WTB Just Got A new Tikka T3x 7mm prc Looking for input/upgrades
- Thread starter Peregrina
- Start date
echampion8
WKR
Any trigger spring if you want a lighter trigger. Not necessarily needed. Sterk bolt handle. ARCA rail. Sky is the limit. Just depends on budget and overall objective for the rifle.
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echampion8
WKR
I like area 419 rails and rings. Top notch products. UM rings are pretty nice as well.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
right on thank you for the input
- UnknownMunitions Tikka rings
- vertical grip
- back the factory spring to lowest setting if you want it lighter. Do not change the spring.
Shoot the crap out of it. Barnes 160 LRX is what my 7PRC liked.
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Im not to picky on what I use I just want the best option available
right on thank you man. Did ya use Muzzle break?
Here's the "stages" of Tikka upgrades.... I've been through this, and it will reduce the amount of extra purchases you have to make. I'm on stage 3 of my 5th Tikka.
Stage 0 is to upgrade your scope to a SWFA, Maven RS1.2 MIL, or a Nightforce.
I don't have any recommendations on muzzle brake... except move to a non-commie state and get one of those magical cans.
Stage 1, "building a rifle good enough for 99% of hunters":
UM Tikka Rings - wait for July 4th sale as they'll probably be 10-20% off. Get 30mm MEDIUM height.
SRS Hunters Rail - again, they should go on sale. Get the long for the Tikka factory stock.
Tikka vertical grip
DIY cheek riser out of some sort of foam, double sided tape, and athletic tape. I use an old thin yoga mat for the foam.
Tikka trigger spring - optional but a cheap add-on with the UM rings. Makes your trigger break down to like a pound. Or you can screw it all the way in, and it is about the same as the lowest factory setting.
Stage 2, "turns out I'm part of the bottom 1%":
Upgraded bolt handle - there's lots of good options depending on what you like. I've used the Lumley titanium ones on my lightweight builds.
Rokstok, McMillan Mountain Tracker LR, XLR Element 4.0 MG, or MDT HNT26 (arca folder, don't even consider the other versions) - take a minute here to think about your future rifle before buying a chassis. You are locked into short or long action in the XLR or MDT. So, if you think there's ever a chance you step down from the 7PRC to a 6.5PRC, 6UM, 6CM, or something else short action (like many do), you will want to go with one of the stocks.
(sell factory stock above)
Stage 3, "how much money can I sink into a factory Tikka?":
UM action and bolt milling + nitride (Cerakote is a cheaper alternative, but nitride is better)
Maybe even throw in fluting the factory barrel
Stage 4, "I've received a critical diagnosis, soooooo eff it":
Rinse and repeat with a 223 trainer and 6CM
Stage 0 is to upgrade your scope to a SWFA, Maven RS1.2 MIL, or a Nightforce.
I don't have any recommendations on muzzle brake... except move to a non-commie state and get one of those magical cans.
Stage 1, "building a rifle good enough for 99% of hunters":
UM Tikka Rings - wait for July 4th sale as they'll probably be 10-20% off. Get 30mm MEDIUM height.
SRS Hunters Rail - again, they should go on sale. Get the long for the Tikka factory stock.
Tikka vertical grip
DIY cheek riser out of some sort of foam, double sided tape, and athletic tape. I use an old thin yoga mat for the foam.
Tikka trigger spring - optional but a cheap add-on with the UM rings. Makes your trigger break down to like a pound. Or you can screw it all the way in, and it is about the same as the lowest factory setting.
Stage 2, "turns out I'm part of the bottom 1%":
Upgraded bolt handle - there's lots of good options depending on what you like. I've used the Lumley titanium ones on my lightweight builds.
Rokstok, McMillan Mountain Tracker LR, XLR Element 4.0 MG, or MDT HNT26 (arca folder, don't even consider the other versions) - take a minute here to think about your future rifle before buying a chassis. You are locked into short or long action in the XLR or MDT. So, if you think there's ever a chance you step down from the 7PRC to a 6.5PRC, 6UM, 6CM, or something else short action (like many do), you will want to go with one of the stocks.
(sell factory stock above)
Stage 3, "how much money can I sink into a factory Tikka?":
UM action and bolt milling + nitride (Cerakote is a cheaper alternative, but nitride is better)
Maybe even throw in fluting the factory barrel
Stage 4, "I've received a critical diagnosis, soooooo eff it":
Rinse and repeat with a 223 trainer and 6CM
I did, but then pulled them off. Got some info that it is almost impossible to get to a "non damage" decible level with a break, even with double ears. I'd rather deal with the recoil than go deaf. Just one opinion though. MB does make is more shootable. Maybe, one day, we may get to use can's in this state. Probably not, but a guy can dream.
