HELP ME CHOOSE AN ARROW WEIGHT/BROADHEAD SETUP

757mcalea

FNG
Joined
Jan 5, 2026
Messages
6
Location
Virginia
Hello everyone!!

Looking for some guidance on choosing a new arrow/broadhead setup for next season.

Bought a used Matthew's Vertix as my first bow, got it re strung with fresh GAS strings. Sitting at 29" draw and shooting 60 lbs for now, at least until my form gets dialed in. Hunting whitetail in southeast US so most of my shots will be within 35 yards.

Research points me to the Victory RIP TKO Gamer for arrow but unsure of weights, inserts, grains, broadhead combos etc.

Thanks in advance!
 
I would get 2 dozen RIP TKO in 300 spine cut to 27.5

First dozen:
stock inserts
DCA Mini Sabre vanes at 2 degrees offset
QAD Exodus or Grim Reaper Hades broadheads

and shoot the first dozen til they all break, then

Second dozen:
change what you didn't like about the first dozen

Weight doesn't matter much, FoC doesn't matter at all. (Look at a cross-section of Hornady's ELD-VT bullet and then try to argue FoC makes any difference in flight)

Taking good shots and hitting where you're aiming are the only actual important parts.
 
Victory arrows are amazing arrows. There are a few things to consider with all types of arrows. Some are rolled carbon while others are woven carbon. The rolled carbon has to be sanded down so each arrow might weigh a few grains differently. On victory arrows there is normally a batch weight on the upc sticker. When getting multiple boxes make sure the batch weight is as close as possible that way all of the arrows will fly the same.

Picking broad heads you will get 100 different these are the best ones out there. Fix blade work great for low poundage or if you want something that can blow through bone. Down side they are limited to blade cutting diameter so you need to be more accurate with your shot placement. Mechanical you have forward or rear deploying each has their plus and minuses. Your best option is to watch reviews on how the blade preform and pick what you like, shoot them if you like the results.

Arrow builds can be a very deep rabbit hole getting opinions from others is great, but ultimately testing and getting the results for yourself is all that matters.

My arrow build might work great for me but might not work for you. Right now I’m running the Easton 5.0 250 spine with a 50 grain HIT insert and the Grime reaper. I love how I have the hit power while keeping the speed up. I’ve also have a set of Easton Axis stock addition, Easton FMJ, a couple different sets of Victory arrows. As you can see I have tried a few different arrow setups and a few different brands trying to find what shoots the best out of my bow. You might have to do the same.


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Hunting whitetail at close range with a 29”/60# modern compound bow, you could shoot pretty much any arrow you can dream up with good success.

My suggestion for a strong, simple, relatively inexpensive hunting arrow would be a standard diameter (.245”/6.5mm) shaft of moderate gpi (grains per inch) cut an inch shorter than your draw length, 3 high profile vanes (Bohning Blazer or similar), unlighted nock, 100 gr broadhead, and whatever weight insert you need to get to 6-7 gpp (grains of total arrow weight per pound of draw weight). Black Eagle Outlaw, Easton 6.5mm, Gold Tip Hunter, and Victory VForce shafts would all fit that recipe well. 340/350 spine would suffice if you stay at 60#. 300 spine would be a better choice if you plan to go up to 70#.
 
This is almost exactly my arrow build for my Matthew’s vertix with a 29” draw. QAD exodus 100gr or sevr 1.5. I use the elites but gamer will save you a few bucks.
Get that bow tuned and shoot it every day. It’s a great setup.
 
This is almost exactly my arrow build for my Matthew’s vertix with a 29” draw. QAD exodus 100gr or sevr 1.5. I use the elites but gamer will save you a few bucks.
Get that bow tuned and shoot it every day. It’s a great setup.
What poundage are ya set at? What grain are ya shooting? Thanks for the reply!
 
Hello everyone!!

Looking for some guidance on choosing a new arrow/broadhead setup for next season.

Bought a used Matthew's Vertix as my first bow, got it re strung with fresh GAS strings. Sitting at 29" draw and shooting 60 lbs for now, at least until my form gets dialed in. Hunting whitetail in southeast US so most of my shots will be within 35 yards.

Research points me to the Victory RIP TKO Gamer for arrow but unsure of weights, inserts, grains, broadhead combos etc.

Thanks in advance!
The RIP TKO are great, but I would suggest something lighter like the HLR. I’d build an arrow to around 400 grains with a decent FOC (disagree that it doesn’t benefit) of somewhere around 15%.

