How high @ 100 for 140gr 6.5cm for best POI

[S-3 ranch]

First off I am a diehard 270win shooter, but I was given a ruger America predator 6.5cm by a friend
And have zero clue where to setup the rifle for 0-350 shots with a non dial up turret scope
( my damn AI computer search just kicks out 0 at 100 and dial for range)
My 270’s just shoot way different then a 6.5cm ,
Or am I just over thinking it and sight it in same as my 270win and 375Ruger
These computer models are confusing me
( with stuff like this “” A 6.5 Creedmoor pushing a 142-grain Nosler AccuBond Long Range 2700 fps and zeroed 3.45 inches high at 100 yards has a MPBR of 310 yards.”)

 

[wpeach1912]

4” high gets you dropping about 5 inches at 350 but you’re also gonna be 5 inches high at about 130. I’d just zero at 100 maybe 2” high then hold higher if you’re clearly shooting farther. This is assuming you can hold steady enough at a specific aiming point to makeup for the built in POI error. This distance also depends on what size of vitals you are aiming at.

 

[S-3 ranch]

4” high gets you dropping about 5 inches at 350 but you’re also gonna be 5 inches high at about 130. I’d just zero at 100 maybe 2” high then hold higher if you’re clearly shooting farther. This is assuming you can hold steady enough at a specific aiming point to makeup for the built in POI error. This distance also depends on what size of vitals you are aiming at.

Ok so +2 @ 100 then just hold over on deer & sheep if you’re going past 300
I’m not a very technical hunter so dope sheets and dials aren’t my thing
But we regularly shoot milk jugs @ 300-400 yards just to keep in shape for the next season as practice

 

[416bull]

I just stick to the 1" high at a hundred, then spend alot of time at the range seeing what it will do at the different distances, practice make perfect

 

[grfox92]

You need to know your muzzle velocity to answer this question. But let's assume it's 2650fps. I would zero your rifle at 275 yards. You should (after verifying at the range) be able to kill anything deer sized or bigger out to 400 yards.

Attached is the ballistics based on 140ELDs at 2650 zeroed at 275 yards.

Sent from my SM-G990U using Tapatalk

 

[S-3 ranch]

Unfortunately I don’t really reload anymore, so velocity is just a WAG from lot to lot, and I don’t have a chronograph anymore, but I can try to find a basic average as a reference or something

 

[khuber84]

I ran 2750mv, I would always zero at 100y. Then find the amount of dial to offset your zero to give you mpbr(+4,-4) dialing up 0.9mil from a 100y zero, has you 4" high at 150, and 4" low at 330y. This is at 4k DA. It'll all change slightly with atmospherics, or greatly with mv.

I would personally always use a 100y zero, and dial in your MPBR offset. If you need more dial for a long shot, you'll hopefully have time to range dial and engage.

 

[grfox92]

Unfortunately I don’t really reload anymore, so velocity is just a WAG from lot to lot, and I don’t have a chronograph anymore, but I can try to find a basic average as a reference or something

Id just go off the bix and run the numbers in jbm to verify. Check it at 100, 200 and 300 and see if it all lines up.

Sent from my SM-G990U using Tapatalk

 

[Macintosh]

Same/same just not quite as flat shooting as a 270, so you’ll either need to shorten your max range for holding dead-on, or accept a bit more built-in error and compensate for it. How long is your barrel?

at 2650fps, which is normal for most 140gr factory loads from both of my 24” tikkas, and at low elevation (DA 2700ft today), zeroing at 100 yards my dope is similar but not exactly the same as the chart above:

* 2” high is the equivalent of a 225yard zero, and has me 2” low at 300, a bit over 5” low at 400.

*3.5” high is the equivalent of a 275 yard zero, and has me a bit over 3.5” low at 400.

Personally if I use one, I like my MPBR zeros minimal so I can hold dead-on without much built-in error, so my personal preference is for a 100yd zero 1.5” high, which in this case is the equivalent of roughly a 190 yard zero, and has me only an inch and a half low to just shy of 250 yds, which accounts for nearly all of my shots. Past that I dial. I can stretch this 50 yards or so with my 270 while maintaining a similarly minimal error.

