How much powder?

[Danomite]

Hi all,

I have an old muzzleloader that my undergraduate roommate gave me about 20 years ago because his mom was going to throw it away. I rebuilt the internals
with brass I found in the parking lot and refinished everything as best I could. It may or may not have occurred in a dorm room.
It actually shoots really well. The first shot I took with it after a test shot with a string I killed a jackrabbit at 75 yards. That said, I haven’t shot it in 15 years and I’m a little more risk averse than when I was 19.

How does one determine a safe amount of powder to use with an old muzzleloader? I plan to use it for an antelope hunt this August just for fun.

Anyone have any suggestions for determining safe powder loads?

Attached are some pictures for reference. It’s .45 caliber.

Appreciate any help.

Daniel

 

[EdP]

What "internals" did you rebuild with brass you found in a parking lot???

 

[Danomite]

I built the parts that hold the hammer in place.

 

[PathFinder]

It's essentially impossible to blow a muzzleloader up with an excessive powder charge as long as the bullet is a typical weight.
Black powder is generally measured by volume. Anywhere from 80-100 grains of FF or FFF should be fine depending on bullet weight.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[rayporter]

i had a .32 once as a kid and after reading the old timers method of putting a ball in your palm and covering it with powder i came up with 30 gr of black. shot it for years. a round ball would blow a rabbits head nearly off.

 

[Danomite]

I appreciate the input guys. I'll post any interesting things I learn and hopefully a picture of a dead antelope in a couple months.

I think when I initially was figuring it out I just used the amount of powder that would allow my ramrod to stick out of the barrel a bit after seating a ball.

 

[rayporter]

back the 18th century it was common to conserve powder and light loads were used. very light by todays standards.

 

[Squincher]

I can't tell for sure from your photos if the rifle is original or a reproduction. If it is an original, I wouldn't recommend shooting it without having a gunsmith who knows these guns check it out. If it is a modern repro, 45-70 grains of 3F is pretty standard.

 

[HighUintas]

That looks like it could be an original and I wouldn't exceed 50-70gr black powder if it is an original and in good shape. If it's original you should have the barrel and breech plug checked by an experienced traditional ML smith. I also wouldn't use anything but real BP in it.

Also, yes you can blow up a muzzleloader by overcharging it if there is a defect somewhere. This is why they proofed barrels back in the day with huge powder charges.

 

[Danomite]

Thank you guys. I think it’s original. It sat in an attic for 50+ years before I got it.

 

[HighUintas]

You should post some of these photos over on American Longrifle Forum in the antique section and I'll bet someone could potentially ID a maker or at least region and period of origin. The lock is fairly unique compared to what I've seen

 

[jayhawk]

I've shot muzzleloaders my whole life, and the general consensus among traditional shooters is to start at approx. your caliber (.45 cal = 45gr of powder) and work your load from there to see what it shoots best.

Tock-O is right. Those people over at the ALR forum are good people and they'd be a great help as well.