How do you store dies with Hornady QD bushings?

[207North]

I have 2 sets on pistol cartridges that have over 20k each no issue.

Rifle dies im up to about 4,000 on one set with no issues. Wear like that shows something is wrong.

Do you set the dies for any amount of cam over?

 

[270-300]

Do you set the dies for any amount of cam over?

Quite a bit. Rifle cartridges will not size correctly without camming over. On belted magnums I am setting the die travel ammount based off of chamber length to ensure the cartridge head spaces off of the shoulder, so there is less than maximum cam over but it is still noticable.

The wear spot in the post is the edges of the shoulder that lead when the die is locking in. Once the die is locked in those are not the stress point. Likely there is a clearance issue, and possibly they are not fully rotating until the seat. I have never seen my press do that after ten years of use.

 

[207North]

Quite a bit. Rifle cartridges will not size correctly without camming over. On belted magnums I am setting the die travel ammount based off of chamber length to ensure the cartridge head spaces off of the shoulder, so there is less than maximum cam over but it is still noticable.

The wear spot in the post is the edges of the shoulder that lead when the die is locking in. Once the die is locked in those are not the stress point. Likely there is a clearance issue, and possibly they are not fully rotating until the seat. I have never seen my press do that after ten years of use.

Mine are set with redding competition shell holders so the cam over is never excessive.

These worked great initially, but would back out over time and deform. Once that cam surface was damaged, I would have to change shellholder and chase the wear. Unfortunately at the time I did not realize the surface was damaged and it caused a bunch of headache.

The mating internal surfaces on the adapter were also deformed. This took out a bunch of other bushings.

Either way, once the lnl bushings were removed from the dies, any inconsistency in shoulder bump went away.

 

[SDHNTR]

Mine are set with redding competition shell holders so the cam over is never excessive.

These worked great initially, but would back out over time and deform. Once that cam surface was damaged, I would have to change shellholder and chase the wear. Unfortunately at the time I did not realize the surface was damaged and it caused a bunch of headache.

The mating internal surfaces on the adapter were also deformed. This took out a bunch of other bushings.

Either way, once the lnl bushings were removed from the dies, any inconsistency in shoulder bump went away.

I can see that happening. That aluminum they use is super soft for both the male and female bushings. Hmmm. I’ll need to keep a close eye on those lugs.

I wish I could find a better way to just use the lock ring. I use Redding dies mostly with Hornady lock rings. Once I have the die depth in the press and my shoulder bump set properly, I tighten down the lock ring. Of course it holds just fine for that reloading session, but then it’s not possible to remove the die from the press again without loosening the lock ring. There is no flat on the die body to apply a wrench. So you have to loosen the ring each time to get it out, and then re set headspace again the next reloading session. That’s not a huge deal other than it’s working my brass unnecessarily as it takes a few adjustments to get the measurements right.

 

[207North]

Adjust the die like you have been. Take a paint pen and mark the die where the grub screw to lock the ring is. Do not tighten the grub screw. Back the die and locking ring out a quarter turn or so. Line up the grub screw with the paint mark with the die loose. Now tighten the locking ring grub screw. Screw the die back in until it stops.

It will prob take a time or two to get shoulder bump perfect.

You will no longer need a tool to remove the die.

 

[Harvey_NW]

Rifle cartridges will not size correctly without camming over.

I have a couple dies that don't cam over when setup for .002-3" shoulder bump and have no issues with consistent sizing with proper lube.

I use Redding dies mostly with Hornady lock rings. Once I have the die depth in the press and my shoulder bump set properly, I tighten down the lock ring. Of course it holds just fine for that reloading session, but then it’s not possible to remove the die from the press again without loosening the lock ring. There is no flat on the die body to apply a wrench. So you have to loosen the ring each time to get it out, and then re set headspace again the next reloading session.

The Hornady lock rings have wrench flats, I don't see why you would need to loosen it or try to wrench on the die to remove it. If you tighten the lock ring when it's torqued in the press with the die during setup, it's a major PITA to get out, which is why I suggested cracking the lock ring loose from the press to do the final tightening on the lock ring clamp screw, then torquing back into the press for sizing. If that makes sense.

*edit* - Also edited my previous response for clarification.

 

[SDHNTR]

I have a couple dies that don't cam over when setup for .002-3" shoulder bump and have no issues with consistent sizing with proper lube.


The Hornady lock rings have wrench flats, I don't see why you would need to loosen it or try to wrench on the die to remove it. If you tighten the lock ring when it's torqued in the press with the die during setup, it's a major PITA to get out, which is why I suggested cracking the lock ring loose from the press to do the final tightening on the lock ring clamp screw, then torquing back into the press for sizing. If that makes sense.

*edit* - Also edited my previous response for clarification.

Point 1 - yes, me too. I have several dies that will over size if touching the shell holder at all. They need to be backed out 1/4 turn + for .002 bump.

As for Point 2 - once you crack the lock ring loose, the die generally moves a bit too. And I’ve tried a million times to do as you say, there’s always movement and it never seems to return to the same place when reinstalled. At least not the same measurable place. Maybe I’m doing something different. I’d love to see a video of your process.

 

[SDHNTR]

Adjust the die like you have been. Take a paint pen and mark the die where the grub screw to lock the ring is. Do not tighten the grub screw. Back the die and locking ring out a quarter turn or so. Line up the grub screw with the paint mark with the die loose. Now tighten the locking ring grub screw. Screw the die back in until it stops.

It will prob take a time or two to get shoulder bump perfect.

You will no longer need a tool to remove the die.

I’ve done similar with a sharpie. It kinda works. The bushings are just much easier and more precise (at least they are until they aren’t, which hasn’t happened to me yet).

 

[270-300]

I can see that happening. That aluminum they use is super soft for both the male and female bushings. Hmmm. I’ll need to keep a close eye on those lugs.

I wish I could find a better way to just use the lock ring. I use Redding dies mostly with Hornady lock rings. Once I have the die depth in the press and my shoulder bump set properly, I tighten down the lock ring. Of course it holds just fine for that reloading session, but then it’s not possible to remove the die from the press again without loosening the lock ring. There is no flat on the die body to apply a wrench. So you have to loosen the ring each time to get it out, and then re set headspace again the next reloading session. That’s not a huge deal other than it’s working my brass unnecessarily as it takes a few adjustments to get the measurements right.

Which bushings are aluminum?