How slow is too slow?

[Jdeck09]

I’m currently shooting an older Hoyt Hyperforce at 70 lbs with a 28.5" draw. The arrow I’ve built is an Easton Axis 300 spine with 175 grains up front, for a total weight of about 498 grains.

My chronograph is showing this arrow at 240 fps.

I’ve got it tuned for SEVR 2.0s and Iron Will V’s.

Should I upgrade my bow or lighten my arrows or leave it alone?

 

[Whitefox82]

Leave it alone it’ll kill just fine. Guys use recurves and stuff last I checked.
Sounds like you’re looking for an excuse to buy a new bow though!

 

[Jdeck09]

Leave it alone it’ll kill just fine. Guys use recurves and stuff last I checked.
Sounds like you’re looking for an excuse to buy a new bow though!

I appreciate it! I sorta knew putting the chrono to it would get in my head.

I am looking for an excuse though so I might do a little browsing when the wife isn't looking.

 

[Whitefox82]

I get it man!

 

[BigAntlerGetter]

With that speed and arrow weight you will be just fine, ur on the heavier side which helps give you more penetration on mature bulls.

40-50 yards max range, and make sure in the woods you just keep in mind the more arc your arrow will have vs a faster bow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jdeck09]

With that speed and arrow weight you will be just fine, ur on the heavier side which helps give you more penetration on mature bulls.

40-50 yards max range, and make sure in the woods you just keep in mind the more arc your arrow will have vs a faster bow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Roger that!

 

[kcm2]

I doubt Fred Bear got over 185 fps and he did okay.

 

[Jdeck09]

I doubt Fred Bear got over 185 fps and he did okay.

I'm not as sneaky as him so I need all the range I can get

 

[schmidty3]

I shot a deer with 135 fps! Killed it dead!

(It was at 3 yards )

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Nothing wrong with a 498 gr arrow at 240 fps. That said, check your draw weight because you should be seeing around 265 fps at those specs if you're truly drawing 70#.

 

[Jdeck09]

Nothing wrong with a 498 gr arrow at 240 fps. That said, check your draw weight because you should be seeing around 265 fps at those specs if you're truly drawing 70#.

That's an interesting point. I'll drop by the bow shop and double check

 

[journeyman713]

I’m currently shooting an older Hoyt Hyperforce at 70 lbs with a 28.5" draw. The arrow I’ve built is an Easton Axis 300 spine with 175 grains up front, for a total weight of about 498 grains.

My chronograph is showing this arrow at 240 fps.

I’ve got it tuned for SEVR 2.0s and Iron Will V’s.

Should I upgrade my bow or lighten my arrows or leave it alone?

I would lighten it up. Flatter trajectory, over extra foot pounds of energy for me.
Makes no difference how much energy you have if you miss, due to misjudging distance by 5 yards.

My rig is 350 grains, solo pin, zero at 25yds. Anything inside 30yards - aim at the Heart (bottom of heart if closer, top of heart if 30, midbody for more). Arrow passes trough nearly every time, whitetail hunting.

 

[rclouse79]

I’m currently shooting an older Hoyt Hyperforce at 70 lbs with a 28.5" draw. The arrow I’ve built is an Easton Axis 300 spine with 175 grains up front, for a total weight of about 498 grains.

My chronograph is showing this arrow at 240 fps.

I’ve got it tuned for SEVR 2.0s and Iron Will V’s.

Should I upgrade my bow or lighten my arrows or leave it alone?

I had under spined arrows that were lightning fast and broadheads were literally impossible to tune. I changed to a stiffer heavier Easton axis and all my problems instantly went away. I was surprised the first time I shot the new arrow. My bow was much quieter and the arrow seemed to take forever to hit the target, relatively speaking. I would never go back, especially with a three pin scope I can dial for distance.

 

[Jdeck09]

I would lighten it up. Flatter trajectory, over extra foot pounds of energy for me.
Makes no difference how much energy you have if you miss, due to misjudging distance by 5 yards.

My rig is 350 grains, solo pin, zero at 25yds. Anything inside 30yards - aim at the Heart (bottom of heart if closer, top of heart if 30, midbody for more). Arrow passes trough nearly every time, whitetail hunting.

I wouldn't go that light personally. Elk are such a tough animal that the lowest I'd go would be 450.

I understand speed for whitetail but where I hunt whitetails is low pressure so they aren't edgy.

 

[Shootinsurveyor]

PSE Evolve 31 shoots my 500ish grain arrow at 240 set at 60lbs. No need to shoot 70lbs. Just upgraded to a Lift 33 that shoots the exact same speeds, but is much lighter than the PSE. Go get a new bow cause reasons.

 

[Jdeck09]

PSE Evolve 31 shoots my 500ish grain arrow at 240 set at 60lbs. No need to shoot 70lbs. Just upgraded to a Lift 33 that shoots the exact same speeds, but is much lighter than the PSE. Go get a new bow cause reasons.

I was kicking around one of the new Hoy AX-33s. I dont need it but I want it

 

[sodaksooner]

You'll be fine. If you want more speed, make sure the bow is tuned and drop a little weight on the arrows. Similar arrow specs on my old prime alloy and I get about 275 fps so there may be something going on with the bow too.

 

[Bump79]

I’m currently shooting an older Hoyt Hyperforce at 70 lbs with a 28.5" draw. The arrow I’ve built is an Easton Axis 300 spine with 175 grains up front, for a total weight of about 498 grains.

