Hamskea Hybrid Pro Set Up Tips

[Sigfla]

I am about to set mine up this way. I was supposed to get a delivery of cord in the mail today but they screwed up. I may just hit the local shop tomorrow and get some. Mine functions 100% with the spring currently but I have never been happy with it. IMHO its purpose as a bounce dampener is only useful in cable driven configuration. As a limb driven rest there shouldn't be any bounce and if you do get any the arrow should be long gone. In order to get the rest working 100% you have to really pull the hell out of the cord stretching the spring. It just seems counter intuitive. FYI The cord retainer bolt they use in the old versa rest fits perfectly in the new threaded arm for the Hybrid FYI. Those parts should all be available from Hamskea.

 

[Sigfla]

I spent a lot of time this weekend watching high speed videos of limb driven rests. I am 100% convinced if the rest is setup properly and the rigid factory launcher is used that bounce will be a non issue. Every rest that had bounce was due to a spring steel launcher and contact with the shelf. Using the rigid launcher and setting the rest back just off the shelf should completely eliminate this issue in limb driven mode. I think the OP was right on in how he setup his hybrid ditching the spring and tying off directly to the arm. Once I get my new cord I am curious about noise. I do have the nylon bolt from my old versa rest so if going springless causes the launcher to hit the metal adjustment bolt hard I can swap it out. However, since my rest is off the shelf slightly I suppose I could do away with the bolt completely. I will experiment once I get everything together.

 

[lintond]

The spring is supposed to prevent the launcher arm from "bouncing". I remove it because if it becomes stretched in the field the rest will not function properly. That is why this is my preferred method to setting this rest up.

Have you had any issues with fletching contact? I set mine up like described and was getting contact. Put the spring back on and it went away.


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[OR Archer]

No it’s never been an issue.
You can lighten the spring tension if you’re getting contact and that should eliminate it.

 

[Brendan]

No it’s never been an issue.
You can lighten the spring tension if you’re getting contact and that should eliminate it.

Same here with me, I have 3 of them and run them all this way. You do have to make sure the cord doesn't stretch or loosen over time and the rest stays all the way down. I'll sometimes use the bolt method OR detailed here, but then as a backup the cord clamp that comes in the kit.

Also - the spring he's mentioning above isn't the cord spring, it's the launcher spring internal to the rest.

 

[Gumbo]

One thing I have had to do to all of the Hybrids I have set up is to add one screw position of tension to the internal spring. The factory setting has not had enough spring tension to bring the launcher blade all the way up with an arrow on it. I run 75 grains of insert plus 100 grain broadheads.

 

[cooperjd]

thanks OP; removing the spring really quieted down my Hamskea

 

[jm1607]

I thought I would resurrect this thread.. It's a good one..

Also, has anyone had to mess with their internal spring? Either tighten or loosen the torsion? I'm running a 460gr arrow that's pretty front heavy with 175gr in the front.. Wondering if I should tighten it up a hair? Should the factory setting support it well? Not much info on the interweb about doing this...

 

[Longshot]

I shoot a similar arrow and I added tension. 1 or 2 holes.


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[jm1607]

I shoot a similar arrow and I added tension. 1 or 2 holes.


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Could you explain with a little more detail exactly how I can do this? I read the manual but it doesn't help very much..

I think it has to do with the knurled knob with the 2 set screws the arm goes through.. Are there holes all the way around in a circle? Do I just loosen both screws and move them over a hole? Clockwise or Counter?

Or, is there some adjustment underneath the knurled knob once you remove it?

Ty in advance!

 

[Brendan]

Could you explain with a little more detail exactly how I can do this? I read the manual but it doesn't help very much..

I think it has to do with the knurled knob with the 2 set screws the arm goes through.. Are there holes all the way around in a circle? Do I just loosen both screws and move them over a hole? Clockwise or Counter?

Or, is there some adjustment underneath the knurled knob once you remove it?

Ty in advance!

Yes - adjustment holes under the knurled knob. Basically you can pre-load the spring more dependent on which holes you choose.

 

[jm1607]

Yes - adjustment holes under the knurled knob. Basically you can pre-load the spring more dependent on which holes you choose.

Got it. Thanks!

 

[kbarber]

Resurrecting this thread because I really like the simplicity of removing the spring, less components is always better in the field. However, after setting up my rest this way I am running into issues with the cord slipping after a shot. This leads to an elevated at rest position of the launcher.

I have D-loop material, not the supplied cord, and it just seems to slip out from under the washer (I am tightening quite a bit) after every shot. I also see wear on the string, down into the braided fibers of it when removed to re-tension.

Anyone run into similar issues?

 

[OR Archer]

You can use the supplied cord tensioner clamp to eliminate that issue.

 

[Sodbuster]

Good Thread.

 

[Cibearse]

So I recently purchased a Hybrid Hunter Pro. Having issues with fletching contact on arrow launcher. Have taken bow to two separate shops and still cannot eliminate contact.

I should preface this by saying that before varying the activation cord location I did adjust the slack to loosen and tighten the activation cord and found neither helped with fletching contact, so I ruled that out prior to moving forward.

I was able to eliminate fletching contact by moving the cord further towards the limb pocket (Roughly 3.5" from the limb tip), and lowering the rest height to 3 notches from the top.

My issue is that although I now have no fletching contact, I am getting a high tear when paper tuning. I then moved the rest up two notches to remove the high tear and no matter where I place the activation cord or vary the slack in the cord I still have fletching contact. It is as if there is a sweet spot with 3 notches down from top and 3.5" from limb tip for the cord and it won't contact the fletchings, but anywhere else for rest height or limb activation chord location and I see fletching contact..

FYI I am shooting a 2020 PSE Brute NXT and Easton 4mm Axis Pro Long Range Match Grade Arrows with AAE Max Hunter Vanes (4 fletch). I have varied the nock to make fletchings resemble an "X" and not a "T" and that didn't seem to help matters any.