Hamskea Epsilon

[justin davis]

I’ve been running the Trinity. Awesome rests This one looks more slim and really nice

 

[jroot327]

Any word on when bows or which bows will have the holes added to accept their dove tail?


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PSE is the only OE that hasn't released their aluminum 2022 line yet. My guess is they will have the dovetail for QAD and the 2 holes for the COR set-up.

 

[Andy Ivy]

Hamskea have always made top notch gear, this is going to be another bombproof Arrow rest.

 

[muchhuntin]

I have shot the Trinity and also the hybrid pro before the Trinity on all of my setups the past five years due too them being a tank. Once it is setup it doesn't move at all. I've had several other rests slip or have some sort of failure because I'm not easy on my equipment and some failures have been fault of my own and not always the rest. But all hamskea products have been superior imo with single failure in 5 years.

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[NY12020]

Looks like it is heavier than a hybrid hunter...wonder how the width/clearances compare?
All the comparisons i've seen are between the Trinity and Epsilon...

 

[BenHankins]

I sincerely want to ask why are people so attracted to this rest? It seems all the big time archery guys and pro shops are completely sold on the hamskeas. I bought an epsilon and honestly a little underwhelmed, it’s heavy, lots of bolts, machine marks are visible. I like QAD, simple, lightweight, aesthetically pleasing. When everyone compares the two it’s alway “I came from QAD, never had any issues but the hamskea is way better…” if no one has experienced issues I think it’s a no brainer. I guess I’ll mount it and see what the hype is.


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[OR Archer]

I sincerely want to ask why are people so attracted to this rest? It seems all the big time archery guys and pro shops are completely sold on the hamskeas. I bought an epsilon and honestly a little underwhelmed, it’s heavy, lots of bolts, machine marks are visible. I like QAD, simple, lightweight, aesthetically pleasing. When everyone compares the two it’s alway “I came from QAD, never had any issues but the hamskea is way better…” if no one has experienced issues I think it’s a no brainer. I guess I’ll mount it and see what the hype is.


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QAD is a good rest but the Hamskea is bomb proof and it’s also field serviceable unlike the QAD. Slightly easier set with the limb driven versus the cable as you don’t have to time the drop of the rest. The only advantage QAD has is the ability to lock the launcher up.

 

[Trial153]

I still think the simplify of original primer makes it the best rest they make especially going to debound dampener and ditching the spring.
In use for hunting I still like a QAD better. I have taken mine from Alaska to Mexico and everywhere in between and Never had an issue.


I really think you have to look at the order of magnitude on this comparison. I would venture a guess that QAD has easily out sold Hamskea 100 to 1 over all they years, so when you consider failures( or human error often ) you going to have more instances just based on how many are in use.

 

[Ucsdryder]

I just can’t get over the price. These companies think we’re morons, every new model they add 10-15% because they know we’ll pay it. There’s not a big difference between the trinity, epsilon, or hybrid hunter, but the epsilon is 80 dollars more than the HH.

 

[Swampcruiser]

They got my money, now my Tightspot can move in a bunch vs my old hunter pro that stuck out and interfere. This moron is happy…3/4” makes a huge difference.

 

[Billy Goat]

@devinhal

I was wondering if you have gotten to play with cord placement yet on the epsilon and a v3x. The limb angles are a little steeper than previous Mathews. Just wondering if it's still the 2" in from the limb ends or where exactly y'all have found for maximum forgiveness and quiet.

Thanks.

 

[7-Pointers]

Between moving this rest in closer to the center of mass, and the sight mounting systems for the front of the riser on Hoyt, we may just be able get that quiver in close enough to save 10 ounces and $150 on a side bar for the hunting rigs. I'm still waiting on my Epsilon to ship...

