Hunting Alaska as a Resident?

[Daniel_M]

And please don't judge Alaska by what you see in Anchorage.

Dont mind the vehicle theft and meth problems either.

 

[Beendare]

Fairbanks, year round? I couldn't do it.

I will never forget what a boat captain told me when I asked him what he did in the long dark dreary winter, "I go bowling on Tuesday nights"

 

[BroodBuster]

Many folks can't handle a 16 hour night here in Seattle so I can imagine how much of a struggle it is for folks dealing with a 22-24 hr night.

Ak is certainly not for everyone. I think the substance abuse issues that Ak has to deal with bear that out.

 

[Billinsd]

Many folks can't handle a 16 hour night here in Seattle so I can imagine how much of a struggle it is for folks dealing with a 22-24 hr night.

Ak is certainly not for everyone. I think the substance abuse issues that Ak has to deal with bear that out.

Don't some folks move to Alaska to run away from "lots" of things? I love the more freedom more liberty aspects of Alaska.

 

[VernAK]

Indeed, some move to Alaska to get away from their past but Alaska's PFD and liberal social services has attracted the masses from half way around the world.......and we have a governor that doesn't want to rein-in some of the give-away programs.

Many of these foreign born immigrants aren't as concerned about wildlife preservation and management as are the members of this forum.

The State of Alaska spending per capita exceeds $18K/year when most states are much closer to $5K.

Don't some folks move to Alaska to run away from "lots" of things? I love the more freedom more liberty aspects of Alaska.

 

[Daniel_M]

Indeed, some move to Alaska to get away from their past but Alaska's PFD and liberal social services has attracted the masses from half way around the world.......and we have a governor that doesn't want to rein-in some of the give-away programs.

Many of these foreign born immigrants aren't as concerned about wildlife preservation and management as are the members of this forum.

The State of Alaska spending per capita exceeds $18K/year when most states are much closer to $5K.

Not to mention laws of violent vs non-violent crimes. Newer statues have made non-violent crimes explosive in statistic (theft, vehicle theft, etc) If it isn't nailed down these days, you're at risk. In 2016, 2,117 vehicles were reported stolen to the Anchorage Police. That’s 73 percent more than 2015, and almost two-and-a-half times the number of reports filed in 2012. Law makers way of correcting the overfilled prison system.

Do you have kids? Alaska ranks at the bottom for education, with one of the highest annual costs per kid.

Hunting wise, the opportunities are endless if you have the time to invest.

 

[AKMAN]

I will throw my thoughts on top of the rest with only a skim over them.
Having spent my entire life in Alaska, I have heard all sorts of comments about how incredible it must be to live, and subsequently, hunt in Alaska. Moreover, while there is truly no place like Alaska, it may not be quite as amazing as it seems on the surface for hunters.

First, aside from the few species requiring a guide, to be successful I will spend only about $600-$1000 less per hunt than a nonresident will to hunt here. Air taxis, boat charters/rentals coast the same, gear costs more, and so on and so forth. If you factor in the cost of living, it starts looking nice to visit as a non-resident. Do a quick check on trulia.com for Anchorage: 3 bedroom, 2 bath, tiny lot, many neighbors starts at about $325K. That’s with the 1970s carpet and all...

And just to touch on boat (also plane) ownership, how many fully guided salmon fishing trips could I do for $40,000??? Quick math says over 150 Saturdays, and salmon only run for 10-12 weekends per year. For a Homer/Whittier/Seward boat, plan on $35,000 at a bare minimum. Fully guided halibut is $350-375 a day. Again 100 or so days of fishing. My boat is still kick ass and I love it.

Second, we do not have many opportunities for backyard or fire road hunting. If I lived at our place in Wisconsin, I could hunt after work and weekends from Sept 15th to January 15th for the price of a tag and the things I already buy like archery/firearms/hunting gear.
In Alaska, NEARLY every trip is an expedition. We don't have enough roads to get away from others, so if you want a real back county experience or any reasonable chance at success, you better plan on boating or flying. So, true, weekend hunting opportunities are somewhat limited.

Thirdly, we don’t have spread out seasons. Caribou and sheep are the same (general) time. If you have a normal job, with normal vacation time, pick one. Goat and moose are the same (general) time. Again, if you have a normal job, with normal vacation time, MAYBE you can pick one of these too. Brown bears are spring and fall but you may not like how much time or effort it takes to find one outside a draw unit. Black bears are all the time and most people are only willing to put in enough work to shoot them over bait in the spring. The more desirable hunts take a week+ to do well.

Black bear – 2-3 hour drive + ATV or looong hike
Blacktail deer – 2 hour drive + ocean boat or plane ride
Goat – drawing and/or ocean boat or plane ride
Sheep – long drive + plane ride
Moose – boat ride or plane ride or plane ride + raft
Brown bear – plane and/or boat ride
Bison – yeah right
Predator hunting - plane ride/long snowmachine if you want any real success

Basically, the concept of weekend or frequent hunting isn't all that doable without significant outlays of cash. And while Alaska is amazing, I think most “transplants” are actually disappointed when they get here with regard to the hunting and fishing opportunities.

