Having trouble shooting my helix broaheads

[SoDakGuy]

So I'm trying helix broad heads for the first time and they are shooting around 6 inches left from where my field tips are at 30 yards. I've had other fixed blades and had great results. Any input?

 

[Bowhuntr64]

If that's the case, and you are hitting consistently in that area, then it is either a spine issue or a tuning issue. Your field tips are more forgiving so they will not reveal such problems. Helix heads fly very well, so you can be sure it's not the head. I would first check the spine charts for your set up, then work on paper tuning, or walk back tuning, or even better yet--bare shaft tuning. Then, given good grip and form, your broadheads will shoot with your field points. Mine hit the same at 100 yards.

 

[SoDakGuy]

Well that's good to know. My form is pretty good I think.. I'm shooting pretty good out to 60 yards with field tips. I bought 300 spine arrows as I was shooting 75lbs but do to a little soreness I turned it down. Not sure what its at now but it is a 70 to 80 pound defiant. Not sure what they actually go down to... So maybe it has to do with the spine? I'll have to start checking some of the things you listed though thanks a lot for the help.

 

[zacha79]

What's your insert/point weight at? Arrow Length and Draw length?

As mentioned above, bareshaft tuning will show any tuning flaws, but only as long as form is good. I'm a big fan of bareshaft tuning then walk back tuning.

 

[doverpack12]

Move your rest a very small amount (less than 1/16") to the left or if your bow has the ability let the cables move closer to the arrow a little. If that gets worse and it will for some then go a small amount to the right with the rest.

 

[OR Archer]

Are your arrows fletched to match the single bevel on the broadheads?

 

[SoDakGuy]

My insert weight is 100 grains points are 100 also. Arrows are 29 inches for a total arrow weight of 436 grains. My draw length is 28 1\2 I believe. Bare shaft tuning is just taking the point out and tuning? Also I have no idea if they are fletched to match. Boy I've got a couple things to check now lol. Thanks guys.

 

[doverpack12]

Start by moving the rest and seeing if it improves. If you are grouping broadheads and grouping field points just in two different impact points all you need to do is move those together. Moving your rest accomplishes this the vast majority of the time. You will have to move your sight after you move your rest but get the two hitting together first or very close before you move your sight.

 

[Buffalomtn]

Bare shaft tuning is shooting a field point tipped arrow but no fletching on the arrow. Take two arrows and slice the fletching off, OK to leave the base of the fletching on the shaft. You want at least two bare shafts so that you can see if you are getting repeatable results with them. Also,it is possible that the bare shafts may not hit together even with perfect form because of them having slightly different spine. If that is the case turn the nocks a quarter turn on one of them until it hits with the other. Start at 10 yards with the bare shafts and field points. If the bare haft hits right of the field points, move the rest slightly right and repeat. If your bow has yokes, instead of moving the rest put a twist in the left yoke and take one out of the right. If the bare shaft hits low move the rest up slightly. Once you gain confidence work your way back to 20 yards. If the bare shafts and Fletched hit together at 20 yards your broadheads will also, assuming they spin true on the arrow.

 

[chasewild]

I shoot the left offset AAE Max vane with a Left bevel helix. Total weight is 415 grains from a 27.5 inch draw at 64 LBS. The Helix hit exactly with my field tips but I had to adjust my rest because the broadheads showed a tuning issue. Moved my rest about 1/16th of an inch. Shot lights out after that.

Great Broadhead though.

 

[SoDakGuy]

So I stopped by the bow shop today and shot paper just 3 feet away with a bare shaft and it was perfect. He said if its good there that's all that matters? I shot paper at home from around 10 yards and they were not making perfect holes, just a few did. But they did seem to tear some what consistent. According to him the arrow will correct its self down range ? Any thoughts on that?

 

[Jimbob]

That's why bare shaft will reveal tuning issues, a bare shaft cannot correct itself. Also this is why a broad head shows tuning issues. When the arrow does not fly perfect the blades of a broad head plane in the air and cause the arrow to track off target.

Follow buffalomnt's instructions for bare shaft tuning.

 

[SoDakGuy]

Alright, so just to make sure I understand... I'm looking to get a perfect hole at 20 yards with an un fletched arrow to Pretty much have a perfectly tuned bow? By the way thanks for all the help every one!

 

[doverpack12]

You are trying to get field points and Broadheads to hit together. Shoot them and make adjustments accordingly. Generally a bareshaft is a good indicator of broadhead flight but they can also be tough to shoot consistently and just because a bareshaft shoots doesn't mean a broadhead will.

 

[SoDakGuy]

Well I took a the second half of the day today and shot about a thousand arrows but I've got my broad head hitting a little over 2 inches high at 40 yards. Hopefully I can make that adjustment somewhat quick. I learned a lot doing this though and I'm glad I did it thanks to all you guys!

 

[Buffalomtn]

Well I took a the second half of the day today and shot about a thousand arrows but I've got my broad head hitting a little over 2 inches high at 40 yards. Hopefully I can make that adjustment somewhat quick. I learned a lot doing this though and I'm glad I did it thanks to all you guys!

Now move your rest down slightly and see if they come together. Just a little movement of the rest since you are only off two inches at 40 yards.

 

[SoDakGuy]

Now move your rest down slightly and see if they come together. Just a little movement of the rest since you are only off two inches at 40 yards.

Thanks I'll give it a try tomorrow for sure. Still kind of blows my mind the guys at the bow shop don't know Any of this.

 

[cooperjd]

Thanks I'll give it a try tomorrow for sure. Still kind of blows my mind the guys at the bow shop don't know Any of this.

This is why i bought my own press and made my own draw board and learned as much as possible about tuning. it's much more satisfying to DIY, and you learn a ton in the process, and save a lot of driving time.

it is my understanding, and i could be wrong... that a bareshaft will show you when you have a pretty well tuned bow, good form, and good nock travel. shoot your bare shaft at 3 feet, and punch your release, or grip your bow, and see how big of a tear you get. your form is critical to shooting a bare shaft. i haven't shot a bare shaft through paper in a long time, i just shoot it at 20 yards and adjust things until it groups with my fletched arrows. then i move to 30..but make sure your form is really good and consistent to do that. then for broadheads it usually only takes teeny tiny adjustments to the rest position.

broadheads will make you fine tune your rest position to make sure you have the best launch angle possible. since there are big wings on the front of the arrow, if the launch angle is off a bit, your vanes cannot correct in time to make sure the bh's and fp's have the same POI downrange. tiny adjustments i rest position will usually correct a fairly large gap in bh/fp impacts.

that is a way to think about it at least, helps me get my head wrapped around it.