General Tikka upgrades and why

[longrange13]

Just picked up my second Tikka last night. A RoughTech lefty in 6.5 PRC. Seems just fine as it is, but I've not mounted an optic and fired it yet.

Asking what general "upgrades" are done to these Tikkas and why? Specifically the Mountain Tech or similar bottom metal. What function does it improve?

This already has an oversized bolt knob, fluted bolt, threaded 5/8-24. Trigger seems great.

There was a thread I saw last week about the magazines. THis one does have the ugly and potruding 4 round magazine. I think I would like a flusher fit 3. Read these PRCs are odd balls and maybe getting a magazine is a bit of a project??

I have a long action bolt stop around somewhere. I've only spent 90 seconds manipulating the rifle. Guessing it's set up for short action bolt throw now?

You can get a little more internal magazine length with some after market mags. Aluminum bottom metal is more durable in theory and also looks and feels better. Beyond that I think the only two upgraded a tikka really needs is a carbon or fiberglass stock and a lighter trigger spring. Having a fully nitrided action would also be really nice. Everything beyond that is mostly cosmetic.

 

[bullnose]

At that price Beretta can keep them.

You got that right! They sure look like rebranded MT products, and at a substantial mark up to boot. No thanks!

 

[JCMCUBIC]

I added a Stocky's VG stock and High Desert Linear bottom metal. Those with a pair of UM rings and level is a really solid package for an all around shooter/hunter rifle.

 

[LeftyWilbury]

on my roughtech, and tikkas in general, i swap out the trigger spring and since it's apart, the recoil lug.
is any of that necessary? nah. although a bunch of my recoil lugs on older tikkas looked way ugly.

the only REAL upgrade the roughtech needs is to take the thread protector off and screw on a suppressor. and then you are ready.

 

[atmat]

on my roughtech, and tikkas in general, i swap out the trigger spring and since it's apart, the recoil lug.
is any of that necessary? nah. although a bunch of my recoil lugs on older tikkas looked way ugly.

the only REAL upgrade the roughtech needs is to take the thread protector off and screw on a suppressor. and then you are ready.

The older recoil lugs were bad, but that hasn't been an issue for years now.

What were you able to get your factory Tikka trigger pull down to? My factory springs get down to like 1.75 lbs, which is about perfect for me.

 

[LeftyWilbury]

The older recoil lugs were bad, but that hasn't been an issue for years now.

What were you able to get your factory Tikka trigger pull down to? My factory springs get down to like 1.75 lbs, which is about perfect for me.

don't have a trigger pull scale, so not sure what the factory trigger's range was, just still a bit stiff for me. MT spring is a bit light, but it works for me. probably 1.5# if i had to guess.

 

[Fox625]

KalixTeknik CR1 is a must for me.

KalixTeknik CR1 Adjustable Cheek Rest - Tikka T3/T3X/T1XRifle

Adjustable cheek rest for Tikka T3/T3X/T1X Rifle. Made for factory polymer/composite stocks. Must drill into stock for proper installation. Product includes instructions and template for proper installation. Made in Sweden by KalixTeknik. Need a CR-1 for another stock? Contact us! For more...

highdesertrifleworks.com

Just got one installed on my 30-06 along with the vertical grip module, and a limb saver. The CR1 is worth every penny.

 

[atmat]

don't have a trigger pull scale, so not sure what the factory trigger's range was, just still a bit stiff for me. MT spring is a bit light, but it works for me. probably 1.5# if i had to guess.

Gotcha. I’d just encourage people to loosen their factory and test before replacing right away. I’ve replaced springs and triggers on other guns. But like I said, my Tikkas are down to 1.75#

 

[Dobermann]

For me, pretty much as others have stated, and influenced by @Formidilosus -

223 (Rokslide Special variant):
Chop to 18", thread
Add 164 g / 5.8 oz Oceania Defence Alpine Hunter Ti suppressor
Hog out barrel chamber
Degrease action screws and torque to 60-odd in/lb
Add vertical grip
Swap to rounded bolt knob (either Tikka Superlite/Tactical or an aftermarket)
Add SWFA 3-9 in Sportsmatch TO84 or UM Tikka rings
Add Spartan adapter or rail, and use Spartan Javelin ProHunt (still don't like the slop in this, but it works well enough if you're not loading the bipod and fits the overall package ... for now)
Done.

Although currently experimenting with a Hi-Tec Composites cabon fibre stock.

6.5 Creed (Rokslide Super Special variant):
Chop to 20 in (mine's fluted, so threading right up to threads gives something around 21", from memory)
Add 164 g / 5.8 oz Oceania Defence Alpine Hunter Ti suppressor
Swap stock for KRG Bravo
Use MDT metal/polymer mags - metal feed lips for durability; polymer body for nicer handling. Less tinny than all-metal AI pattern mags, and more reliable than MDT's all-polymer mags.
Add short Henderson Precision Arca rail just in front of magwell for tripod shots.
Add KRG pic rail at forend for Tier-One Evolution Bipod - lightweight for the stability, and barrel sits above bipod apex.
Minox ZP5 THLR in UM Tikka rings, high.


