If you were to start reloading today?

[Gila]

You do not absolutely need a headspace gauge if you use a full length resizing die. But it is a good idea to bump the shoulder back .002” to avoid over working the brass. Annealing every firing would offset the stretching some, but only to a certain degree.

If you are constrained by action/chamber or magazine length then COAL is the only parameter that matters and you wouldn’t use a bullet comparator. However if shooting a heavy for caliber bullet with a high BC, then the CBTO or just CBO parameter becomes important to measure seating depth. That’s where the bullet comparator comes into play. Depends on the cartridge and the rifle.

 

[Luked]

I have been down this rabbit hole also.
I started reloading years ago for mainly handguns. Then got more into the rifles. The first round for me reloading I just bought a RCBS Rock Chucker kit. And it worked fine for what I was doing.
Then life changed and I sold it all off.

Then life changed again and I got back into it. This was about 3 years ago. Then I got where I was shooting a lot and this time I pretty much pieced all my stuff together instead of buying a kit.
Bought a single Stage press. Elect Powder Throw, Better priming tool. Nice case trimmer. Alum funnel to pour powder etc.
At this point I also now have 2 presses set up that are ready to go.
I load for about 8 different rifles as well as about 5 Handguns. I have more stuff now than I did back then, but I knew enough about it to be able to be more selective on what I bought.

The Kits are great to get you started. But you will end up upgrading some of the stuff that is in the kit. And there are a lot of things in the kits that you dont use. I have 2-3 of the case lube trays that have never been used. I use Hornaday One shot spray case lube.
Just small stuff like that. But the Press, powder Measure, and powder throw will be used from the kit.

And honestly that is part of the fun of it, at least for me. Always chasing the next fun shiny thing

 

[Gila]

Lee has some good dies and presses. I bought a Lee Classic 4-hole turret press, no kit. It’s really a progressive press, only the turret moves as there is no base plate with multiple shell holders. A pull of the handle advances the turret to the next station. I have case activation dies for the powder measure. Priming is on press also. To change calibers, just snap in another turret. Turrets go for about $10-12 each. I do not have case or bullet feeders.

If I am doing precision rifle, I just pull the indexing arm and turn the turret by hand to the next station. I also mounted a manual powder measure to the stand. I use two digital scales, thumb trickler on the primary scale. If both scales are within .1 gr of each other, the powder charge gets funneled into the case. When both scales don’t jive, I calibrate and zero both scales. Beam scales are not susceptible to EMI like the digital scales are. For my process, I have found it to be more efficient to dump the powder into all of the cases I want to load in that session. Then move to the press and seat bullets.

One thing I didn’t consider when I started was a bullet puller. You will need one from the start, guaranteed. The hammer type works but if you need to pull a dozen or so, you will probably want to go to a collet die. I have a Hornady which works ok but I have to change the collet for most calibers. If I could find a better one, I would spent the money. I am the odd man out for one shot…I use Redding sizing die wax. One tin lasts forever. I wear gloves when reloading anyway. Some make their own with a lanolin mix.

 

[Cap'n Bruce]

I've recently geared up myself and lots of good advice here. I was patient and bought most of what I have on the second hand market. I think the Frankford Arsenal case prep station in invaluable. If it goes down, I'll likely replace it immediately with the same or similar. I don't have an electronic trickler/scale setup but I would like one.

 

[DaveT1]

If you were to start reloading again today, where would you spend or save money?

I'm sure this subject has been beat down over and over but I want some opinions considering what tools are in the market now. I'm a complete newb to reloading so I'm trying to learn where I can before I make the investment. I have enough brass collected that I want to start considering the process. I'd be loading 3-4 short action cartridges, and 9mm to start with. From the research I've done I understand that a single stage press and hand-primer would be best to start until I have the desire to load hundreds of cartridges in a session. Here is a few general questions I have.

Is a rcbs, redding, or co-ax press much better than the hornady lnl classic or are the single stage presses all comparable? With the hornady rebates it seems like a no brainer to go that route unless the press, or the lnl system is a pain to use.

Would it be worth considering a progressive or turret press for my first one?

