I Need a Scope--Explain it to me like I'm 5.

I like my LRTS scopes. One thing to be aware of, at least with the 3-12 LRTS is that the non-illuminated version has a finer cross hair than the illuminated one. Pros/cons to that but for hunting the reticle on the illuminated version is probably preferable.

Anyone know if that is true on the LRHS versions, that there is a difference?
Good point, and yes it's true of the LRHS versions as well. Great scopes. Then again, I've had great luck the past several years with Arken EP4 and 5, Athlon Helos BTR, and Athlon Ares.
 
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How deep down the rabbit hole would you like to go?

6.5 PRC would give you all the performance you need (and more) for half the recoil and less expensive ammo. I think that's a fairly mainstream opinion here. It also (check me on this) uses the same bolt face as the .300wm and so would be easy to have someone swap the barrel.

Either way you want to put a lot of rounds downrange if you intend to shoot at distance. That's expensive and painful with a magnum. Consider an identically configured .223 trainer if it's in the budget? (Also a great deer rifle inside about 450 yards and just damn fun to shoot).

Long story short you might want to step back and consider the whole use case before you fully commit to the .300wm.
6.5 PRC takeoff barrel is $100 from UM, could have them thread it before sending it to you as well.
 
Hell yeah, man comes for a scope recommendation and will leave with not only a scope but a new rifle.

Seriously though, you're not doing yourself any favors with the 300wm.
 
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I’m Not big on turret scopes. Turrets are too time consuming and bulky on western hunts. They don’t fit into a scabbards well (on horse or four wheeler). When the elk run from 200 out to 500 yards in a matters of (what seems like) seconds it takes time to come off the glass dial the scope and re-acquire target picture. I’ve got a cheap bushnell on my 6.5 creedmore and I’ve killed plenty of elk out to 500 yards. Don’t drop all your cash on glass and spend some time behind whatever it is you buy to get comfortable arrange before coming out west.
 
I’m surprised no one has mentioned a fixed 6x SWFA. If that isn’t the easy button I don’t know what is. Take the savings and buy a 223 and another 6x SWFA and put a couple thousand rounds through it and you’ll be 100x better shot than any other option.
 
Forget turrets, they’re just another failure point. i’ve seen more missed opportunities and failed shots result from people, twisting knobs, then almost anything else.
The top hunting scope I would recommend to you would be a Trijicon AccuPoint 3-9x40 green mil-dot. You should spend time practicing from field positions, not the bench, from point blank to 600 yards. Get yourself a 10 inch steel gong, or use a paper plate. Whatever is the distance you can consistently make first round hits at is the maximum distance you should be shooting at game in the field.
 
How far are you planning to shoot? You don't need a target scope for 300 yards with a 300WM. Wind will mess with you, but elevation is chip shot simple at that distance.

Are you willing to buy enough 300WM ammo to learn to shoot it well? Most people tap out at anything more expensive than 6.5CM. .308 is cheaper.

I'd set up a deer rifle and make do with it if the Western hunt ever actually happens. If you think of Schmidt & Bender as a Night force, but with better glass for low light deer hunting, then your budget will pick your scope. Illumination is hard to live without once you've experienced good illumination.

Rock solid mounts are as important as the scope.

Do not go over 4x on the low end. While daydreaming happens at long range, actual hunting often happens up close.
 
Hell yeah, man comes for a scope recommendation and will leave with not only a scope but a new rifle.

Seriously though, you're not doing yourself any favors with the 300wm.

I mean, you're not wrong! But that takeoff barrel is less expensive than the UM Tikka rings, and barely more expensive than a single box of factory . 300WM ammo.
 
When the elk run from 200 out to 500 yards in a matters of (what seems like) seconds it takes time to come off the glass dial the scope and re-acquire target picture.
Dialing for elevation is a non-issue with a mil-based scope and quick drop. Keep your eyes on the prize and count the clicks.

Dialing for wind is another matter (and protruding side turrets suck).
 
I only knew because I was going to post a link to it on SWFA's site to be a smart ass myself.
For some odd reason i thought I had seen it forsale. I must've over looked it by being excited about being a smart ass. But hey, I'm just the local dumb ass. 😂
 
What do you want from your scope. A Bushnell 3x9 would be fine for 99% of hunters out there. If you are thinking something different, what is it? Do you want to kill something at 200 yards, 500 or 1000+?
Honestly, I don't really know.

I want something that is durable and from a good manufacturer that stands behind their product.

I would imagine 500 yards is plenty far enough. I'm not into the guesstimate the hold over and kentucky windage stuff. I want to adjust the dials and hold dead on.
 
I’m Not big on turret scopes. Turrets are too time consuming and bulky on western hunts. They don’t fit into a scabbards well (on horse or four wheeler). When the elk run from 200 out to 500 yards in a matters of (what seems like) seconds it takes time to come off the glass dial the scope and re-acquire target picture. I’ve got a cheap bushnell on my 6.5 creedmore and I’ve killed plenty of elk out to 500 yards. Don’t drop all your cash on glass and spend some time behind whatever it is you buy to get comfortable arrange before coming out west.
I don't have to come off the glass if the elk runs from 200 to 500 yards. I simple hold for elevation using the hash marks on the reticle. My 300wm is zeroed at 100 so a 500 yard shot would be 3mrad. I'm no Chris Kyle but I can raise the scope until the 3rd hash mark below the center is on the elk.
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How deep down the rabbit hole would you like to go?

6.5 PRC would give you all the performance you need (and more) for half the recoil and less expensive ammo. I think that's a fairly mainstream opinion here. It also (check me on this) uses the same bolt face as the .300wm and so would be easy to have someone swap the barrel.

Either way you want to put a lot of rounds downrange if you intend to shoot at distance. That's expensive and painful with a magnum. Consider an identically configured .223 trainer if it's in the budget? (Also a great deer rifle inside about 450 yards and just damn fun to shoot).

Long story short you might want to step back and consider the whole use case before you fully commit to the .300wm.
The 300 WM was a gift and has sentimental value. It does have a muzzle break, but I will be using a suppressor. I've read that either one will reduce recoil.
 
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