 

[Ray]

For things to do, there are miles of hiking trails on the hillside above Anchorage. Link

For longer hikes in National Forest see this link look at the Eastern Kenai trials.

If you want to get into petroleum stuff with your masters you should look at some of the service companies like Fairweather. The north slope native corporation subsidiaries were recently outbid for BP work by a out of state/country firm. Link

The strange thing about the recession here is that it is not a real recession - yet. The State legislative branch decided to cut the income source and not cut the expenses, and has spent the last several years try to figure out a solution to the problem. Our state government is having a crisis but the rest of the state is holding steady. The oil industry comes and goes with its needs. With oil value lower than a few years ago they are resetting their needs up here.

 

[Daniel_M]

I will throw my thoughts on top of the rest with only a skim over them.
Having spent my entire life in Alaska, I have heard all sorts of comments about how incredible it must be to live, and subsequently, hunt in Alaska. Moreover, while there is truly no place like Alaska, it may not be quite as amazing as it seems on the surface for hunters.

First, aside from the few species requiring a guide, to be successful I will spend only about $600-$1000 less per hunt than a nonresident will to hunt here. Air taxis, boat charters/rentals coast the same, gear costs more, and so on and so forth. If you factor in the cost of living, it starts looking nice to visit as a non-resident. Do a quick check on trulia.com for Anchorage: 3 bedroom, 2 bath, tiny lot, many neighbors starts at about $325K. That’s with the 1970s carpet and all...

And just to touch on boat (also plane) ownership, how many fully guided salmon fishing trips could I do for $40,000??? Quick math says over 150 Saturdays, and salmon only run for 10-12 weekends per year. For a Homer/Whittier/Seward boat, plan on $35,000 at a bare minimum. Fully guided halibut is $350-375 a day. Again 100 or so days of fishing. My boat is still kick ass and I love it.

Second, we do not have many opportunities for backyard or fire road hunting. If I lived at our place in Wisconsin, I could hunt after work and weekends from Sept 15th to January 15th for the price of a tag and the things I already buy like archery/firearms/hunting gear.
In Alaska, NEARLY every trip is an expedition. We don't have enough roads to get away from others, so if you want a real back county experience or any reasonable chance at success, you better plan on boating or flying. So, true, weekend hunting opportunities are somewhat limited.

Thirdly, we don’t have spread out seasons. Caribou and sheep are the same (general) time. If you have a normal job, with normal vacation time, pick one. Goat and moose are the same (general) time. Again, if you have a normal job, with normal vacation time, MAYBE you can pick one of these too. Brown bears are spring and fall but you may not like how much time or effort it takes to find one outside a draw unit. Black bears are all the time and most people are only willing to put in enough work to shoot them over bait in the spring. The more desirable hunts take a week+ to do well.

Black bear – 2-3 hour drive + ATV or looong hike
Blacktail deer – 2 hour drive + ocean boat or plane ride
Goat – drawing and/or ocean boat or plane ride
Sheep – long drive + plane ride
Moose – boat ride or plane ride or plane ride + raft
Brown bear – plane and/or boat ride
Bison – yeah right
Predator hunting - plane ride/long snowmachine if you want any real success

Basically, the concept of weekend or frequent hunting isn't all that doable without significant outlays of cash. And while Alaska is amazing, I think most “transplants” are actually disappointed when they get here with regard to the hunting and fishing opportunities.

Bingo. There is a reason non-residents have a higher success rate with prized game animals. You either need a decent amount of cash or time off. Sometimes both.

 

[Billinsd]

Indeed, some move to Alaska to get away from their past but Alaska's PFD and liberal social services has attracted the masses from half way around the world.......and we have a governor that doesn't want to rein-in some of the give-away programs.

Many of these foreign born immigrants aren't as concerned about wildlife preservation and management as are the members of this forum.

The State of Alaska spending per capita exceeds $18K/year when most states are much closer to $5K.

That is fascinating, I would have NEVER guessed that!! Alaska is real rich with all those oil revenues, it looks like the politicians have found a way to piss it all away.
Bill

 

[Billinsd]

What really shocked me about Alaska is the density of the game, in general. Much less moose per square mile than Maine, etc. I always was told and believed it was the land of milk and honey. I'll bet a lot don't really consider the dark winter either, most focus on the cold and it is cold there. Many at work have told me I should move there, because I am a hunter. I love elk and mule deer hunting and other hunting that is non existent or not as good in Alaska as the lower 48. It's the same kinda affair I have with Texas, love the people, love the culture, love the conservative politics, the independence, the freedom, but I could not live in Texas either.

 

[Ray]

What really shocked me about Alaska is the density of the game, in general. Much less moose per square mile than Maine, etc.

Alaska is a biological desert unless you are a plant or an insect.

 

[Billinsd]

Alaska is a biological desert unless you are a plant or an insect.

How about the coastal brown bears, salmon, black bears, and sikta deer by the coast? Same thing?

 

[Ray]

How about the coastal brown bears, salmon, black bears, and sikta deer by the coast? Same thing?

