Insulating a metal building

[Gadjet]

I recently had a 30x40x12 Morton pole building built behind my house for a spare garage/shop. I'm thinking down the road that I would like to insulate and finish the inside. Spray foam sounds like the best way to go but it's pretty expensive. Anyone have any good alternatives that would be less expensive?

 

[Cedarsavage]

I recently had a 30x40x12 Morton pole building built behind my house for a spare garage/shop. I'm thinking down the road that I would like to insulate and finish the inside. Spray foam sounds like the best way to go but it's pretty expensive. Anyone have any good alternatives that would be less expensive?

I have a similar size I’m getting spray foamed next week. I spent a lot of time looking into it and it was the only one that made sense for mine because my studs run horizontal and 19” so regular batting wouldn’t work. Only other realistic option was foam board and the spray isn’t all that much more at least in my area

 

[Beendare]

I have a similar size I’m getting spray foamed next week. I spent a lot of time looking into it and it was the only one that made sense for mine because my studs run horizontal and 19” so regular batting wouldn’t work. Only other realistic option was foam board and the spray isn’t all that much more at least in my area

I think thats accurate. Even the encapsulated fiberglass is not cheap. You wouldn't want to use fiberglass thats not encapsulated unless you rock or sheet the interior which drives up the cost.

You could do the foam board yourself saving labor cost but it won't be as effective as spray foam due to it not sealing well. If you do end up doing foam board, use the cans of foam to seal the edges.

I would avoid the spray foam kits as if you get a bad mix, you can get off gassing and other problems that will have you stripping the foam out- not good.

Do it right the first time...you won't regret it.

 

[jackrabbitfan]

I know this doesn't help your situation, but I had a metal building built. The "insulation" package was considerable cheaper than having it spray foamed post build. On the ceilings they essentially drape huge sheets of insulation and put the roof on top of it. Between the beams it is held up with steel strapping. Somewhat similar on the walls yet slightly different. It was a great way to insulate. I had another steel building that I was pricing insulation post build and didn't like the spray foam pricing. I had hoped that I could buy the spray foam kits in bulk and save but the pricing of the kits essentially offered no savings over hiring it done. In that case I put fiberglass batting between the framing members/steel studs, vapor barrier, and then sheeted it entirely with steel. Turned out nice as well but just time consuming. That was considerably cheaper than having it spray foamed though.

 

[Briant_az]

are your posts 8’ centers?

 

[PineBrook413]

Double bubble with foil is excellent insulation for pole barns. I've used it many times for customers as well on my personal 40x60x16 pole barn. Its not super super high R value but its super easy to install, very durable, doesn't create the same insect and rodent housing like fiberglass.

I'm not a big fan of spray foam. Its an absolute nightmare in the future for renovations, expansions, repairs & finding leaks etc. Just my .02, no perfect answer. Good Luck!

 

[Gadjet]

are your posts 8’ centers?

Yes

 

[Geewhiz]

You could always stick frame between the posts and throw some batts in there but I'm not sure if that would save you any money by the time you bought all the lumber and batts.

I am building a small shop right now. Originally I was going to build it with a post frame but I decided to just stick frame it so I can just throw some batts in when I'm ready to insulate.

 

[Fred@Exterra]

I usually frame up to eight feet, insulate with batt insulation, and sheet with osb. Then I use two layers of 1 1/2 foam (one layer between the girts & one layer over the top). On the roof, I do a layer of foam board on the top of the rafters.

Probably not the best way to do it, but it is fast and reasonably inexpensive… plus one guy can do it in a couple of days.


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[HiMtnHntr]

I built my barn 40x64x15. Ended up ordering custom bats 8x15’. Not fun to hang but much cheaper.

 

[rookieforever33]

I figured I wanted wall to mount shelves, lights, outlets, and pretty women posters. I framed between my posts and added 6 inch batts covered with plywood. Haven't done the ceiling yet but figure frame and plywood again with blown in insulation will be the way.

 

[Briant_az]

One of my neighbors just build a shop/house and used insulation from this website. I tried to talk him into closed cell spray foam because I think it’s one of the best. He ordered this stuff and I helped him install it. I was pretty impressed with it. Pretty easy to install and works really good.
We used the stick pins and washers to install.

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[SBR Sarge]

If you can swing it, save up and do the foam.

We spray-foamed our house (2006 build) and 30x40 metal pole barn (2024 build). Both with the closed cell foam.

It is superb for insulation, and seems to add sound insulation too.

 

[jones3jd]

I had it spray foamed. It does incredibly well for Michigan seasons

 

[sierracharlie338]

Has anyone experienced degradation of spray foam? Curious if shrinking or overall deterioration is something that has to be considered. Looking at building a barndo type house in a few years and trying to get ideas.

 

[grfox92]

You could always stick frame between the posts and throw some batts in there but I'm not sure if that would save you any money by the time you bought all the lumber and batts.

I am building a small shop right now. Originally I was going to build it with a post frame but I decided to just stick frame it so I can just throw some batts in when I'm ready to insulate.

Youre better off in the long run. The only buildings that blow over in the wind are Pole Barns. Insulating, running utilities, doing anything in the future, you are better off stick framed.

 

[Rich M]

We just did open cell spray foam on 14x36 2x4 framed metal building. $1,500 for walls and ceiling. That's a bit cheaper than we could buy other types of insulation material, or even canned spray foam.

We have that tin-foiled bubble wrap under the floor as a moisture barrier and insulation. Can't say if it has done much.

Don't like the idea of anything that could collect moisture behind it - foam panels, FG batts, etc. due to potential for mold. I'm down south and we get plenty of airborne moisture, mold issues are common.

@sierracharlie338 - in my research, did not find anything about foam degradation. Not saying it doesn't happen, but no-one has talked about it. Folks I know had their attics sprayed - floor & ceiling - said it is excellent and they now use the attic as a regular room - this is FL with some significant attic heat in summer.

We'll be putting walls and ceilings up this coming weekend - over the spray foam. Guy came and sprayed the foam between 24-inch spaced 2x4s and then trimmed insulation even with 2x4 width (R-14/R-15) - so we can just hang the walls and ceiling. We need this more for AC than heat but did spend a couple nights there last year with temps in the high 20s. Cold in a tin box - figure the heaters will work better this year with insulation and walls/ceilings.

 

[squirrel]

Just got done with this chore, I put nailers on the inside of the 6x6'sand on the bottom chord of the trusses then OSB and blew in the cellulose stuff. Took a pile of time by myself but its a beautiful thing now its done.

 

[Frozenlead]

Has anyone experienced degradation of spray foam? Curious if shrinking or overall deterioration is something that has to be considered. Looking at building a barndo type house in a few years and trying to get ideas.

Mine has been good, it’s been around 15years. In my garage it’s exposed as the interior is not sheeted, I generally do not heat it either. I have not seen any change in it. In my shop it is covered, but looking in the attic, there hasn’t been any change.

 

[Gadjet]

It sounds like spray foam is the way to go. One problem that I have with foam is the finished look on the inner roof. I'll eventually be sheeting the walls with plywood or OSB. So the walls will be covered, but I was going to leave the trusses open. Just from some photos I've seen on the web, the spray foam looks pretty rough when left exposed.