Is it worth it to get a chargemaster or autocharge pro and just get used to using that from the start?

Where is it worth spending extra money up front? (things like billet trays, funnels, etc)

I've looked at a few of the kits but it seems like most of the "kit" will get replaced with other things quickly and I already have some mitutoyo calipers. All that said I'm someone who doesn't mind investing in nice tools to make the job more enjoyable.

Rcbs rockchucker kit.

 

[nm.otter]

You do not absolutely need a headspace gauge if you use a full length resizing die. But it is a good idea to bump the shoulder back .002” to avoid over working the brass.

This is kind of a big deal for someone who loads a cartridge for a specific rifle. Under $50, and you could potentially borrow one (for an hour) to set your die.

 

[xringshutr]

Single Stage
Headspace and bullet comparator set
Good dial calipers
Good powder scale

That will get you started well.

 

[TX_Diver]

I like a turret press so I don’t have to mess with swapping dies around.

I have gone back to a powder throw after doing some testing. I am going to post my charge master lite at some point when I get around to taking pics of it. PM me if you are interested in it.

 

[TX_Diver]

I’ve loaded up a few more to compare my harrells to my RCBS Uniflow but haven’t shot them yet. Will update this thread when I get around to shooting them

T

Thread 'Harrells Culver vs Lee Perfect Powder - Super Scientific Comparison'

Jun 6, 2025

Trying to find something faster than my RCBS CM Lite to throw powder with. My RCBS Uniflow works fine for Staball 6.5 and Match, but I got close to +/- .5gr with H4350 (unfortunately I can't find my notes).

The 2 most popular powder throws for stick powders seem to be Harrells (@Carl Ross ) and the Lee Perfect Powder Measure. These powder measures are at complete opposite end of the quality spectrum. The Harrells is a piece of art and costs $240 and the Lee is extremely cheap feeling and cost $22. I didn't know the exact settings I needed to get 41 gr of H4350 (which is what I'd...

• TX_Diver
• Replies: 16
• Forum: Reloading

• 

 

[pbroski]

Don't confuse a Lee turret press with a progressive press. With a Lee turret press, only 1 operation can be done at a time with each stroke of the handle. With a progressive press, as many as 6 or more operations can be done simultaneously with each stoke of the handle. Also, case, primer, and bullet feeders can be added to progressive presses to really speed things up.

For 9mm, (or other pistol or small rifle cartridges), the Lee Six Pack Pro Kit is a pretty good option for less money than other progressive presses. A case collimator and an RCBS lockout die would make good additions.

That being said, it's better to start off with a good single stage press for simplicity.

 

[Gila]

This is kind of a big deal for someone who loads a cartridge for a specific rifle. Under $50, and you could potentially borrow one (for an hour) to set your die.

I bought the entire set of bullet comparators and headspace gauges for $45

 

[dreadi]

My first setup was a Pacific single stage, Rcbs powder drop, an analog powder scale, and a trickler. It's not hard to learn on your own but, it's easier to learn with someone that can teach. The ABCs of Reloading is a good book.

 

[Kimber7man]

RCBS Rockchucker
Redding powder thrower
Creedmoor sports 925 scale
Area 419 funnel and heads
SAC comparator kit
Mitutoyo calipers
Dies of your choice

 

[PaperHunter]

I've been reloading for a little north of 20 years now. I started with a Lee anniversary kit and still use most everything that came with it today. I bought a couple Dillon square deal progressive loaders (one for 9mm and one for 45 ACP) about 5-6 years ago and wondered why I waited so long!

That being said, I would not have wanted to start with a progressive press. After loading thousands (maybe 10's of thousands) of rounds on the single stage, I feel that I have a grasp of what each die does, and how to adjust them. That knowledge and "feel" of the dies was a great help in setting up the progressives.

I have thought about upgrading to a larger progressive press that would allow rifle cartridges, but I haven't made the leap to them yet.

The best purchase I have made in the reloading field has been an automatic powder measurer. I got a RCBS Chargemaster link. I works well and makes loading go faster.

 

[wind gypsy]

If you were to start reloading again today, where would you spend or save money?

