Is it best to verify bullet drop at 100 yard increments or is 600 yards good enough?

Elite

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I want to verify my MOA adjustments and was wondering if shooting at 600 yards and averaging the group is sufficient or should I do 300-600 in 100 yard increments ?


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Use this to get started, then make adjustments based on real world DOPE.


Do you have a rangefinder with an app you can input your drops and BC info into? Like the Leica 2800? If not I recommend you do.
 

199p

Lil-Rokslider
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I always try and have a few data points to work from but at least 2 is better then 1 and 4 is even better.
 

IDVortex

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I zero at 92 yards, read a few posts on Rok and I'm good to 1000.
Weird. I did a 75 yard sight in and I'm shooting out to 2000 yards and making dimes on paper.


Gun is sighted in at 100, but have shot out to 400 and 600 to confirm my speeds and my bc's. More data is better than assuming.
 

BCD

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I'm far from an expert but I would definitely shoot at 100 yard increments all the way out to my max.
 

PineBrook413

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If you are looking to zero and true up the rifle to build a chart. Then all you need is a rock solid zero with 10 shot minimum.

Then head down range to true up either just before transonic (1350fps) if you have a long enough range or whatever the max range you want to hunt at. Shoot 10 rounds at your max range and confirm the dial it took to center up on that target. You are now done. Adjust MV to true up your chart.

In my case can shoot 100-1000 yards so if its a rifle that stays above transonic out to 1000 i'll true up at 1000 or 950 depending on which targets are clean. If it’s something like a 223/5.56 I'll true up at 700-800 due to bullet speed dropping near 1350fps.
 
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croben

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You won’t regret getting more time on your gun, especially when the time comes to make an ethical shot on an animal. Put the time in now.
 

SloppyJ

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From my limited experience, 700 or so is where I started seeing some variability with my balistics solution. It's going to depend on everything you're running though.

Use what you have but why not get multiple data points? Zero at 100, true at your longest range and then verify your elevation working back.
 

chicoredneck

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You want at a minimum 3 points to confirm zero and drop. You are modeling an arch. You can be right on at two points on the arch but be off in the middle. Draw it on paper and you will see what I mean.

I zero at 100, confirm at 350, 600, and 800, then finally at 1200 yards if the conditions allow (no wind/ mirage) for a good confirmation. Your final point should be at least as far as you are comfortable shooting at animals in the field.
 

PineBrook413

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While it is always good to shoot more rounds and verify your dope chart works at various ranges its not a required step to have a verified and properly trued rifle.

If you actually have a real zero @ 100 yards with 10 rounds MINIMUM even better is 20 or 30. And then you true a distance close to transonic as possible (or your max hunting range) again with a large group size 10+ you will be +/- .1-.2 mils everywhere between your zero and your trued distance or damn close.

This all hinges on the fact that you have a REAL zero and a scope and rifle system that holds zero. And lastly that you have an accurate range on your truing target. Just my .02
 
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I used that hornady app and it's pretty good, I also shot every 100 yards cause to me that was easiest.
 

Antares

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While it is always good to shoot more rounds and verify your dope chart works at various ranges its not a required step to have a verified and properly trued rifle.

If you actually have a real zero @ 100 yards with 10 rounds MINIMUM even better is 20 or 30. And then you true a distance close to transonic as possible (or your max hunting range) again with a large group size 10+ you will be +/- .1-.2 mils everywhere between your zero and your trued distance or damn close.

This all hinges on the fact that you have a REAL zero and a scope and rifle system that holds zero. And lastly that you have an accurate range on your truing target. Just my .02

I agree with this completely. In OPs case, 10 shots at 100 and then 10 shots at 600. That’s as much time as I would put into shooting for DOPE.

Some of the comments equating a simple approach to collecting trajectory data (above) with a low round count are funny. I love shooting, I just don’t love shooting groups at the range, or shooting at the range in general.
 

Reburn

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If you are looking to zero and true up the rifle to build a chart. Then all you need is a rock solid zero with 10 shot minimum.

Then head down range to true up either just before transonic (1350fps) if you have a long enough range or whatever the max range you want to hunt at. Shoot 10 rounds at your max range and confirm the dial it took to center up on that target. You are now done. Adjust MV to true up your chart.

In my case can shoot 100-1000 yards so if its a rifle that stays above transonic out to 1000 i'll true up at 100 or 950 depending on which targets are clean. If its something like a 223/5.56 I'll true up at 700-800 due to bullet speed dropping near 1350fps.

This is the way.

I walk mine back in every 100 yards with a couple shots after I true at 1000. Mostly everything lines up.
I did have one 257 weatherby act wonky. Dont know what the issue was as it kicked like a mule so I sold it.

Worth noting I have a private place to shoot out to 1150 and its also where I practice so its not "range time" in the strictest sense.
 
OP
Elite

Elite

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Thanks for all the input. I shot a 5 round group at 500 yards not accounting for wind. I think I’ll leave the ballistic data alone. Biggest spread was 4.4”

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