My chronograph is showing this arrow at 240 fps.

I’ve got it tuned for SEVR 2.0s and Iron Will V’s.

Should I upgrade my bow or lighten my arrows or leave it alone?

As @Mighty Mouse said you should be above 265 fps with that setup. Either it's not set at 70# & it's 60# or something is off with a measurement.

I do custom arrow builds and setup a lot of people for hunting. It really depends on what you consider your max ethical range on your target game. The reality of any setup is that there are tradeoffs taking place. You can minimize those but not eliminate them. You have Iron Will Broadheads so penetration will not be a concern. I'd be focused on range error, time in flight, durability & noise. Those are the easiest levers left to pull. You're not going to gain that much lethality from your bow to a new one as far as speed goes.

I'd personally lighten you up to around 430 grains TAW. That would increase your launch velocity around 10%. Also, I don't think you need a 300 spine. 330-350 cut short would be perfect. Here's a few things to consider:

1. I consider there to be a minimum weight I'd recommend anyone shooting. That varies by archer but somewhere around 400 grains is the lowest I'd go for the average archer.
   1. Below that you're compromising structural integrity. You can use premium materials like titanium to go lower, but it's costly.
   2. At higher velocities tune gets a lot more finicky.
2. Archery is a probability game. Once you've let the arrow loose you want to have have as much on your side as possible.
   1. Arrow flight has to be perfect. Shoot a properly setup arrow, tuned bow enough vane and a well designed broadhead. That gets it flying straight to where you want it.
   2. Range error is paramount. Bone is above and below vitals. Minimize distance or maximize velocity.
   3. Time in flight is significant. Animals get a vote to move and the longer you leave the polls open to more distance they can move. Minimize distance or maximize velocity.
   4. Maximize penetration. Choose a broadhead that is designed to penetrate well for your target species and your setup. If you reduce arrow weight down - make sure to make up for that with the broadhead design, sharpness, etc. You're fine with the IW. I wouldn't shoot the Sevr at an elk personally.

My setup is always designed around a 50 yards shot with +-5 yard range error putting me within vitals on an elk. Then I want to be able to have a follow up shot at 80+ yds if presented to put another hole in them. For me, that's 294 fps and a 445 grain arrow. But that's with 30" draw, 70# & 335 IBO bow.

My drop per yard at 50 yds is ~1". So if I aim center lungs and it's actually 55 yards I'm still in. I'm very sensitive to range error. I want to be able to estimate and let it go within 50 yards. Of course I'll range if I can but I've been busted ranging more times that I can count.

 

[Bump79]

I was kicking around one of the new Hoy AX-33s. I dont need it but I want it

Next years bow will be better, every year

 

[Jdeck09]

As @Mighty Mouse said you should be above 265 fps with that setup. Either it's not set at 70# & it's 60# or something is off with a measurement.

I do custom arrow builds and setup a lot of people for hunting. It really depends on what you consider your max ethical range on your target game. The reality of any setup is that there are tradeoffs taking place. You can minimize those but not eliminate them. You have Iron Will Broadheads so penetration will not be a concern. I'd be focused on range error, time in flight, durability & noise. Those are the easiest levers left to pull. You're not going to gain that much lethality from your bow to a new one as far as speed goes.

I'd personally lighten you up to around 430 grains TAW. That would increase your launch velocity around 10%. Also, I don't think you need a 300 spine. 330-350 cut short would be perfect. Here's a few things to consider:

1. I consider there to be a minimum weight I'd recommend anyone shooting. That varies by archer but somewhere around 400 grains is the lowest I'd go for the average archer.
   1. Below that you're compromising structural integrity. You can use premium materials like titanium to go lower, but it's costly.
   2. At higher velocities tune gets a lot more finicky.
2. Archery is a probability game. Once you've let the arrow loose you want to have have as much on your side as possible.
   1. Arrow flight has to be perfect. Shoot a properly setup arrow, tuned bow enough vane and a well designed broadhead. That gets it flying straight to where you want it.
   2. Range error is paramount. Bone is above and below vitals. Minimize distance or maximize velocity.
   3. Time in flight is significant. Animals get a vote to move and the longer you leave the polls open to more distance they can move. Minimize distance or maximize velocity.
   4. Maximize penetration. Choose a broadhead that is designed to penetrate well for your target species and your setup. If you reduce arrow weight down - make sure to make up for that with the broadhead design, sharpness, etc. You're fine with the IW. I wouldn't shoot the Sevr at an elk personally.

My setup is always designed around a 50 yards shot with +-5 yard range error putting me within vitals on an elk. Then I want to be able to have a follow up shot at 80+ yds if presented to put another hole in them. For me, that's 294 fps and a 445 grain arrow. But that's with 30" draw, 70# & 335 IBO bow.

My drop per yard at 50 yds is ~1". So if I aim center lungs and it's actually 55 yards I'm still in. I'm very sensitive to range error. I want to be able to estimate and let it go within 50 yards. Of course I'll range if I can but I've been busted ranging more times that I can count.

This is a fantastic breakdown. I really appreciate it. The spots I am ambushing elk generally are 50 or less. The rest of my hunts are whitetail.

We shot a nice bull at 42 yards on this hunt a few years back.

I am going to check the tune on my bow today or tomorrow so that I can eliminate that as a cause of the slowness.

My goal for the fall will be 60 yard max.