I'm an Idiot - Hoyt Bow Tuning

[Whisky]

I should mention the rest I currently have on is a biscuit. i will also mention currently when an arrow is nocked and line up the pins with the string, my arrow is pointed in towards the riser quite a bit. I want to roll with the biscuit for hunting season so I hope I can get it to work. When I first got the bow in January it was set up for a biscuit but was giving me weak spine indications. I couldn't get it to go away. Ended up buying a drop away and within 2 arrows I had clean bullet holes in paper. So that is why I have not shot through paper yet, with the biscuit. I seem to chase the perfect tear and never get it. This is why I tried some modified french tuning crap. Normally Darren I like to tune like you, get bullet holes through paper at multiple distances and check BHs, maybe make some FINE rest adjustments then and call her good.

Bow:
S34, #2 cams
72 lbs
28.5 DL
6 5/8 BH
33.75 ATA

Arrow:
Easton ST Epics black, 300
carbon to carbon 28.75"
vanes 3 Blazers - 18
H nock - 9
HP insert - 23

With factory ATA and BH Ontarget says my spine is good. I have yet to run it with the current measured ATA and BH.

 

[Whisky]

Can somebody explain how twisting the yoke legs affect the centershot? I mean mechanically with the bow, what it's changing on there to affect it? Thanks

EDIT: Moves string horizontally I'm sure.

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[Rent Outdoor Gear]

Looks like you've got enough arrow spine. I think you're going to get some inconsistency with a biscuit, just the nature of the beast. Is your center shot similar to when you were paper tuning or are you way different? Did you try bh versus fp after you paper tuned the biscuit?

Call me 801.510.6383

 

[ontarget7]

Yep, your spine will be fine. I would set your centershot 3/4" to a smidgen past off the riser itself, not the rubber.

Then, since you are low with impact point I would adjust to 1/16 nock high.

Keep your cam synch the same with top cam just a touch ahead of the bottom.
Cam lean with the #2 cam I would start with the right side of your shaft just starting to intersect string at nocking point when laying it on the left side of your top cam

Let use no the results when done.

 

[Whisky]

I tried a few diffedrent things, finally got clean tears in the paper with a biscuit. Went to shoot broad heads and the results were horrible. Started making adjustments and things improved some, but not good enough. I ended up cussing a bit, and ripped the biscuit off and put the drop away (TT Smackdown Pro) back on. Paper tuning with the TT started out with a severe right tear. Nock height was 1/8 center shot 3/4 cam lean parallel. I ended up putting 4.5 twists in the right yoke to get her shooting good at both 6 and 20 ft.

Broad head tuning now was not bad. Ended up making one small rest adjustment up and things were looking good. My nock height is probably 1/16th. Haven't measured center shot and I have no idea what 4.5 twists in right yoke leg would do to a initial 3/4" center shot. My cam lean is back to how it came from the factory, pretty severe. That's where it tuned I guess.

I wish I could get the results I want with a biscuit. Probably a combination of shitty tuner, and shitty shooter.

 

[Toneloc]

Top cam sould be VERY slightly ahead, like one twist max.

I would shoot it through paper, then I can tell you what to do... As soon as you tweak your yoke you're going to alter your supposedly good center shot so I'm not sure I'm a believer in the method you used... If centershot IS good and your spine is right, then you should be hitting in line with your FP. My guess is you need to either move the rest in or twist the left yoke, then raise rest or move nock point down.

I use a different process altogether... Eyeball center-shot so the string is in line with the arrow. Set nock height roughly level to 1/8" high.
Shoot bare shaft and fletched shaft through paper to ensure vanes aren't contacting (or use foot powder spray on vanes and rest to show if there's any contact). Start at 6 feet and work back to 18-20 feet as you fine tune it. If you can pinhole a bare shaft at 20 feet through paper, your broadheads are gonna shoot lights out.

Tune center shot with yoke (re-time if necessary). Left tear = twist up left side yoke, right tear = twist right side yoke.
Change rest height or loop height to correct up & down. Easiest tuning rest I have found is the AAE Pro Drop or Freakshow. TT limb driven rests work well too.

Then go check broadheads to FP... I very, very rarely have any difference between BH & FP using this method.

BTW, I know the cam & 1/2 pretty good (~12 years)... and this works every time for me.

I bought a barely used Spyder 32 off Archerytalk a few months back. It was giving me fits to tune till I read this thread... Your method worked like a Charm Darin...Thanks for taking the time to write this up. Like you said, after I got it to pin hole at 20 ft, I have basically no difference between my broadhead and field points. Also my pins have got a lot tighter at long range as my arrow flight has got so much better.

 

[RosinBag]

I would just add, if you are not a huge tuner and your changing strings and cables, do one at a time. meaning, replace your string and make sure it is same length, all your timing marks, draw weight and brace height are back to where you had it. Then do one cable and then the other making sure all is back to spec before moving onto the other. This will eliminate a lot of twisting, un twisting and fighting your tune. This obviously only works if your bow is tuned to start with.

 

[boom]

just read this thread.

i am about to jump off the single-cam "pan" into the double-cam "fire". at least it feels that way.

glad you guys are around to help!

 

[Whisky]

Round two.....Bow is CST. Just got my AAE Pro Drop today and alread looking much better then a biscuit. Eye balled center shot and nock height 1/8.
First shots through paper at 6ft.

Moved rest a hair right and got worse.

Moved back and shot bareshaft at 6 ft.

Then shot bareshaft and FP at about 13 yards.

Moved rest up a hair and shot this bareshaft at 13yds.

And this at 6ft

So I feel I'm getting pretty decent bareshaft flight until I.look at the paper results. What do you guys think from here? Haven't had a.chance to shoot broadheads at distance yet.

Thanks

 

[Whisky]

Another question, how in the heck do you glue rubber to rubber? Got an arrow holder that came with the rest and want to glue it to my shelf that already has that rubber pad down, and have tested 3 different glues with crap results.

 

[Brandon Pattison]

Another question, how in the heck do you glue rubber to rubber? Got an arrow holder that came with the rest and want to glue it to my shelf that already has that rubber pad down, and have tested 3 different glues with crap results.

3M double sided tape?