Help - How to choose the right hunting arrow

[Rusty Shackelford]

Like the title says I never learned the right approach to selecting the correct arrow, type, and spine. Just got a new bow, Mathews Arc 34 with a 28.5” draw, 70lbs.

For the last 10-15 years I’ve been shooting Easton axis with a 300 spine, 28” arrow 75 grain insert and 100 grain tip or broadhead. Total arrow weight is 492 grains. Yesterday I chrono’d this arrow out of my new bow at 267fps. I was a little surprised at that seemingly low speed.

I’m looking to make sure I have the right arrow for my set up. So school me, how do I approach finding the right arrow?

 

[Bump79]

Like the title says I never learned the right approach to selecting the correct arrow, type, and spine. Just got a new bow, Mathews Arc 34 with a 28.5” draw, 70lbs.

For the last 10-15 years I’ve been shooting Easton axis with a 300 spine, 28” arrow 75 grain insert and 100 grain tip or broadhead. Total arrow weight is 492 grains. Yesterday I chrono’d this arrow out of my new bow at 267fps. I was a little surprised at that seemingly low speed.

I’m looking to make sure I have the right arrow for my set up. So school me, how do I approach finding the right arrow?

If it's been effective and you have plenty of arrows, I wouldn't change a thing.

I do a lot of custom builds. Generally, I recommend around 420-450 grains for your specs. Which is very typical. If it was me - I wouldn't change anything if you've got money invested. But if I needed another dozen I'd build a set a hair lighter. Hit me up if you need some

 

[Billy Goat]

Its all pretty personal. Of course, I prefer a faster arrow. Robby and I talked about some of the benefits at one point.

It depends on how you hunt.

Whitetail hunters who don't shoot past 30 yards, load up the arrow weight. Quiets stuff down usually, makes tuning easier.


Western hunting, or where you are shooting further, I think you are better being a little lighter, into the 280's at minimum.

You can use your current setup, and drop the 75 gr insert to a hit insett, and pick up 20 fps.

 

[Rusty Shackelford]

If it's been effective and you have plenty of arrows, I wouldn't change a thing.

I do a lot of custom builds. Generally, I recommend around 420-450 grains for your specs. Which is very typical. If it was me - I wouldn't change anything if you've got money invested. But if I needed another dozen I'd build a set a hair lighter. Hit me up if you need some

Its all pretty personal. Of course, I prefer a faster arrow. Robby and I talked about some of the benefits at one point.

It depends on how you hunt.

Whitetail hunters who don't shoot past 30 yards, load up the arrow weight. Quiets stuff down usually, makes tuning easier.


Western hunting, or where you are shooting further, I think you are better being a little lighter, into the 280's at minimum.

You can use your current setup, and drop the 75 gr insert to a hit insett, and pick up 20 fps.

Interesting. I only hunt in the west, and am used to longer range shots. But I was always told the heavier the arrow the better. What's the logic behind a heavier arrow?

 

[Billy Goat]

What's the logic behind a heavier arrow?

Heavier should be better in wind, but it also has longer time of flight, so is subject to more wind at a point.

Should penetrate better, all things being equal, but I think in changing around 90 gr (410gr to 500gr) its going to be kinda minimal the difference, and that's gonna be about 30 fps at your specs. I shoot 290 fps better than I shoot 260.

Heavier is usually easier to tune, tho it's not weight, just slower. 250fps isn't a picky as 290fps.

 

[ATL]

For western hunting where longer shots are expected, a lighter arrow could increase your effectiveness. 300 spine 5mm or 6mm shaft cut to approximately 27”, weighing 8.5-9 grains/inch, with 150-160 grains total upfront, and lighter fletch (5-7 grains each), will get you a balanced built arrow that would serve you well. Total arrow weight of 410-430 grains. Velocity would be 280-290’s fps.

Easton Sonic 6.0 300 would be a great shaft choice. BE Spartan too. I prefer 6mm for the flanged insert systems.

Choose a well constructed/very sharp/reasonable cut diameter (1”-1 3/4”) broadhead, and tune to obtain perfect arrow flight, to assist with penetration.

For fixed blade I prefer Slick Trick Standard (incredible penetration on several Elk), and for mechanical the Sevr 1.5” have been great. Others I would be interested in include D6 Verse, GR Fatal Steel 1.25”, Rage Black Series +P, Rage Hypo 2 +P, GR Micro Hades. Many other heads with similar attributes would likely perform well too.

