IRON WILL TUNING ISSUES?

[Amincey34]

Not sure if it’s me or not. Having a hard time with my IW solid 125’s shooting 70lbs at a 29inch draw arrow is a 260 spine with wrap and vanes. Running brass Easton inserts for 50grn internal.
Here’s my issue past 30 the iron will
Hit high right consistently. While the mechanical im shooting and field points are perfect. Have pictures below. Checked paper tune and shooting darts. What else should I look at?

Above is iron will on right field point left @30

Above is sevr mechanical at 30 with field point

Two field points and IW right at 50

sevr mechanical and two field points at 50.

I’m lost here and not sure what to do? Thanks guys!


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[ResearchinStuff]

paper tune is not the same as broadhead tune, and mech's should fly the same as a field point.

next step is to broadhead tune.

 

[BBob]

Regardless of what paper says (or bare shaft) it's common to have to do additional rest tuning to get exposed blade broadheads to fly with field points. Plenty of info all over the place about how to do broadhead tuning.

 

[houghtonic]

Slightly adjust rest to right and ever so slightly adjust rest down. The broadhead will get closer to the fieldpoints. You will need to adjust the sight a little after they are all hitting together.


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[Bigboone1988]

Like houghtonic said move you rest to the right. I would move the rest to the right and wait on up and down movement until you have left/right figured out.

 

[Amincey34]

Awesome guys. Thanks so much. I was nervous to go moving the rest until I knew that’s what it needed! Thanks so much. Will update once I try this.


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[Zac]

Awesome guys. Thanks so much. I was nervous to go moving the rest until I knew that’s what it needed! Thanks so much. Will update once I try this.


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Tiny tiny amounts.

 

[Ag111]

Slightly adjust rest to right and ever so slightly adjust rest down. The broadhead will get closer to the fieldpoints. You will need to adjust the sight a little after they are all hitting together.


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This guy knows how to tune a broadhead and is the most efficient way to get the result you want. If you want the more complicated way….keep center shot at 13/16th from riser and Twist a yoke cable if the bow has yokes or shim the cams if a binary bow. I’d just move the rest.

 

[Ag111]

One thing I will say as well…. IF you have a cable activated drop away rest like a QAD, you may need to retime the rest while you are adjusting. More of an issue if you had to move the rest up (which you don’t need to do) because the extra tension from the rest cable will un-time your cams potentially. Learned that the hard way.

 

[Amincey34]

Thanks for the input. Soooo I went to the bow shop and checked time again and they insisted on changing out cord that connects drop away QAD to string and now bow is 10 inches low at 30 yards? This a possibility?? I’m lost guys.


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[Ag111]

10” low fp to previous fp or from fp to bh?

 

[Amincey34]

FP TO FP. Losing all patience


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[Ag111]

What bow model? Can you shoot us a picture of an arrow on the string so we can eye ball where you are at with nock point and center shot?

 

[Ag111]

If your FP POI has shifted that is no big deal and the easiest thing to fix (resight in bow). The biggest issue to FP to BH POI. What does that look like after they made adjustments?

 

[cjdewese]

Check to make sure the fletching isnt hitting the drop away now after they changed it out. That would be my 1st guess hitting that low.

 

[Amincey34]

What bow model? Can you shoot us a picture of an arrow on the string so we can eye ball where you are at with nock point and center shot?

Pics to follow Hoyt ventum pro 33 shot great all year till the last 3 weeks


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[Amincey34]

Check to make sure the fletching isnt hitting the drop away now after they changed it out. That would be my 1st guess hitting that low.

How can I fix this?


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[Amincey34]

How can I fix this?


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How can I tell?


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[Ag111]

I shot 100 grain IW solids for the first time a week ago and had excellent flight. It is a very forgiving broadhead from what I can tell. A lot of weekends shooting bareshaft, making small adjustments, letting the new strings break in, more bareshaft, more small tweaks to the DL, rest, etc. it usually takes me 4-6 weeks to REALLY get a bow tuned the way I want it.

It can be frustrating when it doesn’t work as expected but I have found that (for me) it is not a process I can rush. I guarantee you that if you are shooting your bow frustrated you should put it down and pick it up again tomorrow. You have to shoot confidently and relaxed in order for the tuning differences to be evident, if not you are just ripping off poor shots then your poor form that day is what you will see show up on the Target.

 

[Amincey34]

I appreciate that. I’ll
Keep that in mind. This bow has shot darts all year and then the second I started tuning for broadheads seems like it’s all over the place. Makes me not confident in my setup and ability and I need that with archery season so close


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