First tikka barrel swap and NERVOUS

[JVS]

Looking to remove a factory tikka t3 barrel and switch to a 280AI prefit. Plan to order a barrel from OMR or another reputable barrel maker. I have watched a ton of YouTube vids and it honestly looks like there is nothing to it. Is it really that easy? Anyone had any issues with a prefit barrel not being chambered correctly? Any other issues?
I’m fairly mechanically inclined and commited to giving this a go but wanted to cross all my T’s and dot all my I’s! Any feedback back or tips is greatly appreciated!

Jordan

 

[Sled]

There a thread on here specifically about Tikka barrel swaps you should read through. The synopsis is to mount the vise securely, use some powder with paper to hold and give it a whack on an outside action wrench.

And yes, occasionally you'll have headspace issues. Some depends on the Tikka factory QC but most depends on the barrel maker. They screw up plenty in my opinion. I prefer to have it chambered locally by a known, competent smith.

 

[hereinaz]

I do a bunch. We sell Preferred Prefits and haven’t had a headspace issue yet. Use a headspace gauge.

Yes, check out the threads on it. Get good tools.

 

[Steve300xcw]

Its easy enough. Just unscrew the thing.

Now if you have some sorta betty crocker DIY "workbench" thats made outta tin. I can see that giving you some trouble. Barrel vise needs to be solid.

 

[mtnbound]

Looking to remove a factory tikka t3 barrel and switch to a 280AI prefit. Plan to order a barrel from OMR or another reputable barrel maker. I have watched a ton of YouTube vids and it honestly looks like there is nothing to it. Is it really that easy? Anyone had any issues with a prefit barrel not being chambered correctly? Any other issues?
I’m fairly mechanically inclined and commited to giving this a go but wanted to cross all my T’s and dot all my I’s! Any feedback back or tips is greatly appreciated!

Jordan

Easy to do, I have used 1 barrel from OMR and 3 from LSWILD.
The only issue I had was that I did not loosen the external action wrench once the action was broken free, or, one could say, I over-tightened the wrench, which damaged some action threads that required a quick bottom tap to clean them up.

Thread 'Factory Barrel Removal and Viper vice hack'

Mar 10, 2025

A barrel slipping is usually the weak link in pulling factory barrels, especially stubborn ones like Howa and Tikka.

I have found a few things make it simpler and possible on the most stubborn barrels. Do all of them and I bet the vast majority of barrels will come off. If you don’t get just one of them right, it can make it hard if not impossible.

I think they is why many people can’t get the same success with some of the same tools. It has taken me a few dozen barrels to figure stuff out.

Put Kroil inside the action in the corner where the barrel face and action meet. Give it time...

• hereinaz
• Replies: 60
• Forum: Firearms

• 

Thread 'Barrel Vise Recommendations'

Jun 2, 2025

The top plate of my viper bent while trying to remove a tikka barrel (mission failed) and I find myself in a position where I can either replace just the top plate or switch to a different system.

Typical use for the vise has been carbon barrels so the standard viper has not been ideal (but worked totally fine as long as you don’t crunch down on the carbon). I am considering switching to narrower viper hd, but I don’t think they sell just the top plate for that model. I plan on calling them to find out since they claim the top plate will work on the standard 4 post viper. $50 sounds more...

• TxLite
• Replies: 82
• Forum: Firearms

 

[HuntHarder]

T3 barrels have been considerably tighter than the T3x barrels I've done. I used to soak my barrel threads in penetrating oil for a couple days before I spun them off. I have never had to make a relief cut, but man, a couple have required a few extra hacks of the dead blow.

 

[TaperPin]

It should be stressed that only the front of the receiver should be gripped or twisted. From the ejection port rearward should never be clamped, twisted, pried on, or relied on to “help” in any way. Every year someone online tweaks their receiver and the bolt won’t cycle, if they admit it or not. The quickest way to scrap a rifle known to man.

If you’re mechanically inclined and a good self learner, no reason not to replace a barrel. Strong barrel and action clamps, good judgement and some heat go a long way.

A relief cut around the barrel will relieve a lot of tension on the threads, just leave at least 1/16” between the receiver and the hacksaw, and don’t try it with a sawzall or you’ll scratch the heck out of the receiver.