 

[CB4]

I sincerely want to ask why are people so attracted to this rest? It seems all the big time archery guys and pro shops are completely sold on the hamskeas. I bought an epsilon and honestly a little underwhelmed, it’s heavy, lots of bolts, machine marks are visible. I like QAD, simple, lightweight, aesthetically pleasing. When everyone compares the two it’s alway “I came from QAD, never had any issues but the hamskea is way better…” if no one has experienced issues I think it’s a no brainer. I guess I’ll mount it and see what the hype is.


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To the contrary I had my QAD fail to drop on me twice. First time I thought was a fluke and then once it happened again I haven't used it since.

 

[devinhal]

@devinhal

I was wondering if you have gotten to play with cord placement yet on the epsilon and a v3x. The limb angles are a little steeper than previous Mathews. Just wondering if it's still the 2" in from the limb ends or where exactly y'all have found for maximum forgiveness and quiet.

Thanks.

I haven't worked with the V3X personally, but it is very similar to the V3 as far as limb flex. I would recommend attaching the activation cord about 2-2.5" from the limb tip.

 

[Billy Goat]

I haven't worked with the V3X personally, but it is very similar to the V3 as far as limb flex. I would recommend attaching the activation cord about 2-2.5" from the limb tip.

Limb flex seems a fair amount steeper than V3, but I haven't measured it.

If it is more, that takes it closer to the limb tip? Keep the rest up a little longer? Or do we want the blade down faster?

I'm not certain with these stiff launchers, faster seems better.

 

[devinhal]

Limb flex seems a fair amount steeper than V3, but I haven't measured it.

If it is more, that takes it closer to the limb tip? Keep the rest up a little longer? Or do we want the blade down faster?

I'm not certain with these stiff launchers, faster seems better.

When considering limb flex you will notice that the limb tip is the location with the most travel through the draw cycle. The amount of distance traveled will decrease as you move further from the limb tip and towards the limb pocket. When choosing where to attach the activation cord, the main thing to consider is the total movement of that specific location though the draw cycle. As the attachment point goes towards the limb tip, the arrow will be guided for a longer period of time. Where as the further the attachment point moves away from the limb tip, the shorter period of time the launcher will be guiding the arrow.

There is a certain amount of movement required for the activation cord to go slack and the launcher to come up to a repeatable position. For the Hybrid/Trinity Hunter we have found that about .5" of movement is required just for the launcher to hit the full upright position with a 1/8" preload on the Dampening Coil Spring or Rebound Dampener. After this point, any additional movement of the attachment point will result in distance that the launcher is guiding the arrow through the shot cycle before the launcher begins to fall. We recommend having the launcher guide the arrow for about 50-70% of the shot cycle or power stroke for the best accuracy. For 50% guidance, the attachment point would have to move about 1" through the shot cycle.

The easiest way that I have found to figure out the optimal attachment point is by marking an arrow and calculating the guidance that way. Here are the steps I take.

1. Measure the Power Stroke: With the activation cord disconnected and the launcher in the upright position, nock an arrow and let it set on the launcher. Put a mark on the top of the arrow at the location where arrow is touching the launcher. Using a draw board, bring the bow to full draw and mark the arrow where the launcher is now making contact. The distance between these two marks is the power stroke or distance the arrow is pulled back during the draw cycle.
2. Calculating the Desired Guidance: We want the launcher to guide the arrow for 50-70% of the power stroke. I find the best results for hunting closer to 50%. Since you know the distance of the power stroke, you can calculate the distance for a desired amount of guidance. For example, 50% guidance over a 22" power stroke would 11" of guidance. In this example, you would want the launcher to be in the full upright position for the last 11" of the power stroke. Mark this location on the same arrow used to measure power stroke so that you have a reference for the next steps.(you can mark both the 50% and 70% location so that you know you are in the acceptable range.
3. Dialing In the Optimal Attachment Location: Tie the activation cord around the limb(don't apply the knobby limb pad yet) and apply the recommend tension to the cord. Next, nock the arrow and rest it on the launcher that is currently in the down position. Using the draw board, draw the bow to the point that the launcher just barely reaches the full upright position and reference where the launcher is contacting the arrow in relation to the marks you have just placed on the arrow. If the launcher has not yet reached the mark for the desired guidance, then you will need to move the activation cord in the direction of the limb tip. If the launcher is past the mark for the desired guidance, then you will need to move the activation cord further from the limb tip. Bring the bow back to the brace position and move the activation cord as needed making sure to properly set the tension on the activation cord each time. Repeat this step until the launcher is guiding the arrow for the desired amount of time.
4. Mark the Location and Install the Knobby Limb Pad: Using a pencil, mark the location of the activation cord that you found gives the desired amount of guidance and then move the cord out of the way.(the pencil mark can later be wiped off) Next, install the knobby limb pad with the center of the pad in line with the pencil mark. Re-install the activation cord with the the cord crossing through the center groove set of the knobby limb pad. Apply the proper amount of tension to the activation cord and enjoy shooting with your properly timed arrow rest.

