Issues tuning Hoyt Spyder 30

aron

WKR
Joined
Dec 27, 2012
Messages
539
Location
North Dakota
I was working on tuning a Hoyt Spyder 30 and am looking for some ideas on whats going on. Broadheads impact left of field point and bare shaft impacts slightly further left of broadhead so I started adding in twists to the right yoke and remove from the left. I ended up adding 4 twists in the right and removing 4 in the left. When checking pre cam lean with an arrow on the left side of the top cam, it does not cross the string. I removed twists from the right and added back to the left to to get the pre lean arrow to cross the string around the d-loop. This put 1.5 twists in the right and removed 1.5 twists in the left (from factory settings). I then started moving my rest to the left and I can get the bareshafts tuned with field points in doing so but when I measure the center shot, it is just shy of 15/16" and pushes my sight housing so far left that the dovetail is only held in with less than half of the dovetail groove. Am I better off putting centershot back to 13/16" and live with having a +5 twist on the right/-5 twist on the left and not worry about the pre cam lean not crossing bow string? Thoughts? Ideas?
 
Whenever I have troubles the first thing I check to make sure ata and brace are in spec. Next would be to check that draw stops are hitting at the same time. Then worry about cam lean. And lastly shoot through paper to get knock point and rest issues handled.

I haven't shot Hoyt for a few years, but hands down the most common issue I see is that they are out of time.


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ATA: 29 1/2" (spec 29 3/8")
Brace Height: 6 5/8" (spec 6 1/2")

I got new strings put on month ago and the timing was checked at that point.
 
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Put new limbs on mine about 1 month ago. FP's were kicking way right and adjusted yokes to have no cam lean. Cleaned right up.

I wouldn't worry about bare shaft tuning at all and check to make sure center shot and draw weight are in spec since cams are timed.
 
I'm not so worried about the bare shafts being perfect. The bare shafts however magnified the issues over broadheads and it is much more convenient for me to shoot bare shafts at the archery range versus broadheads. I figured if bare shafts were good then broadheads should be as well.
 
check timing again, those strings (cables) will stretch. Typically if it bare shafts then a broadhead will fly, IMO. every bow ive owned has had cam lean (OD Binary cam) and they would all shoot a fixed blade, or any broadhead out to 80 or 90. They might start to drop off but left and right stays good. Might be a torque issue in your grip, idk. I always set the center shot and do the rest with cables from there. Im not a Hoyt guy though.
 
That's a good point. Make sure you have 200 arrows through your new string first.


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Double check the timing again as said above.

Also - because they're aftermarket strings, it could be that the yoke lengths are a little off and you need more / less twists. But, you need to be careful if you untwist too much if you don't have any twists in the yoke you're untwisting or just start twisting it the other way.

Cam pre-lean can be a little different for everyone depending on your grip. On my current hoyt - it actually tuned different for me depending on whether or not I was wearing a merino glove or not because of the way the grip settled in my hand. (Side story - that's why I took off the grip and wrapped the riser in hockey tape....)

Personally, I'd get the draw weight where I want it using the buss cable, bow in time using the control cable, rest level through the center of the berger hole, centershot with arrow down the middle parallel to the riser, and then twist / untwist the yoke legs until I was getting good bare shaft / fixed blade flight. With a bow with yokes, I only adjust my rest for real fine tuning after the yokes get me almost all the way there.
 
Thanks guys. I think part of my problem was my grip and follow through. I got center shot back to where it should be and started changing my grip slightly and making sure I have good follow through. That seemed to clean it up and get bare shafts close. Now onto broadheads.
 
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