Iron sights question

[1000yards]

I have recently become interested in hunting with iron sights. The rifle I took out yesterday is a BRNO ZKK chambered in 7x57. Here is my grouping shooting factory Federal 140 partition at 100 yd off a bog pod -about 2.5 in low, and 1.5 in right.




My question is what do I do from here? The options I'm considering are:
>Go hunting and just aim a little high and left, or just aim dead on since I'm already minute of pig.
>Try a different shooting position, because maybe the bog pod is making it shoot low.
>Try out different bullets to see if any will line up better to the point of aim. I can handload and try anything but I I'm going to prefer lighter bullets for this purpose.
>Have a gunsmith adjust the sights.

What do you all think? Anything else I should
consider?

 

[Jason Snyder]

Can’t you drift the rear sight? There’s no elevation adjustment?

 

[1000yards]

Can’t you drift the rear sight? There’s no elevation adjustment?

Pictures of front and rear sights.

 

[Jason Snyder]

You can drift the rear sight in the dovetail. Use a brass punch. I can’t tell on the front sight but it looks like that’s a detent on the front?

 

[1000yards]

You can drift the rear sight in the dovetail. Use a brass punch. I can’t tell on the front sight but it looks like that’s a detent on the front?

The detent on the front allows removal of the front bead, but I don't think there's any way to adjust it.

I just looked up a formula for adjusting iron sights, and apparently to move my point of impact 1.5 in left, I need to move that rear sight 0.0225" left. That seems rather precise for something that's adjusted with a brass punch! Any tips on that? I appreciate the help.

 

[Jason Snyder]

Reference with a feeler gauge?

 

[PanhandlinPat]

The detent on the front allows removal of the front bead, but I don't think there's any way to adjust it.

I just looked up a formula for adjusting iron sights, and apparently to move my point of impact 1.5 in left, I need to move that rear sight 0.0225" left. That seems rather precise for something that's adjusted with a brass punch! Any tips on that? I appreciate the help.

I’m not sure if anyone makes front sight blades for these anymore, but could see if a NECG or Ruger insert would fit. You need one shorter to adjust down. Could also file it shorter but it looks like a bead sight and that would be wonky.

As for drifting the rear, bring your hammer and punch to the field and move it with trial and error. You’ll likely need to move it more than you think, I always do. Get a fine tip felt marker and make a witness mark to see your progress. Alcohol will wipe it clean when you’re done.

If there’s enough flats on the base you could try a Williams dovetail sight pusher. They often mar the finish though, so be careful.

 

[ProRoad]

I was studying this the other day for my Mauser. Yes, you can tinker with this yourself or If you do go the way of the gunsmith, maybe have him put on some new, more modern sights. brownells.com has some modern styles that fit in older barrels but sizing can get complicated quickly.

 

[Cherokeeguide]

Drift the rear sight in the direction you want POI to move.

Front sight is moved in the opposite direction you want POI to shift. So, if you want POI lower, you raise the front sight; if you want POI higher, you lower the front sight.

You can "lower" the front sight by simply holding so that some or all of the bead extends out of the rear sight U-notch when you align the sights. A lot of old-timers with .30-30 lever actions used to do that. Out to 200, they'd use the sights normally. Beyond 200, they'd let some front sight extend out of the U. Notch. With a beaded front, try extending half the bead out of the U notch. If that's not enough, letting the whole thing float above the U probably will be.

Shiny metal on front sight, like a polished brass bead on a more modern rifle, or a German silver blade on a traditional muzzle loader, can cause aiming problems. If light hits the bead from one side, that side will appear brighter, causing the shooter to perceive the bead as being off-center. This often results in horizontal dispersion (hitting left or right of the target). Bright sunlight from directly overhead can make the bead glow or appear sharper. However, intense sunlight can also create glare, making the bead harder to define and sometimes causing the shooter to focus on it too much, causing vertical issues (shooting low).

This is why Marlin ( and others ) used "hooded ramp front sights," to mitigate the effect of light direction affecting POI with the brass-bead front sight.

For this reason, I suggest you try sighting the rifle in with "sight black" on the front sight. assuming it has some kind of meta;;oc bead on it.

 

[1000yards]

Drift the rear sight in the direction you want POI to move.

Front sight is moved in the opposite direction you want POI to shift. So, if you want POI lower, you raise the front sight; if you want POI higher, you lower the front sight.

You can "lower" the front sight by simply holding so that some or all of the bead extends out of the rear sight U-notch when you align the sights. A lot of old-timers with .30-30 lever actions used to do that. Out to 200, they'd use the sights normally. Beyond 200, they'd let some front sight extend out of the U. Notch. With a beaded front, try extending half the bead out of the U notch. If that's not enough, letting the whole thing float above the U probably will be.

Shiny metal on front sight, like a polished brass bead on a more modern rifle, or a German silver blade on a traditional muzzle loader, can cause aiming problems. If light hits the bead from one side, that side will appear brighter, causing the shooter to perceive the bead as being off-center. This often results in horizontal dispersion (hitting left or right of the target). Bright sunlight from directly overhead can make the bead glow or appear sharper. However, intense sunlight can also create glare, making the bead harder to define and sometimes causing the shooter to focus on it too much, causing vertical issues (shooting low).

This is why Marlin ( and others ) used "hooded ramp front sights," to mitigate the effect of light direction affecting POI with the brass-bead front sight.

For this reason, I suggest you try sighting the rifle in with "sight black" on the front sight. assuming it has some kind of meta;;oc bead on it.

Yes, holdover would be manageable if I can fix the windage. The front sight has no bead -same rust blue color as the rest of the gun, and I was shooting in the shade.

 

[nm.otter]

Try a dab of fluorescent model paint on the back of the front blade.

 

[FLS]

That is a replaceable front sight blade. You depress the detent and slide the blade insert foreward to swap to a taller or shorter blade. To raise your impact you will need a shorter blade. They sell square and round inserts.

 

[1000yards]

That is a replaceable front sight blade. You depress the detent and slide the blade insert foreward to swap to a taller or shorter blade. To raise your impact you will need a shorter blade. They sell square and round inserts.

Yes! Do you know who still sells them? I saw that CZ and Numrich had them on their website but they are both out of stock.

 

[nm.otter]

I'd mill a bit off the top off the existing blade.