General Tikka upgrades and why

[Jesse Jaymes]

Just picked up my second Tikka last night. A RoughTech lefty in 6.5 PRC. Seems just fine as it is, but I've not mounted an optic and fired it yet.

Asking what general "upgrades" are done to these Tikkas and why? Specifically the Mountain Tech or similar bottom metal. What function does it improve?

This already has an oversized bolt knob, fluted bolt, threaded 5/8-24. Trigger seems great.

There was a thread I saw last week about the magazines. THis one does have the ugly and potruding 4 round magazine. I think I would like a flusher fit 3. Read these PRCs are odd balls and maybe getting a magazine is a bit of a project??

I have a long action bolt stop around somewhere. I've only spent 90 seconds manipulating the rifle. Guessing it's set up for short action bolt throw now?

 

[ID_Matt]

If you are shooting factory ammo, then no reason to change out the bolt stop or magazine. If you were handloading and wanted to shoot a longer bullet, may be worth switching mags and bolt stop. Factory mags work just fine.

Other than that, most guys swap the stock to something a bit more suited for accurate shooting. Several threads on here about those options.

 

[wildcat33]

If it shoots good, you dont need to do anything to it. If you want add more weight and potentially compromise reliability with a MT trigger guard and aftermarket mag, plenty choose to do so.

 

[Lytro]

Realistically, nothing is needed and it will be sub MOA out of the box. Customizing stuff sure is fun though. Lol

Even though the factory trigger is pretty good, I do recommend swapping the trigger spring.

 

[amassi]

Prc works out of the long action magazine and fits flush


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[HandgunHTR]

For that specific rifle, the only thing I would do is add a vertical grip module. Other than that, maybe a trigger adjustment and if you want to go lighter than 2.5# a MCARBO spring.

Nothing else really needed.

 

[Macintosh]

For me, a hard-to-find comb from a CTR or varmint model stock allows me a better fit and is more comfortable under recoil. I prefer a rail and rings, so mine has a CTR steel rail (very low profile pic rail) with Low Seekins rings and a 42mm scope, the factory stock is a smidge too low. CTR cheek piece is perfect, and it's angled toward the action so it relieves pressure on your face under recoil--many of the other aftermarket combs dont do that, so I would prefer this one.

 

[atmat]

If you’re keeping the factory stock: a vertical grip ($20) and comb riser (if needed).

An aftermarket stock if you want something that fits you better and/or change in weight.

Otherwise, most of the other upgrades don’t add anything other than weight. The triggers on both my Tikkas got down to 2lbs, so I didn’t even bother replacing springs.

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

Trigger seems stellar. I realize there are great stock options out there. I am following along with the Stockys VG thread. I am cheap and that's probably the direction I will go if need be.

For now I see myself strapping on a Triad stock pad to add a touch of comb height and running the piss out of it all season.

Really just asking why so many seem to change to Mountain Tach bottom metal, bolt shrouds, and generally dick with everything.

I've swapped to a vertical grip on both my T1X and my T3X 7 Mag. Think I even have one more ready to install in my shop.

 

[atmat]

Really just asking why so many seem to change to Mountain Tach bottom metal, bolt shrouds, and generally dick with everything.

Because people like to tinker and/or advertising works.

 

[amassi]

Trigger seems stellar. I realize there are great stock options out there. I am following along with the Stockys VG thread. I am cheap and that's probably the direction I will go if need be.

For now I see myself strapping on a Triad stock pad to add a touch of comb height and running the piss out of it all season.

Really just asking why so many seem to change to Mountain Tach bottom metal, bolt shrouds, and generally dick with everything.

I've swapped to a vertical grip on both my T1X and my T3X 7 Mag. Think I even have one more ready to install in my shop.

Adult legos


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[Tahoe1305]

Limbsaver airtech. Always.

 

[Lytro]

Really just asking why so many seem to change to Mountain Tach bottom metal, bolt shrouds, and generally dick with everything.

Swapping out the OEM bottom metal to actual bottom metal provides more rigidity, which can improve accuracy. Same for aftermarket stock options, plus the ability to adjust comb height and LOP. LOP is something I feel like a lot of people overlook. Will these upgrades matter for normal hunting distances and average shooters? Probably not, but it doesn’t hurt either.

