High Quality Replacement Knife for Havalon (Elk in Field)

[treillw]

I've used a Havalon Baracuta and Piranta for close to a dozen animals in the field (elk and bear). Of the two, I prefer the Baracuta. My wife carries the one and I carry the other. I usually end up using one for the dirty work and the other for the clean work. I'm getting more into knives, steel types, sharpening, etc, and I'm thinking about getting a different knife for processing animals in the field. Not looking to turn this into a Havalon vs ____________ thread, as I'd like to just judge for myself. My Baracuta weighs 5.1 oz as it sits in my backpack right now with replacement blades and case. It's not like I'm saving a ton of weight by using it, as another knife with high quality steel would weigh essentially the same or maybe less. With a traditional knife, I also get rigidity and a more durable edge that should last for multiple animals. Those are just my current thoughts. I've actually learned how to easily sharpen knives now to make them beyond shaving sharp (Worksharp Ken Onion w/ blade grinding attachment and stropping belts), so the havalon is loosing some of its appeal. I feel like that fresh from the package razor edge goes away pretty quickly. I'm not looking to do crazy things in the field as far as breaking the animal down goes; remove the hide, quarter, and sometimes debone.

I think I've heard people say that they have field processed an entire elk with a Benchmade Bugout - dunno if that is the best choice, but it sure is light and sturdy. I've been looking at the Bark River knives a lot and they have a lot of good products and stand behind them. I'm open to a fixed blade or folder. So if you were replacing a Havalon with a traditional knife, what would you choose?

Thanks!

 

[Sccritterkiller]

I just picked up a MKC speedgoat to replace my Havlon. Haven't had chance to try it out yet. Its light enough I plan on carrying both till I am comfortable.

 

[sndmn11]

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/BM375BK1/benchmade-375bk-1-shane-sibert-adamas-fixed-blade-knife-cruwear-cobalt-black-plain-blade-and-skeletonized-handle-black-injection-molded-sheath

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/BM150021/benchmade-hunt-saddle-mountain-skinner-fixed-blade-knife-42-s90v-drop-point-richliteorange-g10-handles-orangeblack-kydex-sheath

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SP134CFP2/spyderco-c134cfp2-gayle-bradley-2-folding-knife-cpm-m4-plain-blade-carbon-fiber-g10-laminate-handles

 

[justin davis]

I prefer real knives to replacement blade knives. I have a Spyderco that a friend built me. I’ve been testing out. And I have a bark river. I can do a whole elk with my bark river and it’s still sharp. I find it easier to use a real knife with a thick blade than the thin replacement blades knives.

I also have a Ironwill K1 knife. That is a sweet knife too. A2 steel and weighs 1 oz

 

[treillw]

I just picked up a MKC speedgoat to replace my Havlon. Haven't had chance to try it out yet. Its light enough I plan on carrying both till I am comfortable.

This looks very nice, but that paracord has to get skanky.

 

[treillw]

I prefer real knives to replacement blade knives. I have a Spyderco that a friend built me. I’ve been testing out. And I have a bark river. I can do a whole elk with my bark river and it’s still sharp. I find it easier to use a real knife with a thick blade than the thin replacement blades knives.

Which bark river?

 

[justin davis]

Which bark river?

I have a Fox river featherlite

 

[Sccritterkiller]

This looks very nice, but that paracord has to get skanky.

I thought that at first too but after unwrapping it it's not hard to rewrap plus you have some spare cord if you need it. It's made to be replaced.

 

[Beendare]

Del

 

[treillw]

You have so many good super steels to pick from. An S30v steel will do a whole elk and is pretty easy to sharpen. The S90v steels will do a couple animals but are a little tougher to sharpen.

Nothing is hard to sharpen if you have the right equipment. The Edge Pro with diamond stones sharpens everything easily.

My top 3 I use are all Benchmade ( because I get a deal-grin) Saddle mtn skinner S90v, Altitude S90v, Steep country S30v

.

Think the work sharp will handle super steels?

It tears through the steel faster than anything I've ever seen on typical knives.

 

[treillw]

Think the work sharp will handle super steels?

It tears through the steel faster than anything I've ever seen on typical knives.

Looks like some people are sharpening S110v with them from a quick search, but I don't know much about it.

 

[sndmn11]

Think the work sharp will handle super steels?

It tears through the steel faster than anything I've ever seen on typical knives.

Yes, I have done 90v, maxamet, Zmax, etc. It does fine. I think s30v is a few steps down from what I linked above. Depending on how you handle a knife around bone, some of the super sitting steels might not be the best choice and a cruwear/4v/pd1/zwear would be best. The folks I have sent knives out to with those types of steels seem to enjoy the best on game performance.

 

[wapitibob]

Partner did an Elk and an Antelope with a Benchmade altitude before it lost the edge.

