Flatback savage 111 build ideas

Aroostook

FNG
Joined
May 16, 2019
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14
Hey rifle aficionados,

I have received a free left handed pre accutrigger savage 111 top release 7mm-08 (yes, long action). The rifle is for my partner who is left handed and petite. This is her first rifle but we have a long ways to go before she feels comfortable filling our larder with it. The wood stock on it has the profiling of dimentional lumber and is awkward to handle.

We are looking for ways to make this essentially a slim, compact, light weight rifle for harvesting deer and eastern moose. We have a scope still in the box but that is it. What are your suggestions/similiar builds?
 
The first thing you absolutely NEED to do, is measure the action bolt spacing on that rascal. Savage used 3 action styles back then. A true short action, a true long action & a long action with extended baffle & bolt stop, to reduce to a short action.

All Long Actions = 5.062" (1958 to present, staggered and center-feed magazines)
1st. Gen Short Actions = 4.522" (1959 to 1987, staggered feed magazine)
2nd Gen Short Actions = 4.275" (1998 to 2007, staggered feed magazine)
3rd Gen Short Actions = 4.400" (2005 and up, center-feed magazine)

That'll determine stock availability. I'll be honest though, there isn't much, if anything, available for the old flat-backs that's lightweight, by modern standards, without going full blown $600+ custom inletting

If you wanted to rechamber, well, that's the super easy part. Barrels are inexpensive & simple to install at home with an action & barrel wrench. If you've got one of the oddball long/short actions, you have the choice to go up to an actual LA chambering, by switching out the front bolt baffle too.

Trigger upgrade? Pick your preference. Rifle Basix usually gets the nod there....
 
FYI, everything you need to know about determining exactly what you have, is available here:
Robtattoo,
You may become my savage mentor. Just measured roughly 5 1/8 center to center. The wood on it at this point is about IKEA quality, and am not sure what path to take. She has small hands and really likes the feel of nice trim stocks. I was thinking I could maybe carve this stock down or we could find a nice composite stock. What do you think our best options would be? Are changing right hand stocks just inleting the bolt for left side?
 
If it's an original Beech stock, I doubt you'll find anything lighter in a lefty. You could try your luck on ebay or Savage Shooters classifieds & look for an Accustock to fit (heavier, but slimmer & stiffer) or as you say, take a run at whittling it down.

As much as I love older Savages, if I were in your shoes, I'd honestly be tempted to move it on (generally around $3-400, depending on condition) run to Wal-Mart & pick up a short action Rem 700 ADL for $350. It'll be just as accurate as the older savage (+/-)
Many more options available for customizing to a smaller shooter!
 
Ughh, this has been the conclusion I've ended with as well for lefty's in general. I have a lefty 14 300 wsm with a beautiful walnut stock that I'm tempted to part with so I can go to the rem 700 platform for that reason.
Anyways, for my next question. What is your favorite scope mount/rings setup for the older savages? I was hoping a DNZ mount would be able to accept the scope far enough back without the bell restricting rearward movement.
 
As cheap as they are, I've had a lot of success with the B-Square rail & whatever flavor rings you prefer. I had a set of Talleys on my .280ai, but being in a fixed position meant I had to machine a chamfer on the end of the mounts to allow clearance for the objective lens & magnification ring. Needless to say, it didn't work.
Savage seen to be notorious for having their actions mounted an inch or two farther forward, relative to the trigger, that other manufacturers & that creates mounting issues. A rail & rings is really the only solution (and there's nothing at all wrong with that) unless you've got a really long neck!
 
Robtattoo,
My apologies for such a tardy response. We have done a lot of problem solving with this rifle build. I read a stock making book to better prepare my knowledge base of anatomical correctness within stock design for the designated shooter and proceeded to hack my way through the original stock. I was simply surprised how much it changed the handling characteristics of the rifle, it feels like a custom gun. After the misses and I returned from a long trip to the paint store she decided for now she wants just the plain textured black as the final finish. Per your suggestion we ordered a b-square rail in left hand, imagine, it came to us as right handed. After looking for other options (including a 1 piece leupold base which looks amazing, but once again her neck isn't growing anymore) we started in on more hacking. I turned the right handed b-sqaure rail into a two piece filing flush to where the scope rings are set and milled a touch off the front of the rail to accept that darn objective lens back far enough so its at least useable. So far we have $99 into a bnib Vortex diamondback 3-9, $15 b-square rail, $15 vortex rings, and $20 in paint. The pictures below are one of semi finished outcome and the second regarding bolt lift/clearance from scope. What are your suggestions for being able to grip the bolt when cycling?

Thanks!

As cheap as they are, I've had a lot of success with the B-Square rail & whatever flavor rings you prefer. I had a set of Talleys on my .280ai, but being in a fixed position meant I had to machine a chamfer on the end of the mounts to allow clearance for the objective lens & magnification ring. Needless to say, it didn't work.
Savage seen to be notorious for having their actions mounted an inch or two farther forward, relative to the trigger, that other manufacturers & that creates mounting issues. A rail & rings is really the only solution (and there's nothing at all wrong with that) unless you've got a really long neck!
 

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Nice work!

I was gonna suggest a belt sander.

Thoughts on shortening the barrel? I just took 2" off my Savage .308 and couldn't be happier.

As far as the bolt clearance I would recommend practice. Mine has a tactical handle, I just have to manipulate it in a particular way.
 
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