I'm assuming that since you purchased a Hoyt that your pro-shop would get your basic tuning taken care of, but if not, I would start with the obvious tuning modalities:
Draw length (tip of nose, corner of mouth)
cam timing, nock points, rest mounted, paper tuning, sight leveling and install, just to name a few.
I would iron out any form and posture flaws that may be there, if none exist it will make tuning easier.
Once I walked out of the shop with my bow dialed, my next step would be to French Tune, which might involve
moving the rest which one would think would screw up the ever so sought after "bullet hole" through paper and
it probably will, but that's ok. Paper Tuning is just a starting point. I would also make sure that the pro shop spins
my arrows to make sure there is no wobbles on the back portion of the arrow. I have seen a lot of arrows just get tossed
on the saw and cut from the tip end with no testing to see where any inconsistencies are in the shaft. I would also play around
with draw weight to see if my fixed blades grouped better at a given weight. 3-4lb of DW is pretty much the same as changing
arrow spine one way or the other.
