ILF vs wood struggle

[NoRush24]

I’m sure others have this same issue but just curious where you all land. I’ve shot a few wood bows starting off shooting trad. But more recently shoot a metal riser ilf bow and springy rest, without a doubt giving me my best rounds and shots. As fun as it is to have more accuracy and adjustments. I find myself one the verge of ordering a wood bow, (torn between a Toelke and a widow) but struggle with losing some of the forgiveness and performance of a more modern ilf, and to shoot worse.

 

[ffemt94]

I’ve never shot ILF but the point of me switching to trad was to shoot a wood bow. There’s something special about gripping a wooden bow and they have such character. I’ve got a Tolke Troll right now and absolutely love it.
I don’t think I can venture back into the world of metal risers and non wooden limbs. I guess South does make that ILF set up that’s pretty sweet as well. But I think you have to shoot what works best for you.


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[sneaky]

There's a romance to wood, but let's face it. Metal riser bows are more consistent. There's a reason Olympic archers don't shoot wooden bows. Shoot whatever you like, trad is what you make it to be. Not what someone else tells you it is.

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[NoRush24]

By no means am I trying to define anything. Just curious were other people land on this if they also find themselves to enjoy the accuracy of an ilf but also the craftsmanship and tradition of a wood bow. I guess my real issue is I hate having more than one bow lol.

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

This is where I'm supposed to suggest you buy the Toelke I have in the classifieds, but realistically, the tunability of ILF is always going to make for a more forgiving bow and more consistency shot to shot. I love wood bows, and I'm avoiding ILF like the plague, because I have a feeling I'd wind up losing my soul and selling all my wood bows. I do have a new Black Widow demo bow that feels like it might take my shooting to the next level, so we'll see. If you go with a Toelke at least consider getting the bow bolt option. The extra mass in the riser will help you a lot.

In the end, if you want a wood bow, you need to embrace the fact that there are more efficient setups. But you can still get good enough to kill tons of animals with a lightweight longbow. It's just not quite as easy.

 

[PHo]

Lots of good points here. It just depends on your mind set. For me, the forgiveness, greater consistency, and ability to make micro tuning adjustments of a metal ilf riser and carbon limbs is the ultimate. I, like many others, avoided going ilf for years because of the romance of wood...but when I finally gave in I was pleasantly surprised that the groups I was getting at 40yds with the ilf setup was the same size as my 25-30yd groups with my wood bow. As a bowhunter who gets maybe one opportunity every season I figured the greater accuracy far outweighs having to shoot an “ugly” bow. YMMV

 

[Justin.Medcalf]

I started with just one recurve 11 yrs ago and now have three ILF bows, two longbows, and four wood recurves. Get all of em that ya want and shoot em all!

 

[bjfoxhoven]

This is where I'm supposed to suggest you buy the Toelke I have in the classifieds,

That is an awesome bow. And at my 31”+ draw it would be right in my wheelhouse. Finishing basement now and with student loans I will be waiting a few years until I get myself a nice wood bow like this. Also curious about that black widow demo, I feel like Snyder mentioned something about a black widow in the works.

 

[Beendare]

I'm with you OP. I've tried hard to like the custom wood bows....but then I compare it to my ILFs.....and they just feel so much smoother and are definitely faster/more efficient.

I ended up with a compromise; I hunt with an ILF wood riser off the shelf with the Uukha Vx limbs. Sure I pickup 10+ points on a Vegas round target shooting a metal riser off a rest.....but for hunting this bow is inside a pie plate even at long range.

Stalker Stick bows, Dryad, Morrison- all make some really nice ILF wood risers. I have a Morrison and Dryad.[Dryad has a sale every yr in Nov] ...but would shoot a Stalker in a heartbeat. If they make it for you you can have them drill for a rest- I didn't.

I've shot many of the custom wood bows out there.....nice, but I have to shoot 10# heavier-or more- to get the same performance.