Just let me know if you have any questions on this process.

 

[Billy Goat]

When considering limb flex you will notice that the limb tip is the location with the most travel through the draw cycle. The amount of distance traveled will decrease as you move further from the limb tip and towards the limb pocket. When choosing where to attach the activation cord, the main thing to consider is the total movement of that specific location though the draw cycle. As the attachment point goes towards the limb tip, the arrow will be guided for a longer period of time. Where as the further the attachment point moves away from the limb tip, the shorter period of time the launcher will be guiding the arrow.

There is a certain amount of movement required for the activation cord to go slack and the launcher to come up to a repeatable position. For the Hybrid/Trinity Hunter we have found that about .5" of movement is required just for the launcher to hit the full upright position with a 1/8" preload on the Dampening Coil Spring or Rebound Dampener. After this point, any additional movement of the attachment point will result in distance that the launcher is guiding the arrow through the shot cycle before the launcher begins to fall. We recommend having the launcher guide the arrow for about 50-70% of the shot cycle or power stroke for the best accuracy. For 50% guidance, the attachment point would have to move about 1" through the shot cycle.

The easiest way that I have found to figure out the optimal attachment point is by marking an arrow and calculating the guidance that way. Here are the steps I take.

1. Measure the Power Stroke: With the activation cord disconnected and the launcher in the upright position, nock an arrow and let it set on the launcher. Put a mark on the top of the arrow at the location where arrow is touching the launcher. Using a draw board, bring the bow to full draw and mark the arrow where the launcher is now making contact. The distance between these two marks is the power stroke or distance the arrow is pulled back during the draw cycle.
2. Calculating the Desired Guidance: We want the launcher to guide the arrow for 50-70% of the power stroke. I find the best results for hunting closer to 50%. Since you know the distance of the power stroke, you can calculate the distance for a desired amount of guidance. For example, 50% guidance over a 22" power stroke would 11" of guidance. In this example, you would want the launcher to be in the full upright position for the last 11" of the power stroke. Mark this location on the same arrow used to measure power stroke so that you have a reference for the next steps.(you can mark both the 50% and 70% location so that you know you are in the acceptable range.
3. Dialing In the Optimal Attachment Location: Tie the activation cord around the limb(don't apply the knobby limb pad yet) and apply the recommend tension to the cord. Next, nock the arrow and rest it on the launcher that is currently in the down position. Using the draw board, draw the bow to the point that the launcher just barely reaches the full upright position and reference where the launcher is contacting the arrow in relation to the marks you have just placed on the arrow. If the launcher has not yet reached the mark for the desired guidance, then you will need to move the activation cord in the direction of the limb tip. If the launcher is past the mark for the desired guidance, then you will need to move the activation cord further from the limb tip. Bring the bow back to the brace position and move the activation cord as needed making sure to properly set the tension on the activation cord each time. Repeat this step until the launcher is guiding the arrow for the desired amount of time.
4. Mark the Location and Install the Knobby Limb Pad: Using a pencil, mark the location of the activation cord that you found gives the desired amount of guidance and then move the cord out of the way.(the pencil mark can later be wiped off) Next, install the knobby limb pad with the center of the pad in line with the pencil mark. Re-install the activation cord with the the cord crossing through the center groove set of the knobby limb pad. Apply the proper amount of tension to the activation cord and enjoy shooting with your properly timed arrow rest.

