Flush Cup Install

[rugerhoyt]

Hey all,

Needing some help. I have a Horizon Vandal C in 22CM that is dang near perfect. Took it out chasing coyotes this weekend and I need a remedy real quick. With my other bolt guns/AR-15 I run the magpul sling in flush cups on the stock so the rifle hangs in front of me, barrel down to my left. This gun is so light, with the harris bipod and suppressor on it is very top heavy and shoulder carrying it is nearly impossible. So 2 things...

Is it possible to self install flush cups into carbon fiber? Would also be okay with looking at a new stock (gun is blacked out, looks tacticool but doesn't fit in the coyote woods) can anyone recommend a stock that would fit a "Horizon Stiller" action?

Thank you!

 

[hereinaz]

I put QD cups on the left side for carry like you mentioned, across the body muzzle to the left/down.

I use a brad tip drill bit with the points that cut on the outside so the carbon fiber doesn’t fray or chip. Use a drill press for best results. 1/2” bit then a little enlarging/fitting so the cups fit, and cut back the foam if needed so there is room for a little epoxy.

https://www.harborfreight.com/brad-point-wood-drill-bit-set-29-piece-61618.html

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[waspocrew]

I would imagine this is another 700 clone, so any stock for a 700 SA should work. I'm a fan of the Manners LRH. You can probably find them with the flush cups installed already.

 

[hereinaz]

I would imagine this is another 700 clone, so any stock for a 700 SA should work. I'm a fan of the Manners LRH. You can probably find them with the flush cups installed already.

Yes, Stillers are Rem 700 clones.

 

[SloppyJ]

I imagine that if by chance it does fray out a bit, you could find some sort of rounded metal trim piece to cover it up and epoxy those in too.

I'd like to see your results. I think the Brad style drill bits are the ticket. I also wonder how a fostner bit would work?

 

[hereinaz]

I imagine that if by chance it does fray out a bit, you could find some sort of rounded metal trim piece to cover it up and epoxy those in too.

I'd like to see your results. I think the Brad style drill bits are the ticket. I also wonder how a fostner bit would work?

I don't think the Forstner would work well, and you'd definitely need to put it in a drill press and clamp the stock.

Lemme get some pics.

 

[Mike D Texas]

A forstener but will make a much cleaner cut. I would still put painters take on the stock prior to drilling.

If you go to Grovtec’s website, they will tell you what size forstener but is required.

They also make attachments that intended for use on hollow stocks, which a lot of them are.


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[rugerhoyt]

Thank you all for the suggestions.

Here is what I’m dealing with. Plan would be to put the flush cup for the forend in the same pocket at the single T-Nut pictured. That T-Nut holds my front swivel. The double T-Nut is for a pic rail mounted at end of forend.

Feel okay with that one, as I can see the whole project there. It is .35 inches thick there so will have to make sure cup is long enough.

Now on to the one I don’t know about…

I tried to pull my butt pad off to see if I can look in and it appears to be glued?

Not sure how I would get a nut on this back cup unless I just cut the seal?


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[waspocrew]

Thank you all for the suggestions.

Here is what I’m dealing with. Plan would be to put the flush cup for the forend in the same pocket at the single T-Nut pictured. That T-Nut holds my front swivel. The double T-Nut is for a pic rail mounted at end of forend.

Feel okay with that one, as I can see the whole project there. It is .35 inches thick there so will have to make sure cup is long enough.

Now on to the one I don’t know about…

I tried to pull my butt pad off to see if I can look in and it appears to be glued?

Not sure how I would get a nut on this back cup unless I just cut the seal?


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Stick a screw driver here and you can remove the pad

 

[rugerhoyt]

Stick a screw driver here and you can remove the pad

View attachment 777213

Did. Pulled the 2 screws out. Believe it’s glued to a plate. Can’t get either off without feeling like I’m going to tear the pad off.


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[hereinaz]

Just drill the hole, the stock is a hollow shell, usually filled with a (edit) dense expanding foam. The forearm is filled with a light expanding foam.

After drilling the hole, cut out some of the foam and put in enough epoxy so that when you put in the cup there is enough behind the carbon fiber to lock the QD cup. After I put the QD cup in, I turn it upside down so that the extra epoxy flows around the QD cup next to the carbon fiber shell.