Grinder mushing meat

[V2Pnutrition]

I’ve not ran into this issue personally but I wonder if the plate and/or blade has changed enough dimensionally from flattening/sharpening etc that it is in effect loose. In other words the blade is not snug enough on the plate and is gapping some. I’m not sure how you would check without shotgunning parts and buying a new plate and knife.

Is there a bushing or washer of some kind at the back end of the auger that could wear and let the auger move back away from the plate and knife causing it to run loose?

There's a bushing/gear + screw with washer. All are tight. It's not to say it's not outside of the tolerance needed though. Something like this seems to make the most sense to me, too. I can pick up a plate and blade from Weston for under $30 bucks or so and I like that a heck of alot more than ponying up the money for a new grinder when it seems like I shouldn't need one.

 

[butcherboy]

Sounds to me like the plate and blade aren’t fitting tight. The plate and blade will get smaller after use and sharpening. This will create some play between the plate, blade, and auger creating a gap where the meat won’t get cut and the auger will try to push the meat through. This will also cause the meat to warm up. These two things together will cause the meat to get mushy.

 

[Boarmaster]

Before I bought a new grinder I would buy a new plate , knife and washer. Somethings not jamming up together. There is likely nothing wrong with the auger. If my motor was good I would start changing parts in the head before buying a whole new set up.

 

[Wrench]

100%. I am on my original parts and I surface grind mine every time itvneeds it. My grinder has done close to 100 elk and at least 30 deer and a dozen bears.

 

[johnnycake]

Thanks for the replies, everyone.

The meat was in the freezer prior to grinding.
I stuck all parts of the grinder in the freezer prior to grinding.
This was the first attempt with a sharp blade and plate.

Both plate and blade were sharpened via a flat block with 400-600-800 grit. I then used 1000 grit wet sand. Again- all on flat block (I used to do auto body, so appreciate the contour the surface making a difference).

Shape, spacing, etc. of the plate, are things I'll look at. I'll be sure to report back (may be a bit though- I have an elk tag I'm trying to fill until I get back to grinding!).

How long was the meat in the freezer?

For me, regardless of which grinder I'm using, I like to have strips of meat cut to a thickness that fits in the feeding tube. And I want those strips to be about 75% frozen. Firm to hard but just barely pliable. That then let's my grind stay extremely cold without needing to run any ice cubes through periodically, and I have zero issues with mushing even on a second grind.

 

[doc holiday13]

…or as @Roy68 pointed out, the plate/blade are no longer truly flat and mating flush

x3

New plate and blade are cheap

 

[Soj51hopeful]

I’ve had “mushing” issues when everything else was as it should be. When I get rushed and stuff the neck and shove it through with the plunger the meat will start to mush, even when frozen. When I feed the grinder as it needs everything turns out perfect. 1st and 2nd grind.

 

[Tod osier]

Morning!

I have an older Weston #8 that did great on elk and mule deer (1 each per year), but started mushing the meat in the last year.

I’ve done all the tricks- tighten the seal between blade/plate/auger closer, sharpened plates & blades to well beyond factory-sharp, frozen the meat ahead of time, etc. The gear from auger to the motor is good; not stripped. Still has good power and doesn't bog when it does work. I tried again today (mule deer) and didn’t get 5-10 pieces in on a course grind before it started to behave that way.

It seems to not be cutting through the silver skin, gets clogged, and mushes the meat. I trim most obvious stuff off, but I’m not particularly obsessive about it and never have been. My process has been the same for 5-6 or more years (no change in the method that would justify it to start clogging like it is). In fact, I first noticed it when going from a course to fine grind last year on an elk (ie no silver skin and already ground before mushing the fine grind through).

It doesn’t seem like that complicated of a system, but I’m out of ideas and thought I'd ask before trying to pick up a new one.

Thanks for any thoughts!

There are a lot of good comments here. There is something straightforward wrong, both issues that I suspect have already been suggested.

I don't know about your sharpening skills or technique, but it sure sounds like dull blades or out of flat plates. Cover the mating surfaces completely with sharpie and hit them with the highest grit to confirm your sharpening, the sharpie should wear off when sharpened to the very edge of the blade (the cutting edge) and the plate should 100% wear off with little effort if perfectly flat.

The second and more unlikely is that the thrust washer is worn so that when you are tightening the collar the plates are not getting good tension on the blades. The collar would be bottoming on the threads, not the auger/blade/plate as it should.

 

[Jason Snyder]

Is there a bushing or washer of some kind at the back end of the auger that could wear and let the auger move back away from the plate and knife causing it to run loose?

This.