Just let me know if you have any questions on this process.

Thanks.

I was trying to determine how long the rest should contact the shaft, I'm not use to a ridgid launcher.


I'll probably end up switching to the .010 blade, but trying out this hard launcher.

 

[Holocene]

I'm more curious if it will still integrate with their overdraw.

I called Hamskea the other day, and a tech told me "No" this will not integrate with the overdaw.

Question: how many people are taking the time to torque tune their hunting rig?

Question 2: Are we leaving something on the table be going to integrated rests that cannot be adjusted forward and back for torque tuning?

A few years ago, I was talking with QAD and recommended some forward and back adjustability on their hunting integrated rest. As someone said above, their "Tri" target rest can torque tune, but the integrated hunting rest cannot. And now Hamskea's can't...

Maybe this is not such a huge deal for typical hunting shots 15 - 40 yards?

I've tried to torque tune once and for whatever reason, and luckily best results were with my rest right up against the riser and above my wrist. Sight is fixed Fast Eddie, so it was all the way in and not movable, so I'm not necessarily a torque tuning fanatic but was hoping to explore more this year.

 

[Dave0317]

I agree the Epsilon is expensive. But, if I were to upgrade from my Primer, it would be one of the top options I would look at.

For the comments about QAD vs Hamskea and related issues. I’ll say, the thing that made me switch was ease of timing and repair without a bow press. I had a QAD cable driven rest originally. I don’t know if it was some string stretch or what, but it got a little out of time, and I was getting some fletching contact on the rest. I couldn’t tune it out without a bow press, and I needed new strings, so I decided to get new strings and not re-install the QAD rest.

Looked into limb driven rests which are far easier to time, experiment with, and tune in general. Not to mention the ease of making a field repair if needed. Settled on the Primer considering it is Hamskeas cheapest and lightest weight rest. Saw an immediate and very noticeable improvement in my groups (I am a newer shooter though). I’m sold 100 percent on limb driven being the superior option. And of the limb driven rests, the Hamskea just seems very durable and precisely made. The fact that the rest stays down until you draw hasn’t bothered me anywhere near as much as I thought it might.

 

[aaen]

Picked one up yesterday as I wanted to have both bows ready to rock. Normally it takes me a little but to get a bow firing bullet holes with a new rest and by that I mean 20-30 mins , usually its more like 10-15, depending if, I need to yoke tune, timing, etc. Literally popped it onto the bow using the universal mount, pushed it up against the riser. I should mention there is room to shift it away from the riser, which would make it like any other rest then, I'd actually say there is more room to adjust then my trinity due to the universal bracket, but you would need to be careful to keep it level/square to the riser as it is designed to shoot dead ctr thru the berger hole then there would be not benefit to the new rest.

Anyways, it took me 3 arrows to bareshaft tune the bow at 20yds, well 4 I suppose as i leave the fletched in the target and ten shoot my bareshaft. probably could have been 2, but I over adjusted on the mircro adjustment. I am sitting at 3 clicks right of the ctr shot setting on the rest (every bow will be different). that was it done. I then walk back tuned at varying distances out to 70 yds, made an adjustment to the right two clicks, then took them back out/etc, usual walk back tuning stuff. Took me another 20 arrows give or take as I was outside (windy, cold, making sure it was not me, etc) and I was dialed in. Very impressed with this rest and it is worth the money IMO.

you will loose the ability to torque tune I suppose, but I have not met anyone whom does that with their bows anymore.