I'm sure this subject has been beat down over and over but I want some opinions considering what tools are in the market now. I'm a complete newb to reloading so I'm trying to learn where I can before I make the investment. I have enough brass collected that I want to start considering the process. I'd be loading 3-4 short action cartridges, and 9mm to start with. From the research I've done I understand that a single stage press and hand-primer would be best to start until I have the desire to load hundreds of cartridges in a session. Here is a few general questions I have.

Is a rcbs, redding, or co-ax press much better than the hornady lnl classic or are the single stage presses all comparable? With the hornady rebates it seems like a no brainer to go that route unless the press, or the lnl system is a pain to use.

Never used a hornady press but i bet its fine. Only single stage ive ever owned is a Lee Classic cast which has served me well but they generally get solid reviews from what Ive seen.

Would it be worth considering a progressive or turret press for my first one?

I'd probably go single stage personally if not looking to load 100+ rd batches.

Is it worth it to get a chargemaster or autocharge pro and just get used to using that from the start?

Maybe? I started with a chargemaster. Throwing charges from a measure is a LOT faster and most everyone cant shoot the difference in a practical matter at ethical ranges. Cheaper too.

Where is it worth spending extra money up front? (things like billet trays, funnels, etc)

I dont own any of the fancy trays/funnels. Basic ones work fine. A shell kicker/ejector for a single stage is about the best bang for buck for increasing speed IMO.

Other upgrades worth spending on - 3 in 1 trimming so you can trim/chamfer/debur in one step.

Powder dispensing for speed. Autotrickler is nice in this regard. I'd use a charge master before manually weighing on a beam scale but again, thrown charges are sufficient for most common uses and WAY faster.

I prefer forster FL sizing dies to neck bushing dies and they are less expensive.

 

[SheepCrk]

I’d agree that a good single stage press kit is the place to start for a beginner. I thought the rcbs rebel master kit was probably the best kit on the market but the press and kit are discontinued. Might be able to still find one leftover.

You will likely replace/add plenty of pieces over time, but it’s hard to know what you’ll end up liking when you first start. Lots of ways to do things in the reloading world and we all eventually find our preferences over time.

Any rock chucker will be a solid press that will last a lifetime (or 2) and there are plenty of good presses from other brands also. Buy some good full length dies for your cartridges and start learning imo.

 

[270-300]

Ive been a longtime reader. Decided to join to offer you some encouragement. Handloading is an excellent past time. After i fill all of my tags, get my waterfowl, turkey, and pheasant hunting seasons finished out, often times handloading is the way to enjoy shooting sports when its too windy or snowy to be out predator hunting.

For handloading, its important to understand your end goal.

1 what do you use firearms for?
For me this is hunting

2 what kind of firearms do you use?
Rifles, pistols, shotguns

3 what kind of shooting do you enjoy?
This last year, the highlight of my shooting sports was shooting pheasants, ducks, and geese with my over under. My rifles provided over 200 lbs of meat for the freezer, with 3 shots total. I spent one hour shooting steel with pistols in the last 3 years.

4 what are you looking to achieve with hand loading?
For me, it is all about precision rifle ammunition.

5 how much do you want to spend?
A simple single stage press is the most inexpensive option. This is also the most precise for rifle loading. For components, powder brands and bullet selection vary greatly. Pick the cheapest option that performs in your gun to your standards. Ex, my friend shoots nothing but hornady eldx bullets in his hunting rifle. For me, a speer hotcor shoots clover leafs all day long, as good as i need in a hunting rifle.

6 dont get caught up in the lie more money means gear is better.

7 understand your investing a lot of time and money into making ammunition. You will not make ammunition cheaper than you can buy it. You will enjoy the process and can create precise or commercially unavailable ammunition. A 9mm load of A7 powder with a 147 hardcast bullet in the western powders manual, that makes 410 ft lbs of energy is a great example of this.


8 not everything you touch has to be a handload if your a handloader.