 

[Bump79]

Interesting. I only hunt in the west, and am used to longer range shots. But I was always told the heavier the arrow the better. What's the logic behind a heavier arrow?

It's a case of diminishing returns and it's definitely not the case heavier = better. Everyone's situation is different, even out west.

In order to pick an arrow that bucks the wind the best you want a 4mm arrow with a low drag 3 fletch broadhead and 15-18% FOC. Less drag and less surface area. A heavier 4mm shaft will buck the wind better but a heavier arrow will have more range error. Every hunter needs to evaluate their circumstances and determine what will be the most effective.

For me personally, I have tested and tried out so many combos. I come back to effectively the same build every year for 7 years running. A 4mm lightweight GPI shaft with 75-80 Titanium component, 100 grain fixed broadhead and a 3 fletch without a wrap. This put me right around 435-450 and moves around 290-295 fps.

My weakest trait in archery is range estimation, which is a vertical error. Animals at times drop at the sound of the bow/arrow, more vertical error. What's above and below the vital v? Bone. So why would I increase the chances of hitting a bone to theoretically get a marginal increase in penetration in case I do hit bone? Archery is a probability game about forgiveness. A lighter arrow that avoids bone will out penetrate a heavier one that hits it.

I tackle penetration is broadhead design - not mass. Tackle range error with mass. Tackle durability with quality materials. Tackle arrow flight with proper spine, decent FOC (by product of components/broadhead) and good vanes.

 

[5MilesBack]

Yep. Over the last 20 years I've had exactly two issues.......bad range estimation, and hitting unseen twigs etc that aren't in my line of sight to the vitals.......i.e. trajectory issues. Now, I've been blessed with a long draw so it's real easy to get 280ish fps with a 500+ grain arrow. But I can also drop the arrow weight, drop draw weight, and still gain some speed to help with both of my problems.......and still have plenty of arrow to do the job. I'm currently shooting RIP TKO 250's at 420gr or 445gr depending on point weight. And they shoot very well with BH's even at 300fps.

I would try a couple of the RIP TKO's to see how you like them, and how they shoot for you. They're a much lighter shaft than the Axis, but for me have been very durable with that weaved carbon.

 

[Rusty Shackelford]

It's a case of diminishing returns and it's definitely not the case heavier = better. Everyone's situation is different, even out west.

In order to pick an arrow that bucks the wind the best you want a 4mm arrow with a low drag 3 fletch broadhead and 15-18% FOC. Less drag and less surface area. A heavier 4mm shaft will buck the wind better but a heavier arrow will have more range error. Every hunter needs to evaluate their circumstances and determine what will be the most effective.

For me personally, I have tested and tried out so many combos. I come back to effectively the same build every year for 7 years running. A 4mm lightweight GPI shaft with 75-80 Titanium component, 100 grain fixed broadhead and a 3 fletch without a wrap. This put me right around 435-450 and moves around 290-295 fps.

My weakest trait in archery is range estimation, which is a vertical error. Animals at times drop at the sound of the bow/arrow, more vertical error. What's above and below the vital v? Bone. So why would I increase the chances of hitting a bone to theoretically get a marginal increase in penetration in case I do hit bone? Archery is a probability game about forgiveness. A lighter arrow that avoids bone will out penetrate a heavier one that hits it.

I tackle penetration is broadhead design - not mass. Tackle range error with mass. Tackle durability with quality materials. Tackle arrow flight with proper spine, decent FOC (by product of components/broadhead) and good vanes.

This is great, thank you. Can you suggest an arrow setup that meets the specs you mentioned?

 

[Bump79]

This is great, thank you. Can you suggest an arrow setup that meets the specs you mentioned?

If I was you, I'd do a 5mm arrow as it's going to be the lowest cost vs performance. If you want to spend more - you can in theory reduce with wind drift with a 4mm. But then 4mm components kind of suck, so you'd need Titanium to get it strong. $$$

I'd build you a Terra Firma Sicario or Easton 5.0 Match Grade with a 50 grain steel HIT & Collar. They are comparable shafts with the Sicario being an insanely good arrow at low cost and the Easton made in the USA.