Hoyt Ventum 33 tuning issues

[Zac]

One thing we found on mine was this has got to be one of the most sensitive torquing systems we have ever messed with. We were getting good flight and paper tears with thumb button releases and awful right tears with Hinge and Resistance Activated Releases. Multiple shooters played with it with the same general results.

Even repeated it with my hooter shooter. It does not like a lot of pressure applied to the back wall. I’m immediately posting mine for sale. If I can’t use 2/3rds of my releases I’m not keeping it. Shoots and feels great but once again Hoyts still need to work out the kinks in tuning.


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This is interesting. I usually shoot with alot of back tension and do not currently run any kind of button or sear system at all. Maybe I'll grab my dads Like Mike and give that a run. I too noticed that my tears cleaned up when I began rotating the hinge, vs pulling through.

 

[HarryHunter]

This is typically a sign of too short of a D Loop FWIW

Normally I would say yes that is a possible indication. However that was messed with as well. Also doing it on the shooting machine was resulting in the same effects. There is a growing number of conversations taking place on Facebook and AT as well all with the same complaint. It appears this new system for Hoyt needs a few years to work the kinks out of. I torque tune all my bows and it’s night and day difference between last years Axius Ultra and this years Ventum 33. The Axius Ultra and years past were some of the most forgiving bows to torque tune. This Ventum is proving to be too troublesome to even care to keep. Specially with all the incredible offerings from other brands.


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[ncavi8tor]

Normally I would say yes that is a possible indication. However that was messed with as well. Also doing it on the shooting machine was resulting in the same effects. There is a growing number of conversations taking place on Facebook and AT as well all with the same complaint. It appears this new system for Hoyt needs a few years to work the kinks out of. I torque tune all my bows and it’s night and day difference between last years Axius Ultra and this years Ventum 33. The Axius Ultra and years past were some of the most forgiving bows to torque tune. This Ventum is proving to be too troublesome to even care to keep. Specially with all the incredible offerings from other brands.


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I've been searching for these conversations and haven't found any yet. Most everybody I've read about has nothing but great things to say about the Ventum and new cam system.. Care to post some links?

Thanks!
NC

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[Zac]

I've been searching for these conversations and haven't found any yet. Most everybody I've read about has nothing but great things to say about the Ventum and new cam system.. Care to post some links?

Thanks!
NC

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I would also be interested in seeing these. At this point I'm not sure if my theories are in my head or if the cam does indeed need to be treated differently. Maybe a good excuse to buy the B3 Omega or Truball Blade I've been thinkinng about.

 

[cuttiebrownbow]

Zac, you are much more knowledgeable than I am with tuning, but you do sound like I did with my Prime CT3.

I got so frustrated I ended up setting everything back to factory spec, shims and centershot.

I used my fletched arrows to now re-zero my pins out to 40. Then I went right to broadhead tuning and I shimmed from those results. I think essentially it was so sensitive to front shoulder position, rear elbow, face pressure and especially grip pressure that I couldn’t get consistent results because I couldn’t be ‘perfect’ all the time through paper.

I could pick my other bows and shoot bareshaft bullet holes and shoot them out to 40 so I know my form was consistent enough that my other bows couldn’t pick up on my shooting imperfections.

Broadhead tuning was a breeze though and I found that the bow wasn’t as finicky as bareshaft and paper made me think. I only have used my prime out to 50 yards with broadheads but it drills them no problem.


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[406unltd]

sorry to hear your having issues zac. I shoot my 33 with my b3 infinity two finger, and with my goat in two finger hinge. It hasn’t given me any issues and I pull hard on the wall. So I’m not sure thats the issue from my point of view but could be. Tuned up well and shoots good. Hope you get it figured out. Only issue I’ve noticed with mine is my top left limb ( from being shot perspective) leans quite a bit. Good luck

 

[Zac]

sorry to hear your having issues zac. I shoot my 33 with my b3 infinity two finger, and with my goat in two finger hinge. It hasn’t given me any issues and I pull hard on the wall. So I’m not sure thats the issue from my point of view but could be. Tuned up well and shoots good. Hope you get it figured out. Only issue I’ve noticed with mine is my top left limb ( from being shot perspective) leans quite a bit. Good luck

Good to hear man. I'm kind of terrified to shoot anything with a button anyway.

 

[Samdemarais]

Zac, you are much more knowledgeable than I am with tuning, but you do sound like I did with my Prime CT3.

I got so frustrated I ended up setting everything back to factory spec, shims and centershot.

