Kibler Woodsrunner .54 Kit Assembly

[Broadhead]

I just received a Kibler Woodsrunner kit in .54 caliber. Everything appears to be top notch quality and very well packaged. Ordered standard maple stock and am impressed with the curl and grain throughout. I've watched all of Jim's videos online and have taken detailed notes throughout. I ordered iron nitrate for the wood stain but have not decided on wood finish or metal finishing solutions. Does anyone have additional tips or tricks they've used while putting their kit together, things to bear in mind, or wood and metal finishing recommendations?

 

[mgray]

I’d like to know how it turns out. I’ve got the itch to try and build one of these, just not sure if I’m patient enough for all the detail work. Good luck with the build!

 

[Broadhead]

The assembly has been extremely easy. Kibler's videos are extremely helpful, and I got it assembled in a couple of hours. No sanding or finishing of parts was needed at all, other than filing a few pins and the sights to fit. Now need to take everything apart and start sanding.

 

[EdP]

The iron nitrate, historically referred to as "aqua fortis," is a good choice if you want a dark brown stain. It will darken with age/sunlight exposure. Maple doesn't take oil base stains well. Water or alcohol base stains penetrate the wood much better.

 

[Broadhead]

Yeah, I love the look of the iron nitrate so that will be my starting point. I was going to use the Permalyn Sealer for the wood finish.

 

[FrontierGander]

Go slow, be patient, be smart if unsure, ask for help along the way. Take pictures of the "problem " area to get the best help response.

 

[Broadhead]

Update on finishing materials: I gave Kibler a call to discuss options for metal finishing. They recommend the JAX Black Darkener for all metal pieces and JAX Brown for all Brass pieces. I am going to go that direction for the metal/brass. After reviewing many different sites for stock finishing, I've decided to go with Jim Chambers oil finish. I called Jim's shop to order the finish and they're closed for two weeks due to a shop move to a different state. Not sure what that's all about but hopefully no change in the product(s).

 

[Broadhead]

One lesson I've learned already is the rear sight looks like it needs to be filed down more than it actual does and/or a file removes more material with one swipe than I expected. Hit it with a couple swipes of the file and took off too much material. I could probably take a punch and flare out the material to fit snug but a lot of folks say the stock sight is too low and Kibler offers a tall sight that I ordered to replace it. A learning experience none the less.

 

[wyodan]

When do we get to see a pic of this? I wouldn't mind seeing progression pics either, but really want to see your final product.

 

[2Stamp]

I have barrels I've left "in the white", rust browned, cold blued, and a rust blue I once did on a percussion ML barrel. Essentially you use a good rust brown solution (works best if you induce moisture to get a good rust brown going, scrub the rust scale off, then repeat), do that a couple times to get a good even rust brown color. Then, you submerge the barrel in a trough with boiling water and leave to 20-25 min if memory serves. Finished product is a very durable dark finish that doesn't have the high gloss shine of other bluings (of course that also depends on how polished the metal is when you finish it).

 

[Stalker69]

Pictures of your progress, would be greatly appreciated. I want one, but I want a hawken style, Kibler don’t offer it. Like seeing how others are doing theirs though.

 

[30338]

Kibler is rolling out a Hawken kit in a year or two. Probalby no lefty but a buddy has several very nice Kibler kits he has done. Like to see a finished pic too.

 

[Stalker69]

Kibler is rolling out a Hawken kit in a year or two. Probalby no lefty but a buddy has several very nice Kibler kits he has done. Like to see a finished pic too.

That’s what I’ve heard, not sure I have 2 years though.

 

[30338]

One lesson I've learned already is the rear sight looks like it needs to be filed down more than it actual does and/or a file removes more material with one swipe than I expected. Hit it with a couple swipes of the file and took off too much material. I could probably take a punch and flare out the material to fit snug but a lot of folks say the stock sight is too low and Kibler offers a tall sight that I ordered to replace it. A learning experience none the less.

If you ever want to burn some black powder, I'd like to see that rifle in person sometime. Have a range I bet we can get on just east of town.

 

[Broadhead]

Here’s a few progress photos showing unboxing, assembly, and staining with iron nitrate.

 

[Broadhead]

For those that plan on building a kit, I would not recommend using files or coarse sandpaper to polish the brass unless there is a lot of machine marks you need to get off. I started with a file and 80 grit and spent more time getting those deep cuts out than I did anything else. I would recommend starting with 150 grit sandpaper wrapped around a file, then progress to 220, 320, and 600 grit sandpaper. Granted, I'm not going for a glossy shine since I'll be adding patina anyway but I think the sandpaper route saved a lot of time. I'll post some brass photos once I'm finished with it all.

 

[Broadhead]

If you ever want to burn some black powder, I'd like to see that rifle in person sometime. Have a range I bet we can get on just east of town.

That would be awesome! I'm probably a little over a month out from finishing since I have to wait on the wood oil and find time to finish.

 

[jayhawk]

These guns were typically finished “in the white” meaning that they cleaned the metal then left it. No bluing or browning.

However, a good look is to progressively file/sand the metal to a polished appearance. Then apply a cold blue solution and rub it back with a very fine scotch brite pad. this makes it look grey and helps tone down the shiny metal

 

[mgray]

That would be awesome! I'm probably a little over a month out from finishing since I have to wait on the wood oil and find time to finish.

What will the wood oil look like? Glossy like a varnish, or more subtle, like a matte finish?

 

[Broadhead]

These guns were typically finished “in the white” meaning that they cleaned the metal then left it. No bluing or browning.

However, a good look is to progressively file/sand the metal to a polished appearance. Then apply a cold blue solution and rub it back with a very fine scotch brite pad. this makes it look grey and helps tone down the shiny metal

The JAX metal darkener is supposed to do just that. The rifle will be used for hunting, so I don't want it shining out in the woods. That's the same process Kibler uses for his rifles as well.