Hoyt tuning?

[Thess87]

I have a helix ultra. I just put some aftermarket strings on and to get my timing right And the bow to spec I had to put 14 Twists in one side and 11 in the other. With the spec that is normal 6 and 2 twist my top draw stop was over an inch off the cable when the bottom hit. I got it timed and center shot set. I’m still tearing right. My main question is was my cable made to long and if so is having that many twist in it going to give me problems? Thanks

 

[Brendan]

Why twisting the yokes so much? Twist up the other end of the buss first to shorten it overall, then use the yokes for fine tuning.... Plus, you may limit yourself for being able to yoke tune for getting rid of a tear.

Yokes have less of an impact overall than twisting the other end of the buss, or either end of the control cable.

 

[Thess87]

I was told your not supposed to mess with anything on the bottoms end. Right know I have a 2” right tear. And The top of my top cam is already Leaning pretty good two the left.

 

[Brendan]

Who told you not to "Not to mess with anything on the bottom end?" My opinion is don't touch the yokes until you've adjusted buss and control cables to be very close.

Yokes are for fine tuning and cam lean adjustments to get broadheads hitting with field points.

Right Tear:

• Broadhead hitting left is the same as bareshafts hitting left or a tail right tear.
• Tighten Right Yoke
• Loosen Left Yoke
• Rest Left
• Shim Cam(s) to the Right

 

[Thess87]

O that would be my local shop. I went there for a second opinion and I feel like I went backwards vs getting better. I’m by far any expert but that’s why I do it on my own. So would you un twist yokes back to spec and start from square one on timing by twisting the buss at the bottom? Thanks

 

[Billy Goat]

Yes

 

[OR Archer]

Who told you not to "Not to mess with anything on the bottom end?" My opinion is don't touch the yokes until you've adjusted buss and control cables to be very close.

Yokes are for fine tuning and cam lean adjustments to get broadheads hitting with field points.

Right Tear:

• Broadhead hitting left is the same as bareshafts hitting left or a tail right tear.
• Tighten Right Yoke
• Loosen Left Yoke
• Rest Left
• Shim Cam(s) to the Right

The split yoke on the bottom the newer Hoyts aren’t supposed to be twisted, so he’s correct on that. A better method would of been to subtract twists from the control while adding twists to the upper yokes of the buss. It would of ended with the bow in spec but much less twists into the yokes.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Some good info in this Hoyt bulletin:

https://s3.hoyt.com/uploads/2019/59f0e950d494b119638337.pdf

 

[ncavi8tor]

Who told you not to "Not to mess with anything on the bottom end?" My opinion is don't touch the yokes until you've adjusted buss and control cables to be very close.

Yokes are for fine tuning and cam lean adjustments to get broadheads hitting with field points.

Right Tear:

• Broadhead hitting left is the same as bareshafts hitting left or a tail right tear.
• Tighten Right Yoke
• Loosen Left Yoke
• Rest Left
• Shim Cam(s) to the Right

Straight out of the Hoyt owners manual! Do not add or remove twists from the bottom dual buss cable system. Make large timing adjustments with the control cable and then fine tune with the top yokes.

NC

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[Brendan]

I know what the manual says, but this is coming from experience and testing it. (And for the record, the manual also says "Never use aftermarket strings and cables" and they can deny warranty coverage when you do.)

With that said - being that you're already using an atermarket set, If you twisted one side 14 and the other side 11, the entire cable is too long and needs to be shortened, or the bottom cable coming off the bottom cam going over the splitter and back to the other side of the bottom cam needs to be shortened. Both can work, basically what you're dealing with is shitty QC on aftermarket strings as opposed to Hoyt factory strings, so you often need to do some tweaking as opposed to sending strings back to be re-made.

Disadvantage to twisting the bottom of the upper buss is too many twists can start to turn the splitter that connects to the lower cable coming off the cams which can in turn cause cable stops to hit at different times (but, I've also had to use the cable to remedy that as well). If that starts to happen, I pull the lower cable coming off the lower cams and shorten that.

I haven't had one set of aftermarket strings for my Hoyts with this system where I could get away with just yoke legs and control, because I always need to adjust poundage too.

(Edited for clarity)

 

[ncavi8tor]

Funny, I've had multiple sets of aftermarket strings for Hoyt's RX-1, RX-3, Helix, RX-4, and RX-4 Ultras where I never had to touch the bottom split buss system. I guess I must have been lucky after tuning bows for 20+ years.

OP, I do agree that your buss cable is out of spec and I would contact the string maker. Your other option is to twist the hell out of it and hope for the best!

Good luck!

NC

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[Mighty Mouse]

You may or may not find this helpful, but here's what I did yesterday when tuning a Hoyt Helix (#3 cam, 70-80# limbs) that I recently picked up secondhand (with aftermarket Brite Strings already installed):

Draw weight initially measured about 2# low with the limb bolts snugged all the way down. After adding 2 twists to the control cable and 2 twists to each buss cable (upper) yoke leg, draw weight measured 80# and ATA was spot on at 30-1/2". I checked cam timing on a draw board and found the top draw stop peg was hitting about 1/4" late (i.e., when the bottom pegs first touched the cable, there was a still 1/4" gap between the top peg and cable). I added another twist to each upper buss yoke, but the top cam didn't seem to advance much, so I removed one twist from the control cable. After that adjustment, top and bottom draw stops were hitting at the same time and max draw weight measured 79.5#, which seemed good enough to begin paper tuning.

After adjusting rest elevation and D-loop height to get the arrow running level through the Berger hole and adjusting rest windage to a centershot measurement of 7/8", I shot bareshafts through paper and got nock high/right tears. After raising the rest 1/8", the high tear was gone and the right tear remained so I began gradually bumping the rest to the left and got bullet hole tears with centershot at 11/16" (I'm a southpaw). Other chores were demanding my attention, so I stopped there, but I may go back and add a twist to the right yoke and remove a twist from the left yoke to see if I can get bullet hole tears with centershot closer to the middle of Hoyt's recommended range of 7/8" ± 3/16" (11/16" to 1-1/16").

 

[fordnut]

Iam a novice but I do work on my own bow. I’ve got new strings before and put them on & everything was out of whack. Took them off & put on 100 lbs of tension to get them to factory specs. Put them back on & boom everything falls into place


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ia bhtr]

Yep , as fordnut said , check tune charts and under tension twist the cables to their respective lengths listed in the charts , same with the string , reinstall and everything should be " close " to specs , as far as the yokes , good starting point would be to lay an arrow along side the top cam , arrow tip should cross the string at your nocking point . Your AtA and DW should be close to specs , your control cable controls the bow , so use it to fine tune your cam timing . Now onto final tuning , your choice BS & Fletched , or better yet BH & Fletched , if you are hitting tip left nock right put one twist in the right yoke and remove one twist from the left yoke , opposite for arrow hitting right , half twists to fine tune , once the fletched and other ( whichever you choose ) are hitting the same left to right , finish by taking any point low or high out of it by adjusting arrow rest height or d loop height , should be tuned to perfection once all this is done , and it doesnt take very long to do , bow should shoot excellent groups now , Good Luck >>=====> X <=====<< PS: I would start with the arrow running thru the center of the berger button hole , possibly just a wee bit high of dead center