I used my fletched arrows to now re-zero my pins out to 40. Then I went right to broadhead tuning and I shimmed from those results. I think essentially it was so sensitive to front shoulder position, rear elbow, face pressure and especially grip pressure that I couldn’t get consistent results because I couldn’t be ‘perfect’ all the time through paper.

I could pick my other bows and shoot bareshaft bullet holes and shoot them out to 40 so I know my form was consistent enough that my other bows couldn’t pick up on my shooting imperfections.

Broadhead tuning was a breeze though and I found that the bow wasn’t as finicky as bareshaft and paper made me think. I only have used my prime out to 50 yards with broadheads but it drills them no problem.


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[Samdemarais]

I have the same trouble with my prime centergy. I cannot seem to get super consistent shots through paper, but when I shoot broadheads out to 60, it’s staking them in 3” groups. I am using a resistance release. I wonder if Zac has actually shot the bow at 40-60 yards and see how it broadhead tunes.

 

[OR Archer]

When you changed your strings did you route the cables correctly through the rollers?

 

[Zac]

I have an update. I reserved, tied nocking points and shimmed again. Set rest back to 3/16ths. Had the bow shooting bullets in no time. However once I screwed my stabilizers back on that same left tear showed up again. I screwed around with it for quite some time and came up with the short stop with 2oz, and a ten inch back bar with no weight. I thought I may have screwed up on the cable as well. I have the top cable running through the left roller when looking at the bow from the back.

 

[Zac]

So went to the range today and had to move the rest slightly again. Had bare shafts, broadheads, and fletched hitting at 20. When I measured center shot at home I was just inside of 3/4. This is not acceptable to me so I ordered a shim kit from Lancaster.

 

[Samdemarais]

So went to the range today and had to move the rest slightly again. Had bare shafts, broadheads, and fletched hitting at 20. When I measured center shot at home I was just inside of 3/4. This is not acceptable to me so I ordered a shim kit from Lancaster.

Can you shoot farther then that and see if broadheads hit? Why do you care where your center shot is, as long as it’s somewhere between 13/16 and 15/16 and your broads hit with field points at 60+. I’m just curious and trying to learn more.

 

[Billy Goat]

Can you shoot farther then that and see if broadheads hit? Why do you care where your center shot is, as long as it’s somewhere between 13/16 and 15/16 and your broads hit with field points at 60+. I’m just curious and trying to learn more.

That puts centershot outside of 13/16-15/16.

Things get tight at 3/4" or especially less.

Generally it's good to set centershot and yoke tune, shim, or whatever the bow is setup for at close range, then if need to make very slight adjustments do it with a micro tune rest.

 

[406unltd]

He said it’s inside of 3/4 which is a ways from 13/16 - 15/16. To far inside creates sight issues with the riser.

 

[OR Archer]

I have an update. I reserved, tied nocking points and shimmed again. Set rest back to 3/16ths. Had the bow shooting bullets in no time. However once I screwed my stabilizers back on that same left tear showed up again. I screwed around with it for quite some time and came up with the short stop with 2oz, and a ten inch back bar with no weight. I thought I may have screwed up on the cable as well. I have the top cable running through the left roller when looking at the bow from the back.

When you are referencing the top cable is it the one from the power side of the cam or the one that loops over the top?

 

[Zac]

When you are referencing the top cable is it the one from the power side of the cam or the one that loops over the top?

Loops over the top. To answer the other questions, I mostly wan't to move the rest over to the left a little so that I can see my entire site housing. I'm not gonna shoot out to distance until I get everything where I want it. Lancaster has a shim kit that is supposed to work for the Hoyt axle size. It was really popular with PSE guys, there are alot of options with that kit I think it should work well. he Hoyt kit was basically a waste of 50 bucks. There is only two sizes and they are so similar that I couldn't really tell the difference.

 

[Samdemarais]

That puts centershot outside of 13/16-15/16.

Things get tight at 3/4" or especially less.

Generally it's good to set centershot and yoke tune, shim, or whatever the bow is setup for at close range, then if need to make very slight adjustments do it with a micro tune rest.

Yaaaa this is why the teachers told you to read the directions before you answer.... sorry didn’t read close enough or think ....

 

[Billy Goat]

Yaaaa this is why the teachers told you to read the directions before you answer.... sorry didn’t read close enough or think ....

I just usually blame it on the bourbon.

 

[sndmn11]

Does the system require the same shim configuration the be used for both top and bottom cams? Or can you build in cam lean?