Help Me Join The Dark Side

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

I'm a trad guy. Always have been, always will be... but I have my first kid on the way and I'm looking to maximize my hunting and practice efficiency. Got a line on a used RX4 Ultra that's a bare bow and should handle my (tbd exactly) 31-32" draw length, and I'm going to try and see it in person first. Help me out with some free advice please!

First off:
What the heck should I be looking for in a used bow? What to check when I see it in person? Any red flags to watch out for?

Here's what I know/don't know:
1. I want a thumb release that can be set with a pretty high resistance. So long as it's adjustable, and smooth, I don't care about the finer details... what's the best bang for the buck in this arena, that satisfies those criteria?

2. The trad guy in me laughs at shooting critters past 50-60 yards, but I think I still want a 5 pin sight with slider... educate/convince me otherwise. I would like to practice way out past that just because... again, budget/durable recommendations appreciated

3. Arrow rest... I'm a hunter. I don't want it to fail. Leaning limb driven atm, and again, don't care about having THE BEST OMG, so long as I can depend on it to work every time, and I can make it quiet enough with moleskin. Recs?

4. Quiver? How is this even a debate with compounds? Seems like it should be super simple, but everyone seems to love one and hate another. Help me understand/pick one that's not too pricey

5. Stabliizers: LOL! For real? I'm actually thinking about putting extra weight on a bow? Leaning towards shooting it without anything first, and accessorizing as the summer goes along and I get used to the bow

6. Bow maintenance equipment: What do I need? What is just fluff and nice to have? Do I need a press for the RX4 Ultra?


Anyways, that's what I've got so far. Really trying to keep the accessory cost under $400 initial if possible, but tell me if I'm high on Snoops finest with that statement!

 

[JStol5]

I’ll tell you one thing- getting a quiver, rest, and sight for sub $400 is going to be very challenging. I would get over to archery talk and shop used.

 

[Billy Goat]

So much is personal preference. To me an easy one is the quiver, just get a 5 or 7 arrow original TightSpot.

Stabilizers...
I don't use them usually on a western hunting bow. That's going to be preference.

Rests, I like Qad personally. They can have issues at colder temps, like once you get into the teens. I hate to think how many shots I have on several different ones without issues. I have actually personally seen more issues with Hanskea, just from side to side play in the rod. Have a few friends that had to send some back, I don't think they were Trinity rests tho, they have 3 bearings I believe, and are supported better. I do have an Epsilon on my winter hunting bow. I'd stay away from rip cord. I don't have much experience outside of QAD, Hanskea, and Trophy Taker for hunting rests. I think any of those would be fine.

Sights you won't beat the durability of a Spot Hogg. I prefer the Tommy and Hogg Father, they are fully enclosed so nothing can get in there. The durability comes with a weight penalty. Black Gold makes a good sight, has probably the brightest pins available. HHA is another good option, I don't use them so can't comment too much on them. Any sight used for Mtn hunting I'd want to make sure it has 3rd axis adjustments.


Releases are really personal. For a run of the mill hunting release, I think the Spot Hogg Whipper snapper is pretty good. You should be able to set it pretty heavy. I think with Stan under new ownership the quality has gone downhill, but the older releases are top quality. Similar with Scott. I have been using a lot of B3 releases in the past 18 months now, been pretty happy with them bit they are pricey. Truball makes some good ones as well. Some buddies jumped on the Ultraview train, but have had issues with their buttons, the hinge is nice tho.


If you don't have a shop close by that you trust and can work with, I'd want a press.

 

[tdoublev]

In terms of what to look for when buying used, the main things would be the condition of the string, cams, and limbs. You won't ever know exactly how many shots have gone through a bow, but I'd build contingency into your budget to get new strings for the bow ($100+) unless it's advertised as coming with new ones. Other than that, make sure there's no cracks in the limbs and they don't appear to be bent or something funky there (i.e. pressed incorrectly). Same for cams.

In terms of maintenance, you will want a bow press to tune it yourself unless you have a reliable bow shop near by and are fine paying for it. Personally, I bought a Synunm bow press and it works great for me. Others will likely recommend EZ Green, but at $110 vs. $400 it was an easy decision for me. And it's portable. Although make sure the press is compatible with whatever bow you end up choosing. Some bows are not or require an additional attachment.

 

[JStol5]

Quiver- tight spots are very solid.
Release- I’m a big fan of Carter. You get what you pay for with releases, especially handhelds. Archery Talk is your friend here.
Stabilizers- try a 10 or 12 inch front bar.
Rest- also crucial. Had a ripcord fail on me. Switched to Hamskea and will never look back.

If you have the ability to take your time sourcing these, I would get on archery talk and be patient.

 

[Swampcruiser]

No big lookouts on the RX4 - just double check the limbs have no nicks or chipped edges. The Hoyt limbs with hard edges tend to Nick easily and you get splinters. You might want to consider a press at some point, those hybrid cams need timing occasionally and what I really love is tuning with yokes.

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

Okay, time to reveal my ignorance... what the heck is third axis?

