I know a lot about guns but I don't know shit about bows.

[MHWASH]

I'd like to take up archery as a backup to rifle hunting. I'd occasionally mule deer and elk hunt with it. I measured my draw length @27" I'd like to spend ~ $800 for the bare bow. I've heard there's lots of savings to be had by buying used, but considering I know very little about bows, I'd hate to buy the wrong one.

 

[kcm2]

Go to your local bowshop and look on the rack. Last year's models may be in your price range as will some good used ones. And there are a lot of good bows in your price range, just have to see what fits you and shoots well for you. You should have no problem.

 

[Jkr61]

I second the above. Go to a shop and start pulling them back if they have an indoor range even better! Feeling comfortable is the most important thing when it comes to shooting a bow. Every brand at every price will kill but if your not comfortable it’s hard to hit’em.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Probably the most important thing to understand is that dry firing a bow is catastrophic. So never pull one back without an arrow nocked. Otherwise a good shop should set you up without issue.

 

[Jimbee]

I'll echo buy used. Find the bow that was the top of the line bow a few years ago, probably ready to hunt, for a fraction of the price.

 

[etz_cutter]

Have you shot a bow before?

 

[Ehunter56]

Good advice from the guys above. I always say, shoot a bunch of bows, and let the bow pick YOU. One will stand out as the easiest to hold steady, shoot smoothest, draw best, something that makes it stand out for YOU. Never ignore the "sales rack" of used bows. I have 14 bows in my arsenal right now, and only 5 of them were bought new. If a shop won't get a bow reasonably set up for you to try out (at your length, draw weight, have it roughly in tune), head to the next shop. If it's 1/2" too long of a draw, it'll feel wrong, but at the right draw length it may be THE bow for you. If a shop doesn't have time for you, you shouldn't have the money for them.

 

[tdoublev]

If you look through recent used flagships, you can’t go ‘wrong’. It’s like golf clubs - has any technology changed enough to warrant new clubs every single year? No. Will you love one brand and hate another? Possibly. Find one you like and go with that. If you look at used, things to keep an eye out for would be the limbs, cams, and strings. Make sure the limbs don’t have any cracks, chipping, or peeling/flaking. Make sure the cams aren’t chipped either or leaning left or right. I’d just assume you will need to replace the strings and cables for budget purposes but you might get some in good condition on the used bow. You don’t want fraying strings or unraveling servings. And you can’t replace one or the other - if you replace either the string or cables you need to replace the other too. Go find what you like

 

[Mighty Mouse]

You should be able to find lots of 2-3 year old flagship models for $800 bare. Try to find a knowledgeable bow shop that will work with you to figure out what draw length (the rule of thumb formulas based on height/wingspan aren't always accurate) and draw weight fit you best. Factor the cost of arrows, broadheads, release, rest, sight, and quiver into your overall budget; those items can add up quickly.

 

[ShakeDown]

If only someone had a plug and play set up ready to roll…

Mathews VXR 31.5 Ambush Green

 

[rclouse79]

Probably the most important thing to understand is that dry firing a bow is catastrophic. So never pull one back without an arrow nocked. Otherwise a good shop should set you up without issue.

Another thing to consider when buying used. You never know what the original owner did to it. I would rather get a new lower end model personally.

 

[MHWASH]

Have you shot a bow before?

Yes, I hunted with one about 30 yrs ago. My son has hunted archery the last few years.

If only someone had a plug and play set up ready to roll…

Mathews VXR 31.5 Ambush Green

Explain to me the options please. I assume draw weight, but you list the weights with 2 options, i.e. 65# D & 65# C.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Another thing to consider when buying used. You never know what the original owner did to it. I would rather get a new lower end model personally.

Concur, I've had bad luck buying used bows

 

[ShakeDown]

Yes, I hunted with one about 30 yrs ago. My son has hunted archery the last few years.

Explain to me the options please. I assume draw weight, but you list the weights with 2 options, i.e. 65# D & 65# C.

Draw length and draw weight are adjustable by a very easy mod swap. There is a chart available that translates the letter to a DL. I do not have any mods left that would meet your stated DL, if it’s 27”, but they are pretty cheap to buy online. Some shops will swap mods for free.

Not that I don’t want you to buy my set up, but this rig is probably a little more than you need in terms of accessories.

 

[etz_cutter]

Yes, I hunted with one about 30 yrs ago. My son has hunted archery the last few years.

Explain to me the options please. I assume draw weight, but you list the weights with 2 options, i.e. 65# D & 65# C.

Maybe I was in a similar situation as you and was looking for a bow about a year ago. My opinion would be to find a used Mathews V3X or Phase 4 since you indicated a budget of $800. I think you could find these bows under that price.

29" vs 33" - I'm a taller guy and ended up going with the 33" ATA. I wasn't sure with ATA length what I should go for - but was glad I decided and choose the 33" length due to height.

Mathews Switchweight Cams - The V3X, Phase 4 and Lift all allow the user to change draw lengths and weights. So if you haven't shot recently and need to build draw strength then you have an option to increase/decrease.

Sights - Single pin, double, three, five or seven? There's are options out there and would be something you need to see works best for you. I personally like the five pin sight on my bow as it provides options in a hunting scenario. I also don't currently have money available to switch between sights.

Resale Value - Should you not want to continue with archery I think a late flag-ship model bow would retain value. I think a beginner/entry model would be more difficult to sell.

Maybe some others can pitch in on similar type bows from other manufacturer's.

 

[bjack6755]

Try to demo a few at your local shop. It might help you figure out what you’re looking for. There’s a good chance rifle season will be a backup to archery in the future. That’s what happened to me. Archery is really addictive. I agree with a previous post about buying last years model. Buy once cry once.

 

[TuckTruck]

I would check the local shops for last years markdowns on premium bare bows or you can get some pretty good entry level bows fully setup for less than $800. Remember, a premium bow does not a premium shooter make, you may need a couple years of dedicated practicing before you’re proficient enough to shoot an animal. And I would avoid used unless you personally know the seller.

 

[cams]

I lucked out on buying a used flagship bow online. I should have bought a used flagship from a shop instead. Ended up buying a beginner bow for my son from the shop.

 

[psirus7]

Great advice on this thread. I switched from rifle to bow in 2019, but am gonna make 2024 a rifle year. A solid bow shop with NOS is a good bet.

 

[DayBreaker]

I know it's been said, but finding a good shop who will spend the time and let you shoot different models is the ticket. I walked in to get a new bow thinking I was a Hoyt guy after running mine for years, he got me shooting and I left with a Mathews. Turns out the newer Mathews were it for me. Spend the time, you will know when it's the right one.