 

[UtahJimmy]

I've been pretty happy with the ironwill K1. I've stopped carrying a replaceable blade (Gerber vital) and only carry the K1. Looks like they have listened to feedback and are now offering quite a few options. If I were to order one today I'd get one without the top blade and do the black ceramic coating. The A2 steel easily gets through an entire elk without needing a touch-up.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Adventurfreak]

I e been super impressed with the outdoor edge. The blades are a lot more durable but I still pack a benchmaade for cuts around bone

 

[treillw]

super sitting steels might not be the best choice

What are these? What is a sitting steel?

The folks I have sent knives out to with those types of steels seem to enjoy the best on game performance.

Do you make knives? ...or...?

 

[mcseal2]

The Dozier knives in D2 hold a great edge for game. Maybe a little toothier than a powdered super steel, but it cuts incredibly well.

I used a Pro Guide’s knife from them for several seasons and love it. I just had a custom one built almost like it. I love it so far. Basically a Pro Guide with a 90 degree spine for fires, 3V steel, and a high saber grind. It should be a little tougher than the hollow ground D2 Dozier for when I abuse it a bit. The Dozier never had an issue but there were jobs I would not do with it. I hunt some wet places where splitting wood to find the dry center makes carrying a little more knife worth it to me. PM me if you want more info.

Factory knives the Doziers, Benchmade Hunt series, Bradford 4.5 or 5.5 are high on my list. Battle Horse makes some great stuff but in a high carbon steel that rusts easy. With today’s steels I would choose a different one for hunting. I really like 3V because of it’s toughness. Lets me have a thinner blade that’s still capable of hard use.

Bark River makes some great knives. They are convex ground and a little different to sharpen. Also I had a couple where the very tip broke or deformed. If choosing a Bark River I’d get a model with a little beefier tip. The Bravo 1 LT Rampless is about the type of blade I prefer.

I have an Altitude with custom scales. To me it’s great for caping, skinning heads our for a euro mount, or as a back-up. It’s capable of a whole animal but I prefer a bigger knife. 4.5” blade is about right to me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sndmn11]

What are these? What is a sitting steel?

Do you make knives? ...or...?

It was supposed to say cutting, not sitting.

Maxamet, Zmax, s110v. Those are steels that seem to do best in the various semi scientific cutting tests. They also, as a generality, are more brittle. I have two Zmax Mules out, @justin davis above has one, the other is in WY. Both haven't been really head over heels for them, and that is how I feel about Maxamet as well.
There is a reason why knife junkies like steels that are good balance of cutting retention and toughness. You can find a Spyderco Para3 in Maxamet or S110v pretty easily, but it is really hard to turn up a 4v or cruwear. They cut well enough to accomplish the task at hand, and they don't have edge issues if an imperfect cutting motion or something hard is encountered.
A member here @feanor cut me a skinner from s90v and I have been very impressed with that steel between my experience with that and a Benchmade altitude. That is hard to say because I have not liked stainless based on early 2000s knives in s30v. I have one Mule out in s45vn that this season has three deer and bear on it, and surprisingly it was still sticky when he brought it by for me to touch up.
It sounds like maybe you have already, but the information on knife steel needs is pretty invaluable in getting the best bang for your buck. I'd tell you to grab a Mule in whatever steel balances the properties you value the most, but the shape isn't the best for a one knife field processing task.

 

[TheGDog]

You don't have to give up your Havalon. Just get one of their Dual-blade folders. It's Aus8 steel and seems to hold an edge very well. I have their Bone Collector one when they had a sale. Looks like it's a little bulkier then their Titan one. I'd probably get that Titan Dual blade folder next time.

I like to use the regular blade to remove forelimbs at the knee, and for removing the backstrap after I've made the initial vertical incision along the vertebrae. I like it for the subsequent cuts where you're kind of sliding along the rib bones to guide the knife along. And also when dealing with releasing the Atlas bone to free the head off.

Because when I was doing it with only just the scalpel blade it's a PITA because the rubbing against bone dulls the scalpels very quickly and then working thru cutting thru the thicker parts of the hide ya end up not making as nice of a straight line as you'd like to make, and it's ability to cut thru the bigger tendons goes down which makes the danger go up and ya end up having to change out to a new blade.

Personally I felt it helps a lot with saving time freeing the Atlas joint when using the regular blade, since with a scalpel blade you have to take your time and think "finesse" in that task, otherwise you jack-up the blade. AND.. that time savings was very appreciated where I was at because the Yellow Jackets come in to hassle ya, so the quicker you can finish the better.

 

[BeaverHunter]

I have a Fox river featherlite

Which one? Also I’m seeing some weights listed at under 3 ounces on them. Is that weight listed accurate ? Including the sheath. Sorry to hijack the thread.