I am here, with the exceptions (and why) below:
- Rail: Make sure you will use it. I have the trinity rail on my RokStock, but never use it. Got bare stocks after that one.
- Trigger spring: Read up on Rokslide about this. Doing this MAY cause some ND's down the road. I swapped mine, then swapped them back. Make sure you research BEFORE you do this.
- Chassi or No? I have a XLR and have run my 7PRC and my 65 CM in it (just got the longer bolt stop). I have it up for sale now. I hunted with it last year, and I hated it. Great for NRL, sucked to carry while hunting. Just my $.02
- Don't mill/flute: More places to get crap stuck
Agreed on the items I forgot: Bolt handle, and clone in a 223
Haha right we can only wish and dream
And now with the HPA out of the reconciliation bill chances are again down to essentially zero.
I have a pretty good collection of Tikka's and they all shoot well from the factory, but there are things to improve them, and in my opinion here they are.
First and most importantly... swap the factory bottom plastic with a quality metal one. The best ones on the market are Water's Rifleman, however Lumley has really nice ones as well for a more budget friendly option, and theirs also come with a pillar bedding kit that are super easy to install... I personally like the Arctic version of the Lumley BM's with the larger trigger guard. Mountain Tactical is overpriced hype to me. More expensive than the other two and nowhere near as nice.
Two, pillar bed the factory stock. It is cheap, easy to do and really makes a difference in consistent groups
Three, adjust the trigger to where you like it. It is easy to do with the set screws and there are plenty of YouTube videos on it. Tikka's factory triggers are very nice for factory triggers and can be shooter adjusted, I'm not going to say they are Triggertechs but they are nice, and there are better things to put your money towards if you're happy with it.
Four, upgrade your magazines. Although, I've never had issues with factory mags for most chamberings, aftermarket mags are just so much nicer. Here again, Water's Rifleman hands down has the best ones out there. With an upgraded bottom metal and mags, the rifle will feed and cycle much more smoothly and the mags lock up tight.
I do all of this to every Tikka I own immediately now and there is a noticeable difference from factory.
For your rings, there is a lot of options out there for quality rings. Institute a budget, and go from there. If it was me and I was investing in top of the line rings, I'd invest in better and more reliable glass than Vortex. I don't mean to rag on what a guy has, but the only good thing about Vortex is their warranty and a guy will need it. There is a lot of nice glass on the used market right now for really great prices.
First and most importantly... swap the factory bottom plastic with a quality metal one. The best ones on the market are Water's Rifleman, however Lumley has really nice ones as well for a more budget friendly option, and theirs also come with a pillar bedding kit that are super easy to install... I personally like the Arctic version of the Lumley BM's with the larger trigger guard. Mountain Tactical is overpriced hype to me. More expensive than the other two and nowhere near as nice.
Two, pillar bed the factory stock. It is cheap, easy to do and really makes a difference in consistent groups
Three, adjust the trigger to where you like it. It is easy to do with the set screws and there are plenty of YouTube videos on it. Tikka's factory triggers are very nice for factory triggers and can be shooter adjusted, I'm not going to say they are Triggertechs but they are nice, and there are better things to put your money towards if you're happy with it.
Four, upgrade your magazines. Although, I've never had issues with factory mags for most chamberings, aftermarket mags are just so much nicer. Here again, Water's Rifleman hands down has the best ones out there. With an upgraded bottom metal and mags, the rifle will feed and cycle much more smoothly and the mags lock up tight.
I do all of this to every Tikka I own immediately now and there is a noticeable difference from factory.
For your rings, there is a lot of options out there for quality rings. Institute a budget, and go from there. If it was me and I was investing in top of the line rings, I'd invest in better and more reliable glass than Vortex. I don't mean to rag on what a guy has, but the only good thing about Vortex is their warranty and a guy will need it. There is a lot of nice glass on the used market right now for really great prices.
Right on thank you for the advice.
Forget the brake and go suppressor. Lighten factory trigger, Vertical grip and Limbsaver recoil pads are the first things to happen to my Tikkas. They have all shot very well with just those simple mods. In anything bigger than a 308 the recoil pad is a must. Not sure what it is about Tikkas but they kick like a mule.
Right on thank you but unfortunately I can not have a suppressor due to living in beautiful commiefornia
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