The Sevr mentioned would be good, or a G5 Deadmeat. I’d do whichever one in 125 grains as you get a little beefier of a head.
 
The RIP TKO are great, but I would suggest something lighter like the HLR. I’d build an arrow to around 400 grains with a decent FOC (disagree that it doesn’t benefit) of somewhere around 15%.

The Sevr mentioned would be good, or a G5 Deadmeat. I’d do whichever one in 125 grains as you get a little beefier of a head.
wouldn't lighter be better for higher draw weights? just wondering!
 
Hunting whitetail at close range with a 29”/60# modern compound bow, you could shoot pretty much any arrow you can dream up with good success.

My suggestion for a strong, simple, relatively inexpensive hunting arrow would be a standard diameter (.245”/6.5mm) shaft of moderate gpi (grains per inch) cut an inch shorter than your draw length, 3 high profile vanes (Bohning Blazer or similar), unlighted nock, 100 gr broadhead, and whatever weight insert you need to get to 6-7 gpp (grains of total arrow weight per pound of draw weight). Black Eagle Outlaw, Easton 6.5mm, Gold Tip Hunter, and Victory VForce shafts would all fit that recipe well. 340/350 spine would suffice if you stay at 60#. 300 spine would be a better choice if you plan to go up to 70#.
would there be a disadvantage for 350 spine at 70 lbs?
 
wouldn't lighter be better for higher draw weights? just wondering!
Lighter GPI/Spine ratio makes it easier to put more weight on the front without ending up with a heavy slow arrow.

If putting 200 grains on the tip of a 400 grain arrow isn't something you think is super important, you have the option of choosing a more durable arrow relative to the spine.

would there be a disadvantage for 350 spine at 70 lbs?

Yes it'll be harder to tune
 
would there be a disadvantage for 350 spine at 70 lbs?
350 spine could be on the weak side (i.e., the arrow flexes too much during the shot) at 70 lbs depending on how long you cut the arrow and how much weight you put on the front end. Proper spine is primarily a function of draw weight, arrow length, and front end weight. Speed rating of the bow and rear end arrow weight also have an effect. Heavier DW, longer arrow, more front end weight, faster bow, or less rear end weight = stiffer spine needed (i.e., lower 3 digit spine number). Weak spine typically manifests as inconsistent flight with broadheads. Conventional wisdom is to err on the stiff side if in doubt. Victory has a pretty decent spine calculator on their website: https://www.victoryarchery.com/arrow-guide/
 
I would get 2 dozen RIP TKO in 300 spine cut to 27.5

First dozen:
stock inserts
DCA Mini Sabre vanes at 2 degrees offset
QAD Exodus or Grim Reaper Hades broadheads

and shoot the first dozen til they all break, then

Second dozen:
change what you didn't like about the first dozen

Weight doesn't matter much, FoC doesn't matter at all. (Look at a cross-section of Hornady's ELD-VT bullet and then try to argue FoC makes any difference in flight)

Taking good shots and hitting where you're aiming are the only actual important parts.
is offset the same as helical?
 
gotcha. and when you say 2 degree offset, which direction would that be, left or right?
Dealers choice. Some say match it to what direction your bow naturally clocks the nock coming off the string, but I've mixed both left and right offset in the same quiver and they hit the same spot out to 85 yards so I don't think it matters.
 
is offset the same as helical?
Both helical and offset configurations result in vanes following a helical path along the arrow. "Helical" typically means that a curved clamp was used in the fletching jig to bend the vane into a helix. "Offset" typically means that a straight clamp was used and oriented at an angle to the long axis of the arrow. A straight line affixed to a cylinder at an angle to the long axis by definition forms a helix, so either way the vanes end up in a helical orientation.

"Helical" fletching generally implies a greater helical angle (usually 4-5°) than "offset" fletching (usually 1-3°). A greater helical angle orients more of the vanes' surface area perpendicular to the flight path and thus creates more drag. More drag means more steering ability but also slightly more speed loss at distance and possibly more noise in flight. Don’t fret over the vane angle…as long as the vanes aren’t straight (i.e., 0° helical angle), you’ll be fine.
 
Get onto podiums website and use their calculator.
Enter all of your information, and then study the chart. At some point on the chart your KE will peak before beginning it's downturn.
That will be YOUR arrow setup. And every person will have a different number. Don't copy someone else's setup, because their numbers will never match your own.

Screenshot_20260108_150436_Chrome~2.jpg
 
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