Hornday vs Lapua brass differences during reloading process

[ElkPRC]

Hey guys, I am purchasing a new Bergara HMR Pro in 300 PRC and plan to reload using Lapua brass that I already have on hand. I have 100 rounds of Hornady 225 ELD-M on hand as well and was planning on utilizing this for general practice, familiarization and break in with the rifle once set up is complete.

Since purchasing I have since gotten the good idea fairy in my head and was considering using the once fired from factory ammo Hornady brass to do my load development. My thoughts are if I can do the full load development using the Hornady brass I can properly determine what the gun "wants". Once established I could take that load and put it in the Lapua brass and do a very small window on either side to confirm and allow for the minor pressure differences in brass and then I will have saved a full firing or more off of my brass life.

I understand that doing this anywhere near a max load could be troublesome and I am aware of the dangers in that. I guess my questions is, if I am maintaining the same neck tension and sizing the brass the same I should in theory be able to get a 95-99% solution using the brass I don't care about to what will work very well in the gun. Then I will be able to basically just do a confirmation with the Lapua brass..... But will it work this way? will it be a drastic difference and having to do the process twice, wasting more components than I am trying to save?

End of the day I am trying to shoot Berger 220's out of a 300 PRC as precisely as possible, at or just over 2900 FPS if possible. Welcome any productive thoughts on this switching part way through method and if I would just chasing my own tail more or not. Thanks!

 

[Keith Stone]

Biggest concern to me would be neck tension. If you are using a bushing die consider getting 1 size up from the one you are using with your Hornady brass for the thicker necks on lapua.

 

[Lawnboi]

Learn to reload on the Hornady brass. Even better yet learn on a cheaper cartridge to shoot.

Nobody can tell you what might happen. Lots differ, barrels differ, brass makes a big difference.


After learning on Hornady I appreciate the consistency of Lapua. My reloading process and equipment also evolved over time to be able to exploit the consistency Lapua gives.

FWIW you could put 4 different makes of brass in the same die with the same bushing and get 4 different results, both in headspace and neck tension. There is no absolute with reloading. Add on additional firings without annealing and you compound this.

Honestly the best thing you could do if your learning to reload is get a 223. Buy 100 pieces of Lapua brass and fire them till they are dean analyzing every step of the way. It dosnt hurt wrecking a few pieces of brass that is .60 cents a case or less.

 

[Harvey_NW]

My personal preference with a new rifle and lot of brass is to do a barrel break in and quick load development to find a mild load and get the brass formed and the barrel sped up, before doing extensive load development or searching for max pressure. There is a controversial concept about breaking brass in and whether or not a low or mild firing helps harden the case head and keep the primer pockets tight over the life of the brass. Two things are not controversial, you can experience a pressure difference between new and once fired brass, and your barrel will speed up somewhere in the 100-200 round range. That's when I start looking at higher powder charges.

Here's a load development thread I wrote up with my process and some data https://www.rokslide.com/forums/threads/25-creedmoor-133-berger-eh.271165/

 

[EdP]

I think you should be able to determine the velocity node you want using the Hornady brass and then develop a load with the Lapua brass that matches that velocity. Same for bullet jump to the lands.

 

[Sdvldog1371]

I have 2 300 PRC rifles. I have put a lot of 212 eld-x and 225 eld-m down range developing loads on hornady brass. I volume sorted, neck turned, primer pocket and flash hole uniformed, annealed, loaded to the tenth of a grain for powder weight, weight sorted projectiles etc... then ADG made brass finally and I tried theirs out. I couldn't believe the night and day difference that brass made in the reloading process.

I don't use Hornady brass for anything except hunting now, knowing I will lose the brass. All I can say is I had to basically start over when I went to ADG, I didn't have to go crazy on case prep and got better groups and more consistency. I have 100 lapua I have yet to do a development for. I use Hornady ammo for barrel break in and the brass for hunting only.

I suppose what I'm saying is don't waist good brass on barrel break in and charge weight/ velocity node testing. As mentioned use the Hornady to velocity node test and then do a ladder to find the same velocity in your lapua cases and fine tune from there. The great thing is if you anneal between firings you can use the same 5-10 pieces of lapua to fire form and then anneal, resize, trim and find the velocity. If you do it that way you'll have a great starting point and may get some decently accurate ammo using Virgin cases and you'll have the data for the second loading without having to shoot 100 rds worth of components before development starts.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I’ve had good luck with hornady brass out of my 308 and 6.5 creedmoor but the lapua stuff is definitely nicer. I usually save the higher end stuff for hunting ammo.