Gunsmithing Threaded Barrel

[CiK01]

I am contemplating getting a 308 gun threaded. I can probably find a smith around my parts here in Indiana, but was wondering what I should expect the cost of such a job to be or if there is a go to place I should look at getting it done?

Thanks!

 

[rickiesrevenge]

Threaded for a can? Probably around $100. More if your fitting and timing a brake.

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[CiK01]

Optional suppression. I have a few guns with the same brake I can use a can on.

Want the brake and optional use for the can.


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[TauPhi111]

Where in Indiana are you? I know a real good smith just over the IN/OH line.

 

[BeaverHunter]

I pay $200 for threading and installing/manufacturing of muzzle brake. My gunsmith makes his brakes in house.

 

[CiK01]

Where in Indiana are you? I know a real good smith just over the IN/OH line.

Just outside Cincinnati. On the IN/OH line myself.


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[JohnJohnson]

Should be about $110 or so to have it threaded properly. Any gunsmith can thread it for a muzzle brake but if you're thinking about suppressor use then get it done by someone who does good class 3 threads.

 

[TauPhi111]

Just outside Cincinnati. On the IN/OH line myself.


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Ah great! Check out Spence Gunsmithing in Dayton
Here is his website http://www.spencegunsmithing.com/fpsite.html
I've used him exclusively for the past 5 years or more for all kinds of stuff. He has built me several rifles and they've been great. I'll be taking him a rifle to shorten and thread as well here soon.

 

[CiK01]

Ah great! Check out Spence Gunsmithing in Dayton

Perfect! Thank you!

 

[rob86jeep]

Should be about $110 or so to have it threaded properly. Any gunsmith can thread it for a muzzle brake but if you're thinking about suppressor use then get it done by someone who does good class 3 threads.

So you can have a threaded barrel that doesn't work for suppressors?

 

[JohnJohnson]

So you can have a threaded barrel that doesn't work for suppressors?

Yup, it's a major headache for suppressor manufacturers. In terms of pure alignment, if you think of it as a degree problem that's a good way to picture it. A muzzle brake extends about 1-2" past the crown of your barrel usually. A suppressor is probably extending about 5-9", depending on the model. Any janky threads are going to become a problem given the increased distance that the bullet has to travel prior to exiting the suppressor vs a brake.

Also in a less catastrophic way, the threads can be too shallow or too long. My father's Tikka CTR factory threads are 5/8-24 but they're deeper than they should be so the TBAC CB brake I had put on it would bottom out with some empty thread space still to go. Had to have my gunsmith use a small spacer to get it to sit right. It was never a problem when he was just using an Insite Heathen muzzle brake because the brake is user indexable and can compensate for that with the indexing nut. All sorts of things can be wrong with muzzle threads and if you're using a user indexable muzzle brake (as many people do) you'd never know. That's why since I use TBAC suppressors, I make sure to get threads done by people that TBAC has communicated with as to how to do it right.

I'll post the links below so you don't have to take my word for it. The third link is for a couple of videos TBAC has on threads for suppressors if you're interested. He goes over some common threading issues and the problems they cause.

https://thunderbeastarms.com/tech/thread-specifications
https://thunderbeastarms.com/threading
https://thunderbeastarms.com/videos?s=thread

 

[rob86jeep]

Yup, it's a major headache for suppressor manufacturers. In terms of pure alignment, if you think of it as a degree problem that's a good way to picture it. A muzzle brake extends about 1-2" past the crown of your barrel usually. A suppressor is probably extending about 5-9", depending on the model. Any janky threads are going to become a problem given the increased distance that the bullet has to travel prior to exiting the suppressor vs a brake.

Also in a less catastrophic way, the threads can be too shallow or too long. My father's Tikka CTR factory threads are 5/8-24 but they're deeper than they should be so the TBAC CB brake I had put on it would bottom out with some empty thread space still to go. Had to have my gunsmith use a small spacer to get it to sit right. It was never a problem when he was just using an Insite Heathen muzzle brake because the brake is user indexable and can compensate for that with the indexing nut. All sorts of things can be wrong with muzzle threads and if you're using a user indexable muzzle brake (as many people do) you'd never know. That's why since I use TBAC suppressors, I make sure to get threads done by people that TBAC has communicated with as to how to do it right.

I'll post the links below so you don't have to take my word for it. The third link is for a couple of videos TBAC has on threads for suppressors if you're interested. He goes over some common threading issues and the problems they cause.

https://thunderbeastarms.com/tech/thread-specifications
https://thunderbeastarms.com/threading
https://thunderbeastarms.com/videos?s=thread

Thanks. I didn't know anybody (smith's or factory) would thread a gun sloppy enough to not allow suppressor use. The thread depth is something I didn't think about though.

 

[cattleman99]

Yup, it's a major headache for suppressor manufacturers. In terms of pure alignment, if you think of it as a degree problem that's a good way to picture it. A muzzle brake extends about 1-2" past the crown of your barrel usually. A suppressor is probably extending about 5-9", depending on the model. Any janky threads are going to become a problem given the increased distance that the bullet has to travel prior to exiting the suppressor vs a brake.

