Gunsmith bedded stock - cant remove action

[Bidwell]

It wont hurt to check it out once, or work on it a few times. Just know the more you remove the stock the easier it gets the looser it gets, negates the purpose of the bedding.
I would wait till you get the new trigger in hand. Take pics of the bedding and underside of the action so you can refer to later if needed. Swap the trigger, put it back to gether and leave it.

Most of all, dont forget to properly torque the action screws when you put it back together.

And just removing the stock can and probably will change your zero POI.

Thanks! Good advice

 

[wapitibob]

Loosen the action screws a few turns and tap on the heads, repeat. The action will come out. Prying on things is not the way to remove an action that has no clearance.

 

[TagStew]

@SDHUNTER - any advice?

 

[wyosam]

It wont hurt to check it out once, or work on it a few times. Just know the more you remove the stock the easier it gets the looser it gets, negates the purpose of the bedding.
I would wait till you get the new trigger in hand. Take pics of the bedding and underside of the action so you can refer to later if needed. Swap the trigger, put it back to gether and leave it.

Most of all, dont forget to properly torque the action screws when you put it back together.

And just removing the stock can and probably will change your zero POI.

If the zero is changing I’d argue it’s bedded poorly. They’re stress in it if it’s moving. If mine move, they get ground out and re-done.


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[riversidejeep]

Remove the action screws, replace with longer studs, bolts of same thread and some nice blows with a 3lb hammer. You sure your smith got it out ? I remember a few in gunsmithing class that didn't get the release wax in all the right spots and ended up with a one piece rifle.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Its by design, dont work it looser so its easier. You want it this tight, its a pain and takes a while but gently rock the action pulling straight down on the stock, straight up on the action keeping everything level, until it comes out... once out do you what you need to do, make sure nothings in the lug area and try not to remove the stock.

In regards to the above, I have a different opinion. You want good solid contact across the back of the recoil lug, but having some clearance in the front is desirable so that you can disassemble easily. That is why I usually put a couple strips of electrical tape across the front and sides of the lug when I am bedding.

 

[Wrench]

I would strongly suggest not beating on the action screws. If you can't get it apart by popping the butt while adding pressure to the front (essentially creating equal force).....the next step is an action jack.

 

[gbflyer]

Seems like a mechanical lock of some kind. Bedding not stuck to metal but is wrapped around something it shouldn’t be.

 

[Snowwolfe]

In regards to the above, I have a different opinion. You want good solid contact across the back of the recoil lug, but having some clearance in the front is desirable so that you can disassemble easily. That is why I usually put a couple strips of electrical tape across the front and sides of the lug when I am bedding.

Exactly. And you also want to add a strip of tape across the bottom of the lug as well. The only place the recoil lug should make contact with is the the back of it. IMO the only exception to this rule is when bedding a Ruger 77 or a similar style recoil lug

As far as changing POI if you remove and reinstall the barreled action. Well, of course it can change. But any changes should be minimal.

Also, it hurts nothing to remove it from the stock on occasion. Any time I hunt the coast of Alaska my rifle will be disassembled at the end of the hunt, cleaned, oiled, etc before it goes back into the safe. Next year it will be taken to the range and may need a few shots to get a perfect zero.

 

[BBob]

The only place the recoil lug should make contact with is the the back of it. IMO the only exception to this rule is when bedding a Ruger 77 or a similar style recoil lug

This is a Howa with the front action screw in the bottom of the recoil lug so in this case as in the Ruger the bottom of the lug should have contact.

 

[TaperPin]

An action bedded so tight it can barely be removed has never been considered correct, and is not “extra” accurate compared to good bedding that can be taken apart. Gunsmiths have a variety of scrapers, chisels sized to reach down along recoil lug sides, specialty sanding blocks, and marking fluid to quickly highlight tight spots so they can be shaved down slightly. When I read this, it sounds like a buddy who works on guns, or a guy at the range, rather than an actual smith. If you paid top dollar for this I’d expect them to touch it up. If it was your second cousin, he’s probably not the best choice to fix it if he didn’t know enough the first time around. Sharpie covering the action will rub off on the tight spots and even a fingernail file can be used to take off a very small amount. Get down in the bottom of the recoil lug recess with a narrow sharp chisel used as a scraper, and the front and sides of the recess can have a few thou sanded off.

 

[sndmn11]

. The only place the lug needs to make contact with the beddingis the side of the lug closest to the magazine.

This is wrong for a Howa; the lug needs contact on all sides including the bottom.

 

[TaperPin]

The relatively huge flat area behind the recoil lug is designed that way to provide all the bedding surface needed. The tiny flat on the bottom of the lug will cause problems when crap gets into the bottom of the lug recess and holds the receiver off the stock.

Leaving the sides of the lug tight to the bedding just makes it hard to remove and does nothing to keep the receiver from moving side to side. Again, the huge flat the length of the receiver is many times larger than needed for alignment.

 

[TaperPin]

It also reminded me of a comment on the same issue last year or the year before or year before - someone asked if tight bedding causes problems other than being hard to separate. When you have to struggle to pull the receiver out, the odds of the person slipping as it pops apart goes WAY up. That makes the odds of dropping it and the bell of your fancy new scope getting a flat from hitting tile floor if you’re lucky and the scope survives.

 

[sndmn11]

The relatively huge flat area behind the recoil lug is designed that way to provide all the bedding surface needed. The tiny flat on the bottom of the lug will cause problems when crap gets into the bottom of the lug recess and holds the receiver off the stock.

Leaving the sides of the lug tight to the bedding just makes it hard to remove and does nothing to keep the receiver from moving side to side. Again, the huge flat the length of the receiver is many times larger than needed for alignment.

View attachment 861424

One is inducing stress on this particular action by not bedding the bottom of the lug.

 

[Caseknife]

Thanks for the advice everybody. Any chance shooting some rounds might loosen things up just a fraction?

Hope not

 

[fuzzymarindave]

I bedded a Howa 1500 to the Stockys carbon fiber stock. I made it tight but was able to remove it straight up and out. There was a little rocking needed but not too much.

I’ve bedded probably a dozen rifles and never use tape. I make them all tight regardless of stock being wood, carbon; or, composite. It has worked well for me.

 

[StupidLightweight]

I bought an old Remington 600 Mohawk last year. It came in an aftermarket fiberglass stock, which I couldn't identify, so I tried pulling it apart to see if there was any marking inside. No matter what I did, I couldn't get it apart and wondered if it was forever bedded.

A friend suggested freezing it. That didn't work. When the temp got down to the -20s, I left it outside for 12 hours and tried once more in the morning. I finally got the stock off.

 

[TaperPin]

One is inducing stress on this particular action by not bedding the bottom of the lug.

No. You’re trying to create a bedding surface out of a part that was never designed to be the bedding surface. The pressure from normal receiver screws is so minimal it doesn’t create any twist or bend in the receiver.

This myth is super easy to test - and it has been with all makes and models and there is no benefit even in the most accurate rifles. Shoot it tight, and release around the lug and there will be no difference.

 

[sndmn11]

No. You’re trying to create a bedding surface out of a part that was never designed to be the bedding surface. The pressure from normal receiver screws is so minimal it doesn’t create any twist or bend in the receiver.

This myth is super easy to test - and it has been with all makes and models and there is no benefit even in the most accurate rifles. Shoot it tight, and release around the lug and there will be no difference.

When you tighten that action screw, it will pull the lug down until the lug hits something or the resistance action to bend exceeds the in/lbs put into the action screws. The tapered shape and action screw being threaded into it communicates the intent of design. When the bottom of the lug isn't supported, one just bends the action when they tighten up the screws.