Help Me with My Paper Tune

BigWoods

WKR
Joined
Jan 28, 2017
Messages
460
Location
NH
Now that the season is over, and I have a new release (Stan's Solex), I'm making sure my bow (Mathews Traverse) is tuned and starting back with paper.

My rest is set to center shot and the Left/right tear seems good. With that, I'm consistently getting a slight nock-down tear. I've moved the down up about 3/32nd (can do 1/32nd more); this has taken the tear from about 3/4" down to about 1/4" off.

Should I keep moving the rest a bit or look at something else?

Thanks!
 

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Not sure what we’re looking at in those pix. Maybe label them so we can tell which tear is the first and which is the last. Also, what rest are you using?

When I start tuning I check tiller and limb settings first. Then paper tune, then broadhead tune.
 
If you haven’t already done so, check cam timing to make sure both draw stops are hitting the cables at the same time before continuing to tune. If the draw stops are not in sync, twist the cables to advance/retard the cams as needed.

After cams are synced, adjust rest elevation and nocking point location so the arrow is running level through the Berger hole. Then check the paper tear and adjust rest/nocking point per the chart below.

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Not sure what we’re looking at in those pix. Maybe label them so we can tell which tear is the first and which is the last. Also, what rest are you using?

When I start tuning I check tiller and limb settings first. Then paper tune, then broadhead tune.
Hey Neighbor!...I'm over in NH.

The tear in the center of each picture is my final. On the earlier ones, the tip entered a bit higher. The rest is an QAD/Mathews Integrate.
 
If you haven’t already done so, check cam timing to make sure both draw stops are hitting the cables at the same time before continuing to tune. If the draw stops are not in sync, twist the cables to advance/retard the cams as needed.

After cams are synced, adjust rest elevation and nocking point location so the arrow is running level through the Berger hole. Then check the paper tear and adjust rest/nocking point per the chart below.

View attachment 993360
View attachment 993361
Cam timing was checked fairly recently (not sure if that can change without changing strings?). Assuming that's still in time, maybe I just need to bump the rest down a bit more.
 
Now that the season is over, and I have a new release (Stan's Solex), I'm making sure my bow (Mathews Traverse) is tuned and starting back with paper.

My rest is set to center shot and the Left/right tear seems good. With that, I'm consistently getting a slight nock-down tear. I've moved the down up about 3/32nd (can do 1/32nd more); this has taken the tear from about 3/4" down to about 1/4" off.

Should I keep moving the rest a bit or look at something else?

Thanks!
The only time I move the rest is when broadhead tuning. And then, only if the vertical difference at 30 yards is less than 2”. For other nock low/high adjustments, i remove the d-loop and twist the tied in nock sets up or down the string, and then re-tie a d-loop. The reason I do it this way is that it is my opinion that getting the nock position on the string in the optimal position increases the overall efficiency of the bow and arrow system. All that said, it’s not been uncommon for Mathews bows to need to start out 1/16” nock high. The Arc, however, tuned perfectly for me with the nock dead center. I could be mistaken, but I don’t think I’ve ever had a Mathews bow that did in fact end up with a final tune that was nock level.
 
Thanks all for the input and troubleshooting!

I took the bow into the shop today. Cam timing was good but the rest timing was off (cable too short). They fitted me with a longer release cable, reset the rest to center shot and now my tear is really close to a bullet hole (might need to bump the rest down 1/32" or so.
 
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