A lot of it just comes down to customization and tinkering. I have a couple custom builds that I think are pretty cool just for the fact that they are literally 1 of 1. Zero chance someone has an identical set up to either of them. Both shoot lights out as well, which couldn’t be said prior to customizing them. I had a magnum cal superlite that I couldn’t shoot for shit beforehand.

 

[Macintosh]

the bolt shrouds used to be plastic on the original t3's. the t3x is no longer plastic and the breakages have essentially stopped. Unless you wind up with an original t3, I would not bother with that.
Same with the rcoil lug--the original t3's were aluminum and some people damaged them, but the T3X ones are steel and dont need replaced.
Nothing wrong with the factory bottom metal. I think people replace it mainly becasue they dont like the idea of plastic. (edit: I have an exceptionally hard time wrapping my head around the bottom metal adding any measurable accuracy--Short of seeing a large amount of data before/after with multiple rifles to show that statistically there was improvement between different bottom metals, I would have a much easier time believing it was another variable such as action torque or how the action was seated in the stock that happened to change when the new BM was installed.) A couple people have posted here about driving a screw head through the plastic bottom metal, and replaced with metal--but this seems extremely rare, especially if you stick to the factory-recommended torque of 45in lb. If you want to torque higher maybe the metal bottom metal is worthwhile from that standpoint? I do think the plastic feels warmer in hand than a metal bottom metal, but apparently I'm a wuss about that.
Also, the aftermarket mags are for reloaders shooting a long-action cartridge--the factory mags feed really well and offer different length options for loading long, as long as you arent using a long-action cartridge.

my t3x hunting rifle is all stock, except for the above mentioned CTR cheekpiece, a vertical grip, I added a hole in front of the magwell and anchored a t-nut inside with epoxy so I have a 2-point attachment for a mini arca rail, and I added flush cups on the side of the stock and foreend so I can carry it with a chest-sling when still-hunting or tracking.

 

[Mountainrancher]

I think a limb saver is a worthwhile upgrade over the factory but pad. That a vertical grip and a cheek riser are all I did to mine.

 

[atmat]

Swapping out the OEM bottom metal to actual bottom metal provides more rigidity, which can improve accuracy.

People say this all the time, but I’m not sure I buy it.

Is metal more rigid than plastic? Sure. But I’m pretty skeptical that a piece that small adds enough rigidity to the system to add any measurable benefit.

Particularly because you're trying to fit it into a tight space in the middle of the stock. If anything, I’d think something more malleable would be better to not introduce new stresses into the stock.

Also, lots of folks report feeding issues with these aftermarket bottom metals.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

i drove an action screw through the factory bottom metal, but the solution wasn't mountain tactical, it was to pillar and glass bed the action to remove the little gap between the bottom metal and the stock.

the real Tikka upgrade is to chop/thread and throw a fat can on the front. Hyperion, nomat LTI, magnus, etc.

 

[ShootOkHuntWorse]

I hogged out my barrel channel, raised the comb height, followed Forms scope mounting tips, and torqued the action screws to 65 in-lbs. I have no barrel contact and it helps when shooting from a bag vs bipod. I was seeing weird POi changes that I’m not anymore. If I could I would chop and suppress it, then be done. Unless a miracle happens and I get more time to shoot long range then I’d get a different scope with a zero stop.


One problem I haven’t figured out is my mag isn’t feeding very well. 223 mag that fits 4 and it doesn’t always push them up to feed. Have to cycle the bolt again and it wiggles them free.

 

[Lytro]

People say this all the time, but I’m not sure I buy it.

Is metal more rigid than plastic? Sure. But I’m pretty skeptical that a piece that small adds enough rigidity to the system to add any measurable benefit.

Particularly because you're trying to fit it into a tight space in the middle of the stock. If anything, I’d think something more malleable would be better to not introduce new stresses into the stock.

Also, lots of folks report feeding issues with these aftermarket bottom metals.

I'd say it definitely provides more rigidity when the action screws go through it and are snugged up against it when torqued. Additionally, metal gives you a lot more flexibility with different torque values.

Zero feed issues experienced on my end with upgraded bottom metal.

 

[atmat]

I'd say it definitely provides more rigidity when the action screws go through it and are snugged up against it when torqued.

Does that increased rigidity improve accuracy in a measurable way? And what happens if it’s not an absolute perfect fit — does the more rigid metal cause/introduce any flex in the less-rigid stock?

Additionally, metal gives you a lot more flexibility with different torque values.

What flexibility over the factory bottom metal? I torque all of mine to 65 without issue.