? for Roofers...

[Broomd]

Guys, I have a 7/12 pitch roof that needs re-shingled. The grit is gone off the 40 year Elk shingle we put down 16 years ago, it's shot down to the fiber.
To be fair, this place gets a helluva lot of weather and abuse. Idaho's worst. Summers are direct sunlight and hard as well.
I got an estimate to remove the old roof--sheeting is great--and lay new shingle, barrier, ice dam etc. the whole nine. (I do not want metal, I put metal on the shop.)

Estimate came in at $16k for about 2600 sq feet. Curious how this jives with current market... I like the guy that came out and bidded.

Opinions appreciated.

 

[Justin Crossley]

I don't know about the area you live but that's not out of line here in Western Washington. If you were closer, I would have some people to recommend.

 

[Dust Rider]

Have you had a recent hail storm? If those 40 years shingles are truly shot that quick, insurance might pick up some of the cost. I would try that route, not much to loose if you got a good adjuster. Not a roofer but a contractor.
Price seems ok. A quality roofer is worth a few extra $$ in our environments.

 

[*zap*]

Call your insurance agent unless it is state farm.

 

[hunterjmj]

Have you thought of cranking it out yourself?

 

[woods89]

Labor and materials, I assume? Not out of line at all, in my opinion, as a general remodeling contractor.

 

[elkguide]

About the same price here. 16 years is a little short but what I'm seeing is that most shingles are good for about half of what they say. Remember that warranties are written by lawyers and the shingle companies are the ones that paid the lawyers. In my many, many years of contracting, I've only seen one time that the shingle company stood behind their product and paid for most of the labor along with replacement shingles. Most of the warranties only provide you with a pro-rated materials replacement cost.

If you like the roofer and he has good references, I'd go with him.

 

[Gutshot007]

Not to totally hijack thread . We pulled shingles off our house and put steel on about 5 years ago . The fasteners are hidden . It went on pretty quck . I dont think i would put another shingle on a house again . In northern mn lots of weather and snow . The whole 20, 30 year shingle thing imo is crock . Good luck

 

[Jon Boy]

Not sure where you are in idaho at but it seems a bit steep if its truly 26 square and not an overly cut up roof. Im not in a cheap area either. Snow removal could be at play or replacing sheeting and or sub fascia from rot? Edit, just saw that is not the case.

Im pretty high on mine because I don't like doing them but I try and get 300 a square for tear off and install.
Looking around 150 a square for material. Call it 165 with a 10% mark up. That puts me at 12k.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[Broomd]

Thanks for the insights, fellas. Really appreciated.
Hunterjmj, typically do this type job myself, I built this house in late '06/'07, but been plagued with a c6-c7 nerve issue in my neck and it's kicked my butt since elk season.
Fortunately I'm still doing what needs done, livestock etc, except for the really big jobs.

This quote is for labor and materials, we live 75 minutes one way from anywhere, so any contractor is traveling a bit for this job.

 

[stonewall]

Have you had a recent hail storm? If those 40 years shingles are truly shot that quick, insurance might pick up some of the cost. I would try that route, not much to loose if you got a good adjuster. Not a roofer but a contractor.
Price seems ok. A quality roofer is worth a few extra $$ in our environments.

agree the insurance. they took care of the roof on my old house. however, my recent house, insurance declined coverage because hail storm was more than a year ago (we were selling and inspection revealed hail damage that we weren't aware of - only historic hail storm in the area was more than a year before our claim)

 

[Hill Difficulty]

I recently paid $450 (cash job) per square for Owens Corning Duration shingles, all materials, tear off, disposal,.... the whole boat.

Knowingly paid top dollar considering storm damage in the same county/everyone booked out, shingle costs at all-time high, roofers getting $550 per square from insurance jobs.

$16,000 is considerably higher per square than I paid, and I paid through the nose. However, the higher cost may be based on market area, travel distance, pitch/roof type, or material quality. Insurance cost for labor can be another variable. Your roofing contractor should be able to easily explain.


