How to level rifle before leveling scope

Take the mag out and unscrew front swivel stud. Then lay it on a flat granite counter top. Use a bubble level when installing scope and torquing rings.
 
If you have a rail on the rifle and a flat bottom turret on the scope, you can use feeler gauges wedged between the scope and rail.

SG pulse level and rifle sitting on a AG game changer. For the price, the pulse is super handy. Use it to level the rifle, scope, time the muzzle brake, and you can even use it as a scope level! And it has a training mode that will track your shots for both being level and your wobble zone. I like mine but admittedly don’t actually use it on targets inside 600.
 
No need. Just mount the scope square to the receiver.
I have found using the UM levels on the tikka action and to scope ring cap is the easiest method I’ve tried.

 
No need. Just mount the scope square to the receiver.
Yeah, THAT.....

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I have one of the originals of the one you have Huntsman, but mine is made out of UHMW. I have several different types of scope levelers and I always use that one as my finial check. Fast and easy to use. When I ordered mine the guy that was building those included a nice handwritten note thanking me for the purchase and ask if I thought of any changes that would make it better to call the enclosed phone number and visit with him. I have never found anything that needed to be improved.
 
The cheat code is a UM level or UM rings with the level built in. Or some sort of base level.
In my experience, 5 or 6 of them, the UM level is a bit off. It's fine for field use, but not what I would use to determine a level rifle when mounting a scope.
 
In my experience, 5 or 6 of them, the UM level is a bit off. It's fine for field use, but not what I would use to determine a level rifle when mounting a scope.
Same here...not level and they are all off enough that I don't look at them for scope leveling but...they are "on" enough for field use to make hits on animals.

I use this one for scope leveling...


I saw it mentioned above but not sure why it would be important to level your action fore and aft as well as side to side...it doesn't matter if the rifle is canted up or down to get the scope level.
 
I saw it mentioned above but not sure why it would be important to level your action fore and aft as well as side to side...it doesn't matter if the rifle is canted up or down to get the scope level.

Similar to the 3rd axis on a bowsight. If the level isn't 90 deg to the longitudinal axis of the rifle, the bubble will walk when the rifle muzzle is raised or lowered. Not sure how much it matters but I do it to be safe. I doubt it makes enough difference to worry about at 300-400 yards and in a hunting scenario.
 
Similar to the 3rd axis on a bowsight. If the level isn't 90 deg to the longitudinal axis of the rifle, the bubble will walk when the rifle muzzle is raised or lowered. Not sure how much it matters but I do it to be safe. I doubt it makes enough difference to worry about at 300-400 yards and in a hunting scenario.
Makes sense.

I make sure mine is close on the fore to aft and spend the time tweaking side to side as close to perfect as I can get and don't have trouble hitting stuff out to transonic speeds with what I have in my wheelhouse.

I have learned the hard way that if you're off a little on side to side level on your initial install then the reticle will start to walk off an 8" target when you start dialing up and cause clean misses at 6-8 mils elevation.
 
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