I suppose it's possible, but this scope rode on my Tikka and produced 0.5 MOA groups at 400 yards too.I was talking about scope tracking. I wonder if you could have a bum spring.
Very good points. Thank you.if that was recent we can scratch one more off the list.
if not recent i would switch scopes and you will know in 3 shots.
are any screws that hold on the scope bases long enough to go clear through the action and touch the bolt or barrel?
Wrench has a good point on the spring- i have seen scopes cranked until the erector tube comes clear off of the screw and flops around inside.
which brings up the question----are you near the end of the travel of the windage or are you in the middle of the screws travel?
this could explain how the scope could shoot good on one rifle and bad on another.
Not exactly sure because 2.80" is the longest I can load in my box. These were 2.775". I'm going to try another group at 2.8" and see if it makes any difference. If that doesn't do it, I may load up 3-4 at 0.10" off and single load them just to be sure.Not saying that this is related to your stringing, but how far off the lands are you at that length?
My Alpine 7-08 didn't really shoot until I got the jump down to .010". With Nosler BT or Accubonds this results in a OAL which fits in the box "snug", but feeds fine.
Never found a factory ammo that would shoot even half way decent.
I'll try another scope on it and see what happens. I'd hate it if this K6 is bad, because it's so damn sharp, clear and bright.I am not a reloader/handloader so I won't wade into those waters...As far as potential scope issues someone mentioned on tracking....It wouldn't be a tracking issue. It would be a holding zero issue since you aren't dialing.
A bad spring in the scope could be an issue. Also, even though you shot it on another gun I would assume you had to adjust the scope to get it "zeroed" on the new gun. This is a long shot but if you get to the outer edges of the scopes adjustment you can put pressure on the springs inside as they are only designed for a certain amount of adjustment. This can cause the reticle or zero to bounce when firing and it may return to a slightly different settling point. I have seen this happen vertically but it seems I saw it more on horizontal adjustments.
Most scope aren't designed to be used to the point the turret stops spinning so you may have a few clicks one way or another until it officially "bottoms" out but the design adjustment range maybe before that point. I saw this a lot in a previous job working specifically with rifle scopes (tech, repair, testing, etc)
For what it's worth, I measured one of my Accubond loads yesterday at 2.875" OAL. This load is at .010" of bullet jump.Not exactly sure because 2.80" is the longest I can load in my box. These were 2.775". I'm going to try another group at 2.8" and see if it makes any difference.
Actually, I'm using the Howa hinged floorplate.For what it's worth, I measured one of my Accubond loads yesterday at 2.875" OAL. This load is at .010" of bullet jump.
I'm guessing you are using the Legacy Sports bottom "metal" with detachable magazine, which could explain the discrepancy. I am using the Howa bottom.
I'd be happy to share load data if you are interested.
Seem to be equally L and R, but the sample size is fairly small.Hope the new seating depth does it for you.
Maybe I missed it, but are your shots stringing consistently left or right or both?
It is frustrating. I've now shot no fewer than 6 groups - none of which measured more than 1/4" vertical. I gotta believe that the 139/140 class bullets are just causing some kind of barrel whip that is timed just right that they can't group L to R.I had this happen with 160 Partitions in my rifle. It shot everything else in groups that looked like they should, except the Partitions. It was frustrating because the groups was so small on the vertical but 2" or so on the horizontal.