And for folks who missed it ... the new Tikka Super Varmints have two-stage triggers as standard offerings.

 

[ElPollo]

The older recoil lugs were bad, but that hasn't been an issue for years now.

What were you able to get your factory Tikka trigger pull down to? My factory springs get down to like 1.75 lbs, which is about perfect for me.

It seems to vary between individual guns. I have an older t3 that adjusts down to 1.75# and a newer t3x that bottoms out at about 2.4#. Tikka triggers are so crisp that even 2.4# is a pretty darned good trigger. And honestly 1.75# is a bit light for me in cold weather.

 

[ElPollo]

I have largely been anti-tikka legos. Thread it, slap a suppressor on it, adjust the trigger and shoot it. Stock magazines, floor plates, triggers, etc. That said, I just put one of mine in a Stocky’s VG Hunter stock and it’s a pretty nice upgrade. Spotting impacts at 200 yards through the scope with it turned all the way up is just sweet. I don’t need any of the other crap, but I like that stock.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

Trigger seems stellar. I realize there are great stock options out there. I am following along with the Stockys VG thread. I am cheap and that's probably the direction I will go if need be.

For now I see myself strapping on a Triad stock pad to add a touch of comb height and running the piss out of it all season.

Really just asking why so many seem to change to Mountain Tach bottom metal, bolt shrouds, and generally dick with everything.

I've swapped to a vertical grip on both my T1X and my T3X 7 Mag. Think I even have one more ready to install in my shop.

On the bottom metal, some guys have had issues with plastic when torquing action bolts to 65#. Upgrading to MT bottom metal, made out of metal, solves this issue.

 

[Gadjet]

I have largely been anti-tikka legos. Thread it, slap a suppressor on it, adjust the trigger and shoot it. Stock magazines, floor plates, triggers, etc. That said, I just put one of mine in a Stocky’s VG Hunter stock and it’s a pretty nice upgrade. Spotting impacts at 200 yards through the scope with it turned all the way up is just sweet. I don’t need any of the other crap, but I like that stock.

I'm curious, what does the new stock actually do to help spot impacts? Less muzzle jump?

 

[T3X]

On the bottom metal, some guys have had issues with plastic when torquing action bolts to 65#. Upgrading to MT bottom metal, made out of metal, solves this issue.

Per the owners manual, 44inlb for plastic trigger guards and 62inlb for metal.

 

[N2TRKYS]

I recently bought a Tikka T3x lite in 223. It has taken more work than I’m use to to get it to shoot accurately. I’m hoping that it gets there soon. It seems more finicky than the internet buzz would indicate. I’m hoping for the best.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

I recently bought a Tikka T3x lite in 223. It has taken more work than I’m use to to get it to shoot accurately. I’m hoping that it gets there soon. It seems more finicky than the internet buzz would indicate. I’m hoping for the best.

my factory barrel was finicky, pva prefit is also finicky so far. finally got a 10 shot 77 tmk group at 1.2 moa, curious to see if it repeats or opens back up to the typical average.

about to give up on 223 as a grown up rifle and just let it be my kids rifle. the 6.5 creed on the other hand hammers, biggest 10 shot group to date is 1.15 moa.

 

[atmat]

my factory barrel was finicky, pva prefit is also finicky so far. finally got a 10 shot 77 tmk group at 1.2 moa, curious to see if it repeats or opens back up to the typical average.

about to give up on 223 as a grown up rifle and just let it be my kids rifle. the 6.5 creed on the other hand hammers, biggest 10 shot group to date is 1.15 moa.

I’m sorry you keep having troubles with your 223 barrels. Such a bummer.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Takes a lot of fun out of range trips for me this year. Fortunately, my kids just love trigger time, so their enjoying it.

 

[kelly1]

I upgraded my t3 to a Stockys stock ,I have a pillar kit and metal bolt shroud that I have not installed.
My others are in XLR chassis,kelly

 

[N2TRKYS]

my factory barrel was finicky, pva prefit is also finicky so far. finally got a 10 shot 77 tmk group at 1.2 moa, curious to see if it repeats or opens back up to the typical average.

about to give up on 223 as a grown up rifle and just let it be my kids rifle. the 6.5 creed on the other hand hammers, biggest 10 shot group to date is 1.15 moa.

That’s discouraging. I’ve got a Remington Model Seven 223 that shoots really good without doing a fraction of what I’ve done to this Tikka.

Maybe I can get mine shooting before too long or I’ll send it down the road.