Tips:

• Cost or estimate term typically used is "square", meaning per 100 square feet
• Call roofing contractors and ask what they're getting per square - the rate per square means every fee related to tear off, disposal, replacement, labor
• Make sure you clearly know your roof dimension and the quantity of bundles needed
• A sneaky roofer will test you by fudging the estimate by 1,2, or 3 square and/or changing the shingle grade

Hope this is helpful!

 

[tony]

Did steel when it was time for a roof.
For us: it was very cheap, 2 old guys that did it had it done in a day and a halt.
Granted it was a small ranch type house.
Think the warranty for the steel was 40 years

 

[WV Mountaineer]

I’m a general contractor and do my fair share of roofs myself. The going rate here is about $250/sq on a 4/12. On roofing jacks, like a 7/12 is likely going to require, that costs goes up quickly. To say $300-$325 a square. Even $400/square. That with underlayment or roofing felt applied as a base.

Those costs include removing the old shingle, installing new underlayment and new shingles. However, you said Ice dam too. I’m assuming you mean Ice and water guard. If you’re putting it down in place of roofing underlayment, then that price is as low as you are going to get. That stuff is expensive.


I know it’s not common to do an entire roof of that pitch with the Ice and water guard. But, it’s becoming more common then you’d think. Especially on a commercial roof. Which isn’t yours but, the cost of that stuff is huge. However, it’s not needed on the entire roof on any pitch over 3/12 with shingles. So, I’d only put it around the perimeter unless code requires it to substitute for the roofing underlayment. Which it shouldn’t.

26 square at $250/sq is $6500
26 square at $300/sq Is $7800
26 square at $350/sq is $9100
You get the point. And, this is based on my disposable fee and costs associated with it and installation. The costs are likely more out there. However, do a quick Google search on lce and water guard. You get the idea. For 2600 square feet, you are adding $3-$4000 just in material. Not counting the extra labor.

That price sounds very fair to me. And, if not required, I’d ask for underlayment except on the perimeter of the gable’s and eave’s. It’ll save you a 1/3 on total cost.

One thing to check, make sure your roof is adequately ventilated. I know most say shingles don’t meet warranties but, if it’s a good shingle with plenty of ventilation in the attic, they will last every bit as long as warranty suggests.

I know you said the shearing was good but, check underneath in the attic for signs of moisture build up due to inadequate ventilation. It’ll show on the trusses as black. It might not be mold or it might be molded. But, if the trusses are black and starting to deteriorate, get sone gable vents and a good ridge vent installed too.

 

[Jd259]

I’m out in ca and just got a few quotes to do my house it’s about 30 squares and it came in 25-30k to strip and redo the whole thing it be stoked to be payin 16k lol

 

[id_jon]

What kind of shingles is your estimate for? How cut up is the roof? Single story?
Being 75 minutes from anywhere, if this was for Presidential style or Tri-laminate architecturals, then I'd say it's pretty close to the going rate. If it's for standard architecturals like OC Durations, it's on the higher end. Is the guy that bid it going to be any part of the actual job, or do they sub it out?

 

[Broomd]

Good questions guys....the ice dam material is for perimeter only--and 6' up from bottom rafters. The rest is the newer non-felt underpayment. No attic here, just lofted ceiling with 9 1/2 "I"s....sprayed with Icynene expanding foam insulation.

No mold, no issues, very clean setup. Overall very easy roof except for pitch.
Shingle selected is IKO dynasty dimensional in evergreen.

*Front overhang will not be shingled, I added that after initial build and roofing is in great shape.

 

[WV Mountaineer]

I’m going to say one more thing to try and help you. Not to disagree or upset you. Put metal on it. If you sprayed insulation onto the underside of the sheating, it’s a heat issue for those shingles. You aren’t going to get anymore life out of any shingle you put on it. Good luck and God Bless.

 

[Rich M]

Is there a reason you are not going with metal?

Metal might costa bit more but it sure as anything lasts a lot longer and holds its value.

I did my roof in 2006 - insurance covers it at 70 or 80% replacement costs for life and it has been thru at least 5 or 6 hurricanes so far.

 

[Pickettpuncher]

Metal works out fine until the screws start backing out and the rubber washers deteriorate to the point you start having leaks. Standing seam metal is the rage but quite expensive.