Getting started - Arrows

SoutheastGoesWest

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jul 15, 2017
Messages
126
Location
Mid TN
I just learned that Santa is bringing a 35lb recurve for Christmas. I really want to get everything tuned and start working on basics. Maybe I can move up to 45 lbs by next deer season, maybe not. But the most confusing aspect so far is arrow selection. I understand people use heavy points, brass inserts, increase FOC, etc.

But for a beginner, what should I first look at for arrow selection? A bareshaft test kit?

Once a spine is determined, what is your order of events for settling on a final arrow length / point weight / insert weight etc?
 

DEW0341

WKR
Joined
Mar 19, 2016
Messages
462
Location
camp pendleton, ca
-Get some cheaper arrows like BE outlaws probably 500ish spine for you based on your limb #. Focus more time on shooting and more shooting than a high tech arrow build at least to start out. I like BE cause it’s easy to use their weight system for their inserts. Try to keep length close to full length as possible so your point on will be closer. As for point and insert it’s up to you really, I use 200 point and 90ISH in the insert just to get my overall arrow weight up but not so heavy I dip below 180FPS on current arrow I’m shouting and it has 19% or something FOC. You won’t know if your arrow is spined correctly if you can’t shoot with good form and consistency.

-get a clicker.

-buy SOLID archery mechanics by Tom Clum Sr.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

nastynick

FNG
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
84
Location
Trondheim, Norway
DEW has good feedback. I used a couple of the spine charts to get close and erred on the side of too stiff knowing I can add point weight. I started with aluminum since they were cheaper and I just wanted to get shooting. After that, you can spend a lot of time and money on trying different things once your form is dialed in.
 

Beendare

WKR
Joined
May 6, 2014
Messages
9,038
Location
Corripe cervisiam
I would use the stu miller or 3 river spine chart [its the same] to get in the ballpark...then use the FP test kit with multiple point weights to dial it in.

FWIW, my take;
I wouldn't worry so much about tuning and where your arrows are going at first- here's why. You will not have a consistent DL or good form at first....that makes tuning very frustrating.

Focus on mechanics. Develop a solid anchor, consistent DL, back tension and good release.....then start tuning.
 

smoke

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
189
Good information above. If you have an archery shop nearby, I'd suggest you stop there and get some help. Don't spend much on your first half dozen arrows - as noted above, work on your shooting mechanics first. Once you have your shooting form established, you can step up on the arrow quality and dial in to what you will really need. Good luck!!
 

Mythewood

FNG
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
64
Get your arrows with bright fletching all the same color. It helps seeing how your arrow flies. The advice from above is good.
 
Joined
Nov 10, 2020
Messages
449
Get your arrows with bright fletching all the same color. It helps seeing how your arrow flies. The advice from above is good.
To add to this, arrows with really bright fletching and wraps will help when you inevitably snake one under the grass after missing the target. Beyond that little pro tip I don't think I can add to the good advice already given.
 

PennDude

FNG
Joined
Dec 14, 2017
Messages
83
Best advice I can give is to get some 600 spine arrows and fletch them up with 5" feathers or even flu-flu. Worry about tuning the arrows to you bow after you've developed a clean and reliable form. If you're trying to bare shaft tune with shitty form, you're going to get way too frustrated. Poor form can and will cause flight issue with bare shafts.
 
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