 

[S-3 ranch]

I ran 2750mv, I would always zero at 100y. Then find the amount of dial to offset your zero to give you mpbr(+4,-4) dialing up 0.9mil from a 100y zero, has you 4" high at 150, and 4" low at 330y. This is at 4k DA. It'll all change slightly with atmospherics, or greatly with mv.

I would personally always use a 100y zero, and dial in your MPBR offset. If you need more dial for a long shot, you'll hopefully have time to range dial and engage.

I don’t do dial turrets, and only use normal scopes of modern vintage and muscle memory from practice like I did back in my shotgun years .
( I would only trust one brand with dialing that is available and I probably couldn’t afford it)

 

[Diamondback]

ShootersCalculator.com | Point Blank Range Calculator

Calculates the maximum point blank range of a firearm cartridge fired from a rifle or handgun.

shooterscalculator.com

ShootersCalculator.com | Ballistic Trajectory Calculator

Calculates the ballistic trajectory of a bullet fired from a rifle, handgun or other firearm. Produces a ballistic trajectory chart and table that shows the drop, velocity, kinetic energy, windage, and trajectory of a bullet.

shooterscalculator.com

This is free online if you want to look at aspects.

 

[MeatInTheFreezer]

Here's my 6.5 creed running 143 ELD-X's with a non-dial scope. I converted MOA to inches so I know my max for holding dead on. I used the Revic app to get my data figured out but then converted MOA to inches in excel.

 

[khuber84]

I don’t do dial turrets, and only use normal scopes of modern vintage and muscle memory from practice like I did back in my shotgun years .
( I would only trust one brand with dialing that is available and I probably couldn’t afford it)

3.25 high at 100y would simulate my above stated trajectory for having a mpbr to 330y with a 140eldm at roughly 4k DA.

 

[Jordan Smith]

Unfortunately I don’t really reload anymore, so velocity is just a WAG from lot to lot, and I don’t have a chronograph anymore, but I can try to find a basic average as a reference or something

You can get by without measuring your muzzle speed. Just zero 2-2.5" high, then shoot at 300, 400, and 500 yards and measure your actual drops. You can use these actual drops to calculate your approximate muzzle speed. Use Kentucky windage (holdover) in the field to hit targets that you range.

Or get caught up to the 21st century and get a scope that works correctly, zero at 100, and dial to your calculated MPBR using a ballistic solver. You can still do what I described above to solve for approximate muzzle speed.

 

[Jordan Smith]

( I would only trust one brand with dialing that is available and I probably couldn’t afford it)

SWFA SS 6x and done.

 

[SDHNTR]

I don’t do dial turrets, and only use normal scopes of modern vintage and muscle memory from practice like I did back in my shotgun years .
( I would only trust one brand with dialing that is available and I probably couldn’t afford it)

So if you don’t want to dial Why not use a holdover reticle at least? Zero at 100, use the subtensions to hold as needed.

There’s a better way than what you are trying to do.

 

[Braaap]

Dialing is far easier than what you’re trying to do. Or at least get a scope with a mil reticle and learn to use the reticle. Also far easier than what you’re trying to do.

 

[SloppyJ]

Wow this thread is making it more complicated than needed. Zero at 100yd like a civilized human being and figure out your drops to how ever far you want to go which im betting isnt far if your scope doesnt dial. Write that on your gun and go to town

 

[S.Clancy]

I definitely zero my 270 and 6.5CM differently. 270 win gets a 300 yard zero, MPBR of 330-340. 6.5 CM gets a 200 yard zero and then BDC drops to 500 that line up dead nuts.

 

[SDHNTR]

I definitely zero my 270 and 6.5CM differently. 270 win gets a 300 yard zero, MPBR of 330-340. 6.5 CM gets a 200 yard zero and then BDC drops to 500 that line up dead nuts.

Why? This is crazy. Zero all guns at 100 yards. That’s far enough to matter, but yet close enough to where you can do it with precision. You can’t do that to the same degree at 200 or more yards, and atmospheric conditions start to influence things. A super precise zero is critical.

Then, know your ballistics and either use the reticle or dial, whatever your preference. The cartridge is irrelevant. The process is the same.

Those of you relying on Kentucky windage and mpbr are only handicapping yourselves and risking wounding animals. You can do better. It’s no more complicated, no slower, and only better. There are literally only pros and no cons.