Also in a less catastrophic way, the threads can be too shallow or too long. My father's Tikka CTR factory threads are 5/8-24 but they're deeper than they should be so the TBAC CB brake I had put on it would bottom out with some empty thread space still to go. Had to have my gunsmith use a small spacer to get it to sit right. It was never a problem when he was just using an Insite Heathen muzzle brake because the brake is user indexable and can compensate for that with the indexing nut. All sorts of things can be wrong with muzzle threads and if you're using a user indexable muzzle brake (as many people do) you'd never know. That's why since I use TBAC suppressors, I make sure to get threads done by people that TBAC has communicated with as to how to do it right.

I'll post the links below so you don't have to take my word for it. The third link is for a couple of videos TBAC has on threads for suppressors if you're interested. He goes over some common threading issues and the problems they cause.

https://thunderbeastarms.com/tech/thread-specifications
https://thunderbeastarms.com/threading
https://thunderbeastarms.com/videos?s=thread

There isn’t “special” threads for suppressors. There are thread specs that suppressor manufactures give you, but they are generally the same as most other thread specs. The issue of having 2-3” of something on the muzzle vs 6-9” has pretty much nothing to do with the physical threads themselves but rather the alignment of the bore.

When chucking the barrel in a lathe, it is important to indicate off of the center of the bore rather than the the outside of the barrel. If you can dial the bore in to .0005”-.001” you will not likely have any issues with baffle strikes ever. That should be and usually is standard practice when threaded any muzzle though, and isn’t suppressor specific.

The issue with thread depth is not suppressor specific either. Again, it’s more of just your smith knowing his stuff. Thread specs are the same from both a brake and a suppressor. The main things to look for is proper fit and a large enough shoulder to square the can or brake up to.

 

[JohnJohnson]

There isn’t “special” threads for suppressors. There are thread specs that suppressor manufactures give you, but they are generally the same as most other thread specs. The issue of having 2-3” of something on the muzzle vs 6-9” has pretty much nothing to do with the physical threads themselves but rather the alignment of the bore.

When chucking the barrel in a lathe, it is important to indicate off of the center of the bore rather than the the outside of the barrel. If you can dial the bore in to .0005”-.001” you will not likely have any issues with baffle strikes ever. That should be and usually is standard practice when threaded any muzzle though, and isn’t suppressor specific.

The issue with thread depth is not suppressor specific either. Again, it’s more of just your smith knowing his stuff. Thread specs are the same from both a brake and a suppressor. The main things to look for is proper fit and a large enough shoulder to square the can or brake up to.

I never said that suppressors require "special threads", I even mentioned the deep 5/8-24 threads on the factory Tikka CTR as an example. I just said that suppressors require the threads to be done properly more than muzzle brakes do, especially user indexable muzzle brakes which can compensate for improper thread depth. I even gave an example of my experience with that issue being covered up because I was using an Insite Heathen brake which is indexed by the end user.

Edit: I'm not sure what you're disagreeing with in what I said. Even the alignment thing you mentioned I literally said "in terms of pure alignment" before saying it. So we agree there too.

 

[rodney482]

I too am in Indiana and have had several barrels cut down and threaded. I use Shultz Precision out of TN. He is very very good and affordable.
You can ship direct to them and they can ship right back to you.

JR Shultz cell (423) 736-8031

 

[cattleman99]

I never said that suppressors require "special threads", I even mentioned the deep 5/8-24 threads on the factory Tikka CTR as an example. I just said that suppressors require the threads to be done properly more than muzzle brakes do, especially user indexable muzzle brakes which can compensate for improper thread depth. I even gave an example of my experience with that issue being covered up because I was using an Insite Heathen brake which is indexed by the end user.

Edit: I'm not sure what you're disagreeing with in what I said. Even the alignment thing you mentioned I literally said "in terms of pure alignment" before saying it. So we agree there too.

They main thing is that a guy really shouldn’t have to take it to a smith who can do really good Class 3A threads, when the most important thing while threading is basically set up. Any reputable smith should be more than sufficient if he can follow specs and keep tight tolerances but more importantly if he can dial in a bore properly. There are some smiths who indicate off the OD of the barrel, but most who want to stay in business do not do that.

Point is, just find a reputable smith who has done good work.

 

[TauPhi111]

John makes a good point. I'd check to see if the manufacturer of the muzzle device you are looking to get has thread specs and use that. You could also use a taper behind the threads of your muzzle to ensure alignment. Q firearms has thread specs for 1/2-28 and 5/8-24 threads with a taper.

 

[JohnJohnson]

They main thing is that a guy really shouldn’t have to take it to a smith who can do really good Class 3A threads, when the most important thing while threading is basically set up. Any reputable smith should be more than sufficient if he can follow specs and keep tight tolerances but more importantly if he can dial in a bore properly. There are some smiths who indicate off the OD of the barrel, but most who want to stay in business do not do that.

Point is, just find a reputable smith who has done good work.

Couldn't agree more. Though there are a surprising number of guys with lathes who do crappy muzzle threading. Any reputable smith should do just fine.