Last year, the larger 2 of my 3 animals were shot with a rifle using inexpensive factory ammunition. Im not sure if i ever will get around to hand loading for that rifle. Currently, i cannot handload that caliber for what inexpensive hunting ammunition costs. I dont need 2 inch groups at 600 yards from a rifle i only use places where i plan 200 yard max shots. Ive never bothered to handload shotgun shells. I cant buy shot for the price of loaded shells. Only exception to this is the guys who were making tss loads years before they hit the market. I really dont care to put the time into imprecise shotgun shells. I buy a case of shells and go shoot pheasants.

I hope this helps you realize your goal before you dive into another expensive hobby.

 

[270-300]

Ive been a longtime reader. Decided to join to offer you some encouragement. Handloading is an excellent past time. After i fill all of my tags, get my waterfowl, turkey, and pheasant hunting seasons finished out, often times handloading is the way to enjoy shooting sports when its too windy or snowy to be out predator hunting.

For handloading, its important to understand your end goal.

1 what do you use firearms for?
For me this is hunting

2 what kind of firearms do you use?
Rifles, pistols, shotguns

3 what kind of shooting do you enjoy?
This last year, the highlight of my shooting sports was shooting pheasants, ducks, and geese with my over under. My rifles provided over 200 lbs of meat for the freezer, with 3 shots total. I spent one hour shooting steel with pistols in the last 3 years.

4 what are you looking to achieve with hand loading?
For me, it is all about precision rifle ammunition.

5 how much do you want to spend?
A simple single stage press is the most inexpensive option. This is also the most precise for rifle loading. For components, powder brands and bullet selection vary greatly. Pick the cheapest option that performs in your gun to your standards. Ex, my friend shoots nothing but hornady eldx bullets in his hunting rifle. For me, a speer hotcor shoots clover leafs all day long, as good as i need in a hunting rifle.

6 dont get caught up in the lie more money means gear is better.

7 understand your investing a lot of time and money into making ammunition. You will not make ammunition cheaper than you can buy it. You will enjoy the process and can create precise or commercially unavailable ammunition. A 9mm load of A7 powder with a 147 hardcast bullet in the western powders manual, that makes 410 ft lbs of energy is a great example of this.


8 not everything you touch has to be a handload if your a handloader.

Last year, the larger 2 of my 3 animals were shot with a rifle using inexpensive factory ammunition. Im not sure if i ever will get around to hand loading for that rifle. Currently, i cannot handload that caliber for what inexpensive hunting ammunition costs. I dont need 2 inch groups at 600 yards from a rifle i only use places where i plan 200 yard max shots. Ive never bothered to handload shotgun shells. I cant buy shot for the price of loaded shells. Only exception to this is the guys who were making tss loads years before they hit the market. I really dont care to put the time into imprecise shotgun shells. I buy a case of shells and go shoot pheasants.

I hope this helps you realize your goal before you dive into another expensive hobby.

I forgot to add, for what i have in loading equipment i could buy enough ammunition for any 3 elk calibers to last 4 lifetimes of hunting. If i factored in my time in the last 10 years, and instead spent that time working for $15 an hour, I could buy a really nice rifle from a custom builder. Dont think handloading is a money saver.

 

[tstowater]

Reloading/hand loading is done for several reasons: 1. The satisfaction of doing it yourself. 2. Fine tuning a load for your rifle. 3. Volume loading for a target or varmint shooting rifle(s). 4 loading for cartridges that are not commercially available except for specialty or custom loading places.

I'm going to load probably close to 1000 220 Swift, a 1000 20VT, 600-800 20 Practical and maybe 500-1000 assorted other cartridges in the next 60 days. The cost savings alone on the 220 Swifts would pay for a decent setup let alone being able to use the 20 Practical and 20 Vartarg as neither is factory available.

If I was just going to bang a bunch of low cost 223/5.56 and 9mm or a cartridge that is not high volume and don't want load, then factory may be a suitable option. YMMV.

 

[Batsonbe]

You can produce high quality rounds with the cheapest equipment. The trade off is setup, the rate at which you can make the rounds, and some would argue consistency. I’ve upgraded stuff over the years that have made reloading more enjoyable. I enjoy tuning loads and guns and being a part of my friend’s successes.