A tiny cross section of the millions of square miles of vast emptiness.

 

[Billinsd]

A tiny cross section of the millions of square miles of vast emptiness.

Right, and thanks.

 

[AKMAN]

How about the coastal brown bears, salmon, black bears, and sikta deer by the coast? Same thing?

I din't mention it before, but don't plan on enjoying whitetail like deer hunting up here. I'm always floored driving across parts of the contiguous United States and seeing wildlife every hour. I drive across most of the kenai peninsula each week, almost 200 miles each way; if you keep your eyes peeled you MIGHT see ONE moose every 4th or 5th trip. :/
There are certainly pockets of deer (non-moose) in Alaska but they aren't anywhere you can access them easily.

Another fun fact of recreating in Alaska: 63% of the United State's wetlands are in Alaska. Bring your rubber boots and bug spray! As an aside, only 43% of Alaska is wetland....

 

[Antlers]

I will throw my thoughts on top of the rest with only a skim over them.
Having spent my entire life in Alaska, I have heard all sorts of comments about how incredible it must be to live, and subsequently, hunt in Alaska. Moreover, while there is truly no place like Alaska, it may not be quite as amazing as it seems on the surface for hunters.

First, aside from the few species requiring a guide, to be successful I will spend only about $600-$1000 less per hunt than a nonresident will to hunt here. Air taxis, boat charters/rentals coast the same, gear costs more, and so on and so forth. If you factor in the cost of living, it starts looking nice to visit as a non-resident. Do a quick check on trulia.com for Anchorage: 3 bedroom, 2 bath, tiny lot, many neighbors starts at about $325K. That’s with the 1970s carpet and all...

And just to touch on boat (also plane) ownership, how many fully guided salmon fishing trips could I do for $40,000??? Quick math says over 150 Saturdays, and salmon only run for 10-12 weekends per year. For a Homer/Whittier/Seward boat, plan on $35,000 at a bare minimum. Fully guided halibut is $350-375 a day. Again 100 or so days of fishing. My boat is still kick ass and I love it.

Second, we do not have many opportunities for backyard or fire road hunting. If I lived at our place in Wisconsin, I could hunt after work and weekends from Sept 15th to January 15th for the price of a tag and the things I already buy like archery/firearms/hunting gear.
In Alaska, NEARLY every trip is an expedition. We don't have enough roads to get away from others, so if you want a real back county experience or any reasonable chance at success, you better plan on boating or flying. So, true, weekend hunting opportunities are somewhat limited.

Thirdly, we don’t have spread out seasons. Caribou and sheep are the same (general) time. If you have a normal job, with normal vacation time, pick one. Goat and moose are the same (general) time. Again, if you have a normal job, with normal vacation time, MAYBE you can pick one of these too. Brown bears are spring and fall but you may not like how much time or effort it takes to find one outside a draw unit. Black bears are all the time and most people are only willing to put in enough work to shoot them over bait in the spring. The more desirable hunts take a week+ to do well.

Black bear – 2-3 hour drive + ATV or looong hike
Blacktail deer – 2 hour drive + ocean boat or plane ride
Goat – drawing and/or ocean boat or plane ride
Sheep – long drive + plane ride
Moose – boat ride or plane ride or plane ride + raft
Brown bear – plane and/or boat ride
Bison – yeah right
Predator hunting - plane ride/long snowmachine if you want any real success

Basically, the concept of weekend or frequent hunting isn't all that doable without significant outlays of cash. And while Alaska is amazing, I think most “transplants” are actually disappointed when they get here with regard to the hunting and fishing opportunities.

This pretty much covers it. It took a while to adjust to not being able to do an afternoon hunt, or to hunt before work, or to hunt every weekend of the season - that said, I have adjusted and wouldn't trade my AK experiences for that ability.

 

[kad11]

Wow, these responses have been really helpful. We have some serious thinking to do ...

 

[ben h]

I'm not from AK, but I have been there a number of times and my experience has been similar to Billinsd. I had expectations of seeing moose, bear, caribou all over the place, but in reality the area is unbelievably big and we saw a handful of each, but we flew 300 miles in a float plane so it's really not all that dense. I was on the peninsula and honestly I saw more coastal browns than anything (I think it was the same group we saw on multiple days); only saw one caribou and a couple moose.

The logistics of AK is just expensive too. Like others have said, nothing goes anywhere without $100 bills; so it's not cheap getting around no matter how you do it.

 

[kad11]

I thought I should update this thread because of all the helpful info you guys shared for folks thinking about a move to Alaska. Your guys' insights were too good to get buried...

I ended up finding a stack testing job in my wife's hometown here in Montana and am really enjoying it. Lot's of outside, physical work with a science/ engineering bent at new locations without a ton of overnight travel. Still dreaming of living in Alaska someday, but this is a good fit for us for now...

I was curious what you Alaska residents have been seeing in regards to the discovery of M. ovi in the dall sheep populations? It seemed like that was huge news in the hunting community a year or two ago and I haven't heard anything about it lately.