 

[Billy Goat]

Okay, time to reveal my ignorance... what the heck is third axis?

Basically if you aim up and down hill, your bubble can show out of level when it isn't. That pushes your shots left and right.

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

Basically if you aim up and down hill, your bubble can show out of level when it isn't. That pushes your shots left and right.

So how is this resolved? Is it integral to the sight construction?

 

[Billy Goat]

So how is this resolved? Is it integral to the sight construction?

Yes.

Probably easier to send a link on how to adjust it, and what it's doing then to try to explain it.

 

[Billy Goat]

Yes.

Probably easier to send a link on how to adjust it, and what it's doing then to try to explain it.

Here's a RS article on it.

The Mysteries of 3rd Axis in Archery

Third Axis Adjustment. Over the past 10-12 years, I have seen these words come up more and more. It has become a staple among the target and western hunters alike. But what is it? What does it do? Why is it important to me as an archer and hunter? What is 3rd Axis? Some may […]

www.rokslide.com

I set 3rd axis with the Hamskea tool. Then shoot it to double le check. Ultimately it's shooting it is how you know it's correct. Before the fancy little level contraption, we just shot them in anyways.

 

[JStol5]

shoot me a PM if you want to talk about this stuff on the phone- love talking archery.

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

Here's a RS article on it.

The Mysteries of 3rd Axis in Archery

Third Axis Adjustment. Over the past 10-12 years, I have seen these words come up more and more. It has become a staple among the target and western hunters alike. But what is it? What does it do? Why is it important to me as an archer and hunter? What is 3rd Axis? Some may […]

www.rokslide.com

I set 3rd axis with the Hamskea tool. Then shoot it to double le check. Ultimately it's shooting it is how you know it's correct. Before the fancy little level contraption, we just shot them in anyways.

Okay, that's pretty simple to understand with the pictures and everything.

 

[silasbowhunter]

Sight- Montana Black Gold Ascent
Rest- Trophy Taker Smackdown
Stabilizer/quiver- I love my quivalizer haha

These are all what I’m using and I’m positive you can find em used for under $400.
Like stated before, used classifieds on here and Archerytalk are your friend. Send me a message if you have any questions I’d love to chat about it and help you out!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TheTone]

Rest: I really like my Hamskea hybring hunter, it’s essy to service and has worked every time for me. Plenty quiet

Quiver: I’d buy a hoyt two piece. It will almost certainly be the quietest and most solid mount you’ll get with that bow.

Release: I’m planning to switch to a thumb release and am basically down to a Carter wise choice or a truball trident flex. I like that the cocking lever closes the jaw on the Carter as well as the finger hole. The truball seems to have lots of adjustment and the jaw reset seems very convenient from a Hunting perspective

 

[JStol5]

Rest: I really like my Hamskea hybring hunter, it’s way to service and has worked every time for me. Plenty quiet

Quiver: I’d buy a hoyt two piece. It will almost certainly be the quietest and most solid mount you’ll get with that bow.

Release: I’m planning to switch to a thumb release and am basically down to a Carter wise choice or a truball trident flex. I like that the cocking lever closes the jaw on the Carter as well as the finger hole. The truball seems to have lots of adjustment and the jaw reset seems very convenient from a Hunting perspective

I shoot a wise choice and a nock 2 it. Being able to hang your release on the d loop is so nice. Especially hunting from a blind.

 

[MightyWhitey]

Have you considered shooting it instinctively like you do your trad bows?
Buy a $120 QAD hdx rest and start shooting it. I’ve been shooting a compound instinctive for 20+ years. I think you’d like it, it’s the best of both worlds and you don’t have to worry about buying all the other crap.

And I agree with the Hoyt 2 piece quiver.

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

Have you considered shooting it instinctively like you do your trad bows?
Buy a $120 QAD hdx rest and start shooting it. I’ve been shooting a compound instinctive for 20+ years. I think you’d like it, it’s the best of both worlds and you don’t have to worry about buying all the other crap.

And I agree with the Hoyt 2 piece quiver.

I've thought about it... but I don't shoot instinctive, I'm a gap shooter. Not real wild about trying to use an arrow point to aim with compound speeds.

 

[MightyWhitey]

Understandable.

 

[nphunter]

Great bow, if it’s well taken care of you can normally tell and vise versa.

Rest QAD, especially for a hunting rest, best containment and reliability there is. I have limb driven rests as well and wouldn’t put one on my hunting bow.

Tight spot, a used 5 arrow, I have one of their originals from 10yrs ago and it’s still perfect.

I would skip the stabilizer unless you feel like you struggle with accuracy, they will help stabilize the bow, but also mask form errors. Get so you can shoot well without a stabilizer and then put one on if you feel the need. I’ve got several and 99% of the time I hunt without one.

I love CBE sights, the a used Tek Hybrid would be tough to beat. Well built and light, the new Trek Pros are great too but more expensive.

A press is nice but not needed. A cheaper cable or pulley press with do most of the same stuff. You can set up your bow, center shot, rest and nock height with a 12” level and don’t need any special tools.