Help LS Wild design the new stock!

[wind gypsy]

Maybe for bolt removal clearance?

My comment was based upon the original rendering not the mark up. The curve i'm talking about opposes the negative slope and creates less bolt clearance.

I think if the comb is as high as @Bluumoon's markup, dudes who get the lowest rings possible might not like how high the comb is. No skin off my back but most hunters still default to mounting a scope as low as possible.

 

[Schmo]

My comment was based upon the original rendering not the mark up. The curve i'm talking about opposes the negative slope and creates less bolt clearance.

I think if the comb is as high as @Bluumoon's markup, dudes who get the lowest rings possible might not like how high the comb is. No skin off my back but most hunters still default to mounting a scope as low as possible.

I had a Rokstok for a short time. I know plenty of guys here love them, but I could not warm up to the exaggerated comb height and slope. Just felt awkward. Trust me, I wanted to love it after ordering it & waiting for longer than the quoted lead time.

 

[Bluumoon]

What does the Master Sporter stock weigh? I've seen estimates of 42-48 ounces? Is that accurate?

I think my Walnut one is 54oz? The butt pad assembly is heavy, cheek riser hardware adds a little weight as well
.

 

[43.6N]

I did a solid walnut copy of the McMillan MTLR last fall. It weighed 37.9oz with the butt pad.
Similar length and ergos to what is being discussed here.
With the stock hollowed out, I think ~35ish oz is reasonable.
.

 

[Bluumoon]

My comment was based upon the original rendering not the mark up. The curve i'm talking about opposes the negative slope and creates less bolt clearance.

I think if the comb is as high as @Bluumoon's markup, dudes who get the lowest rings possible might not like how high the comb is. No skin off my back but most hunters still default to mounting a scope as low as possible

I find myself preferring higher cheek rests to get a repeatable sight picture and not get neck pain when shooting a bit. I'd guess I'd want more than 3/16" overbore (everyone is different and easier to add), I'll try to measure where I'm at on a couple different stocks.

 

[wind gypsy]

I find myself preferring higher cheek rests to get a repeatable sight picture and not get neck pain when shooting a bit. I'd guess I'd want more than 3/16" overbore (everyone is different and easier to add), I'll try to measure where I'm at on a couple different stocks.

But do you mount you scopes low as well?

 

[Bluumoon]

But do you mount you scopes low as well?

Yes either low or medium rings (no preference ) in conjunction with the RS and Bravo. The MS stocks also get low rings, but they have a rail. Attached is MS setup for me.

 

[Bluumoon]

This one was previously too aggressive over bore at cheek contact and I had to lower it.

 

[Schmo]

I'd guess I'd want more than 3/16" overbore

We are at 1/4” above bore centerline on the current config.

 

[Chris in TN]

My comment was based upon the original rendering not the mark up. The curve i'm talking about opposes the negative slope and creates less bolt clearance.

Speaking of bolt clearance....

If I was doing a one-off for my own personal use (which this thread is dangerously close to inspiring me to do) and trying to maximize space near the front of the comb, it crossed my mind that a guy could bench-grind 1/8" off the back of a Tikka bolt shroud then grind maybe 1/4" off the cocking indicator and it would still be visible when cocked. Maybe put a dab of white paint (more visible than red) on it. Or red with a white stripe. Point being, there's no mechanical reason that cocking indicator *HAS TO* stick out as much as it does.

Just thinking out loud. Might buy you another fraction of an inch of an ideal cheek fit.

Also, I dropped a decent sized Honey Locust last winter and I am strongly considering cutting a slab to dry and make a blank from which to form a custom cheek-top for a Boyd's Pro Varmint. If I know myself, it'll look like a bad third-grader copy of what others have done here, but it'll be functional.

I see a generic recoil pad material is available on Amazon for like $11 and I could cut a larger pad then grind for a good fit and make it cover the entire butt, I think.

 

[wind gypsy]

Speaking of bolt clearance....

If I was doing a one-off for my own personal use (which this thread is dangerously close to inspiring me to do) and trying to maximize space near the front of the comb, it crossed my mind that a guy could bench-grind 1/8" off the back of a Tikka bolt shroud then grind maybe 1/4" off the cocking indicator and it would still be visible when cocked. Maybe put a dab of white paint (more visible than red) on it. Or red with a white stripe. Point being, there's no mechanical reason that cocking indicator *HAS TO* stick out as much as it does.

Just thinking out loud. Might buy you another fraction of an inch of an ideal cheek fit.

I have a short neck.. but I find i have more an issue being off the BACK of the comb (on guns with cheek risers) than too far forward. Do people actually have issues wanting to put their cheek all the way forward to where the bolt extends to?

Seems like you're solving for something that is not an issue.

 

[Chris in TN]

I have a short neck.. but I find i have more an issue being off the BACK of the comb (on guns with cheek risers) than too far forward. Do people actually have issues wanting to put their cheek all the way forward to where the bolt extends to?

Seems like you're solving for something that is not an issue.

It's not an issue for me but it does seem like when stock designs are discussed, there's always a caveat about being able to remove the bolt from the rifle, and it just occurred to me that a guy could alleviate that (theoretical, I guess) problem by a bit, by trimming the cocking indicator.

 

[wind gypsy]

It's not an issue for me but it does seem like when stock designs are discussed, there's always a caveat about being able to remove the bolt from the rifle, and it just occurred to me that a guy could alleviate that (theoretical, I guess) problem by a bit, by trimming the cocking indicator.

Yeah, it seems like a cosmetic concern - stock designers seem to cut it close when there is a higher comb but I dont know anyone who actually puts their face that far forward on the comb.. I assume they cut it close on the bolt clearance front for aesthetic reasons?

 

[Bluumoon]

It's not an issue for me but it does seem like when stock designs are discussed, there's always a caveat about being able to remove the bolt from the rifle, and it just occurred to me that a guy could alleviate that (theoretical, I guess) problem by a bit, by trimming the cocking indicator.

I’d notch the stock before I’d go messing w the bolt.

 

[Chris in TN]

So, you guys doing custom on your Boyd’s pro varmint stocks…..

Would you buy a small blank online for the new cheek strip?

Asking because I cut a honey locust last fall for firewood and I could easily go quarter saw a blank from it and could probably dry it. This sounds good in my head but that’s no guarantee of a positive outcome. I also have a small piece of persimmon but it may be too short.

 

[alexnelon]

So, you guys doing custom on your Boyd’s pro varmint stocks…..

Would you buy a small blank online for the new cheek strip?

Asking because I cut a honey locust last fall for firewood and I could easily go quarter saw a blank from it and could probably dry it. This sounds good in my head but that’s no guarantee of a positive outcome. I also have a small piece of persimmon but it may be too short.

I'd grab a scrap piece of cutoff 2x4 from lowes and mock it up before I would worry about what the final product will be made from.

That said, Honey locust is fine as long as your tools are sharp. It has a tendency to tear out if you're not careful so I would use more of a chisel & draw knife approach vs rasps and belt sanders for shaping.

 

[Chris in TN]

I'd grab a scrap piece of cutoff 2x4 from lowes and mock it up before I would worry about what the final product will be made from.

That said, Honey locust is fine as long as your tools are sharp. It has a tendency to tear out if you're not careful so I would use more of a chisel & draw knife approach vs rasps and belt sanders for shaping.

Thank you. I have the scraps. I was thinking down the road of 'I assume this works, so what then?'. But it's definitely good to know that Honey Locust might tend to tear out, because I'm exactly the sort of person who'll try to get in a hurry and lose a chunk that way.

 

[NDHUNTER24]

@Schmo sorry if I missed it, is there a timeline your targeting?