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[Carolina joe]

I know how you’re feeling ... I bought my first ILF bow This year, a Hoyt satori and I can honestly say its The best shooting bow I've ever owned. I recently went to an elevated rest and my Shooting is better than ever . I’ve shot traditional for 35 years and I hate to admit it but the ILF bows Have the clear advantage in my opinion. If you think about it, that ILF is the most custom bow you can get By adjusting draw weight, tiller , limb alignment and even the grip That being said.....I should have my new Wes Wallace mentor the first part of November, I wonder if he would drill a Berger hole for a springy rest

 

[MontanaMarine]

I started my archery journey about 18 months ago. Traditional archery, never owned or shot a compound. Started with a Toelke, and have added a couple Slick Sticks, and a Samick Discovery ILF.

I find I shoot my best with the ILF rig, but it hasn't dampened my interest in the wooden bows at all. The wood bows have something the metal will never have.

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

I've shot many of the custom wood bows out there.....nice, but I have to shoot 10# heavier-or more- to get the same performance.
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At my draw length, I don't think I could source stiff enough arrows with a heavy (I like 60lbs) draw weight ILF... I'm playing with a Black Widow PMA, 43@32" and it is already looking like 340's are going to be a good spine for that bow.

 

[Beendare]

At my draw length, I don't think I could source stiff enough arrows with a heavy (I like 60lbs) draw weight ILF... I'm playing with a Black Widow PMA, 43@32" and it is already looking like 340's are going to be a good spine for that bow.

Probably right........at least in the wood grain carbons. I think the Axis and Bemans only go to 340 in those. Nice that those Axis come 33".

I have to shoot 340's at 31" in my 50# ILF.....at 60# those would be under spined.

 

[oldgoat]

At normal hunting distances, can you really tell that much difference in accuracy? And I don't really buy into the metal ones being more accurate anyways. I like looking down at a pretty bow in my hand and metal ones aren't pretty. I can see higher mass weight making them more forgiving of less than great form.

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

At normal hunting distances, can you really tell that much difference in accuracy? And I don't really buy into the metal ones being more accurate anyways. I like looking down at a pretty bow in my hand and metal ones aren't pretty. I can see higher mass weight making them more forgiving of less than great form.

I can tell the difference between a wood recurve and a longbow at 15 yards, so I'd say yes.

ILF offers more mass weight, faster arrows at the same weight limbs, and the ability to shoot off a raised rest, with a plunger to adjust centershot. All of which makes it much more forgiving of little mistakes in your form. A heavy, 3 piece, wood recurve can gain back most of those things, if the limbs are well designed and it's cut past center.

 

[PHo]

At normal hunting distances, can you really tell that much difference in accuracy? And I don't really buy into the metal ones being more accurate anyways. I like looking down at a pretty bow in my hand and metal ones aren't pretty. I can see higher mass weight making them more forgiving of less than great form.

My groups at 20yds went from a baseball size group to a quarter size group. My arrows were stacking on top of each other, and that was on the very first day I switched to a metal ilf riser. Yes you can tell a difference at normal hunting distances.

 

[sneaky]

At normal hunting distances, can you really tell that much difference in accuracy? And I don't really buy into the metal ones being more accurate anyways. I like looking down at a pretty bow in my hand and metal ones aren't pretty. I can see higher mass weight making them more forgiving of less than great form.

You absolutely can. With a plunger and elevated rest you can dial those arrows in to where you can stack them in at any distance. Metal riser ILF rigs are impervious to weather changes, and they are solid. It's the reason you never see wood riser setups in any major competition. They just aren't going to be as consistent as an ILF rig. They both have their pluses and minuses. For foul weather especially its hard to beat an ILF setup for dealing with the elements. For tuning its super easy to add a little side pressure or take some away and get perfect arrow flight with an ILF setup. It's quick, it's easy, and you can tune a different arrow setup to the bow in very short order.

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[Beendare]

The added mass in the aluminum risers helps for sure....but the big deal is shooting off of a tune-able rest rather than off the shelf.

 

[TomJoad]

Can't help with ILF, no experience there. I don't shoot trad recurve for greatest accuracy, speed, or performance. I shoot for simplicity, connection to history and materials. I'm very happy with my Toelke SS Recurve, it's a joy to shoot with.

 

[PHo]

Can't help with ILF, no experience there. I don't shoot trad recurve for greatest accuracy, speed, or performance. I shoot for simplicity, connection to history and materials. I'm very happy with my Toelke SS Recurve, it's a joy to shoot with.

Absolutely nothing wrong with that. This a perfect example of what I meant when I said it just depends on your mindset.