I thought I would add an update to this post for the benefit of anyone interested in attempting a Public Land DIY Elk/ deer hunt in Montana. Our trip was totally awesome in almost every way. The not so awesome parts were out of our control. The weather on opening days was perfect, but the next 3 days were tough. If it wasn't raining it was snowing and if it wasn't snowing we were fogged in. We are from the Adirondack Mtn Region of NY, snow and cold are the norm during hunting season so that was not a big deal for us. Our party was well equipped and able to deal with the weather. We brought 2 atvs and chains for the pick up so we didn't have any problems getting around if the roads were at all passable, but we lost a lot of time due to just plain crap weather anad deep snow up top.
I agree with the posts above that opening day is a bit of a circus but you can get away from it if you try. There were lots of road hunters and ATV operators who thought they should go anywhere that they'd like with total disregard for the resource or the regulations posted by the Forest Service. I'm not sure if it was a result of the weather or if it was a standard occurrence, but most of these folks seemed to have disappeared by Wednesday. I have to admit I didn't miss them.
We hunted hard, 7-10 miles a day on foot and used the atvs as little as possible. It took 4 days before we could even find an elk, but we kept at it until we did. We were able to harvest 1 bull in our party of 4 hunters , however we saw 10 separate bulls. Some shooters and some spikes. The bull we took was 4.5 miles from the pick up and we walked into get him. It was dark by the time we had him field dressed so we left him overnight in the snow to cool and went back in the am with meat packs to haul out. Our pack was 1.5 miles to here we left the ATVs. I carried a 12 guage pump shotgun with 00 buck for packing out the next day but there was no bear sing near by and nothing bothered the Elk that night.
We rented a house it town it was inexpensive, warm, had a washer and dryer, we cooked our own meals and we all had a shower every day, however it was 1 hour to the trail heads we hunted in from in either direction. All in all it was a great trip and we plan on doing it again.
Here's what we learned.
1.) You can't plan on the weather so hunt for as long as you can 10-14 days would be best. 7 days min.
2.) It's big country and its hard to find game so you have to travel quite a bit.
3.) There are idiots everywhere you go and not all of them are non residents.
4.) People become much friendlier about Tuesday.
5.) Elk are very tough animals even when hit in the bread basket.
6.) Don't believe everything you read on this forum.
7.) ONX (or similar gps) is a must, but take paper maps and a compass with you as well
8.) When the weather up top was bad we should have focused on hunting deer down low.
Note: We are all in our late 40's and early 50's, we were out earlier in the a.m. and back later in the p.m. than most anyone else we saw, but we went to hunt. However we all still had a few beers at the end of the day. We prepared most of the summer and did lots of walking at home on the weekends with weighted packs. We still could have done more, but never underestimate will power.
Those hills are steep!