Glass bedding or new stock?

[SDHNTR]

Head to the local archery shop and ask for a bunch of arrow shaft off-cuts of varying diameters (so you can sleeve them when you need a longer tube). I did that a couple years ago and walked out with a small grocery bag full of free carbon tubes to play with. Worked great on a factory Sako stock.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm an archery hunter and this thought has crossed my mind too, I just have a hard time seeing how carbon arrows, which are quite flexible, would provide much stiffness.

 

[mmw194287]

I'm an archery hunter and this thought has crossed my mind too, I just have a hard time seeing how carbon arrows, which are quite flexible, would provide much stiffness.

The off-cuts I used were pretty short and seemed fairly rigid when sleeved together, at least enough to make a big improvement to a pretty damn flexible forend.

Locking it all in place with some JB weld also probably made a difference (perhaps more than the shafts themselves did).

 

[Wrench]

I'd give it .030" float and seal it....never look back. The float clearance on wood is more critical than on glass as wood moves. It is probably stiff enough if you don't get silly trying to load the bipod.

You can get a very serviceable bedding job with jb weld (the slow set stuff). Keep 30 q tips and a tablespoon of wd40 or diesel handy and it'll clean up the splooge nicely and without any mess.

 

[grfox92]

I'd give it .030" float and seal it....never look back. The float clearance on wood is more critical than on glass as wood moves. It is probably stiff enough if you don't get silly trying to load the bipod.

You can get a very serviceable bedding job with jb weld (the slow set stuff). Keep 30 q tips and a tablespoon of wd40 or diesel handy and it'll clean up the splooge nicely and without any mess.

I like the JB weld just for the extreme DIY component of it. Thanks @Wrench

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

 

[Wrench]

Just don't use the jb quick. It has much lower compressive strength and shrinks more. The wd 40 clean up csn be done as soon as it is put together. It will clean out checkering, roll stamps.....everything quick and easy.

 

[grfox92]

Just don't use the jb quick. It has much lower compressive strength and shrinks more. The wd 40 clean up csn be done as soon as it is put together. It will clean out checkering, roll stamps.....everything quick and easy.

What have you used as a release agent? I've read shoe polish.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

 

[Pickettpuncher]

Jb weld original, some hoppes, q tips and clear shoe polish. Make sure the wife and kids are away for a bit and take it slow. Lots of good YouTube videos out there. Also, I like plumbers putty to fill in holes in the action. Tried play dough once and it rusted a rifle in just a few hours. It also dried up quickly and shrunk. No more play dough here.

 

[SDHNTR]

What have you used as a release agent? I've read shoe polish.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Johnson's Paste Wax brushed thoroughly over everything! Especially any screw threads. Smoothly brushed on, you don't want big gobs of it. I've used Hornady One Shot case lube too. Only cause I had some around, or a combo of the two. If in doubt, lube it up! Trust me, your first time you will have epoxy in places you never intended. Use kids modeling clay (or plumbers dope works also, do not use Playdough as mentioned above. It must have salt in it as it does cause rust), plug up your screw holes and the stock recesses for trigger and mag well. You can also make a clay dam up the first inch or so of the barrel to keep epoxy from flowing past, for a good free float. And mask off the exterior of the stock with blue tape. That epoxy gets everywhere when it oozes out. Keep lots of Q tips, paper towels and WD40 at the ready.

Prep your wood inletting surfaces with some rough sandpaper and/or score with a Dremel tool and a scribing bit to provide some mechanical adhesion to the epoxy and the wood. Clean really well with a tack cloth and compressed air.

Oh, and remove the trigger assembly.

 

[Wrench]

What have you used as a release agent? I've read shoe polish.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

I use Johnsons paste wax. A small can will do about 9 million rifles and it's easy to apply and clean up. It also works well on top of plumber's putty.

 

[Wrench]

I buff the wax back with a cloth before I bed so it's smooth as glass.

 

[grfox92]

I buff the wax back with a cloth before I bed so it's smooth as glass.

I'm going to do it. I'm going to go shoot the gun first this weekend and see how well it groups and then I'll do a comparison after the bedding job.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

 

[SDHNTR]

I'm going to do it. I'm going to go shoot the gun first this weekend and see how well it groups and then I'll do a comparison after the bedding job.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Go for it! I prefer Acraglass Gel. I like how easy it is to color with the included dye. Easy to make it match your stock so you don’t have an off color outline.

 

[Doc Holliday]

What have you used as a release agent? I've read shoe polish.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Has anyone used Chapstick or automotive wax? Trying to think of what I have around the house that might work

How about this Kenetrek boot wax? I'm using JB weld as the bonding agent

 

[Unckebob]

Head to the local archery shop and ask for a bunch of arrow shaft off-cuts of varying diameters (so you can sleeve them when you need a longer tube). I did that a couple years ago and walked out with a small grocery bag full of free carbon tubes to play with. Worked great on a factory Sako stock.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought a cheap synthetic (and old one from when companies used a stiff rubbery material rather than tupperwhere) to learn how to do some stock work. If I botch something, I won't feel bad trashing the stock.

Plans:
1) CF arrows into the fore end (Doesn't really need it, but it seems easiest)
2) Make sure it is free floated
3) Glass bed the action.
4) The only real question I have is pillar bedding a synthetic stock. How proud of the original stock should it be?

 

[Pickettpuncher]

Has anyone used Chapstick or automotive wax? Trying to think of what I have around the house that might work

How about this Kenetrek boot wax? I'm using JB weld as the bonding agentView attachment 471575

I use the clear kiwi boot polish. That would probably work.

 

[Pickettpuncher]

I bought a cheap synthetic (and old one from when companies used a stiff rubbery material rather than tupperwhere) to learn how to do some stock work. If I botch something, I won't feel bad trashing the stock.

Plans:
1) CF arrows into the fore end (Doesn't really need it, but it seems easiest)
2) Make sure it is free floated
3) Glass bed the action.
4) The only real question I have is pillar bedding a synthetic stock. How proud of the original stock should it be?

It doesn’t take much. Depending on the rifle would depend on how I done it. But to shorten the conversation, get your pillars whatever length you want. Use action screws and bolt pillars to gun. Have you’re action holes drilled in stock and lather the insides with the bedding compound. Make sure you do the same with the pillars before you slide in. Do your cleanup and wait.