 

[eLightfoot]

Barrel vice mounted to 2” steel tubing and inserted into a tow hitch works if you don’t have a solid bench. Don’t over tighten the action wrench, it will distort the action and clamp down on threads. Apply pressure on the action wrench and give the handle a pop with a mini sledge and that usually pops the barrel loose. The hardest part of the process is clamping the factory barrel in a way that it doesn’t slip. If the barrel is slipping in the vice it won’t work.

 

[dårlig jeger]

Barrel vice mounted to 2” steel tubing and inserted into a tow hitch works if you don’t have a solid bench. Don’t over tighten the action wrench, it will distort the action and clamp down on threads. Apply pressure on the action wrench and give the handle a pop with a mini sledge and that usually pops the barrel loose. The hardest part of the process is clamping the factory barrel in a way that it doesn’t slip. If the barrel is slipping in the vice it won’t work.

Yes, the barrel can't slip in the vise and the less the vise can move, the better.

You want that blow to the wrench to go 100% into the action. If the vise moves, (think bench shakes or slides or turns or even makes a noise), you're losing some of your work.

Something really, really heavy or bolted to concrete is ideal.

 

[NWBLKTAIL]

I tried all the barrel grip hacks and finally got some powder rosin from my local smith and put on the barrel on jaws of my vise. Plus making the vise tighter than you would think necessary and I’ve had 3 barrels come off no slip, no marring. I also do a 2-3 day soak with penetrating oil

I used a Python HD vise. That SAC vise seems like it would be tits with the barrel inserts like @hereinaz has

 

[blacktailcentral]

A little heat went a long way on 3 that ive pulled off!

 

[hereinaz]

I tried all the barrel grip hacks and finally got some powder rosin from my local smith and put on the barrel on jaws of my vise. Plus making the vise tighter than you would think necessary and I’ve had 3 barrels come off no slip, no marring. I also do a 2-3 day soak with penetrating oil

I used a Python HD vise. That SAC vise seems like it would be tits with the barrel inserts like @hereinaz has

Kroil seems helpful.

I have used lead sheet, rosin, leather with rosin, and drywall tape. The drywall tape has never failed, and protects.

Whatever the vice, it has to be absurdly tight. Some might bend or break.

 

[hereinaz]

A little heat went a long way on 3 that ive pulled off!

A good Kroil soak for a couple of days and a torch on the action to heat it quickly (but not too much) would be included in my strategy if used anything but a SAC vice.

Meant to add more about a new vice I am hoping works out.

I am trying out the Buffalo Creek Vice, made of steel with a Tikka Insert. I feel better about cranking it down absurdly tight. The SAC flexes when I get it as tight as I need. It has only slipped when I tried to get it tight enough, but it takes every bit with the Allen key. That is how I know it is tight enough.

 

[Pickettpuncher]

I’ve tore 2 apart and failed on another, but I didn’t get overly serious either as I wasn’t gonna change the barrel. First I done with a homemade vise and v blocks. Wrapped the barrel with a lead “strap” and tightened it down. Think I made 2-3 attempts before it came loose. It was insanely tight. Then I had unsuccessful attempts doing same method trying to remove barrels for threading. I didn’t get rough. During the last one I galled the threads up bad on my vise. It’s to the point I will cut the “bolts” off and start over. I did purchase a viper afterward. When I got ready to break the last one apart I soaked it in kroil everyday for probably 2 weeks. Finally got the vise in and it took me a couple attempts to get it. I was a bit concerned with over tightening the viper. And I didn’t split the top. So when I hit my wrench to break loose it would spin itself loose. The last time I readjusted my whole setup, tightened the snot out of it and popped it loose.

 

[hereinaz]

I’ve tore 2 apart and failed on another, but I didn’t get overly serious either as I wasn’t gonna change the barrel. First I done with a homemade vise and v blocks. Wrapped the barrel with a lead “strap” and tightened it down. Think I made 2-3 attempts before it came loose. It was insanely tight. Then I had unsuccessful attempts doing same method trying to remove barrels for threading. I didn’t get rough. During the last one I galled the threads up bad on my vise. It’s to the point I will cut the “bolts” off and start over. I did purchase a viper afterward. When I got ready to break the last one apart I soaked it in kroil everyday for probably 2 weeks. Finally got the vise in and it took me a couple attempts to get it. I was a bit concerned with over tightening the viper. And I didn’t split the top. So when I hit my wrench to break loose it would spin itself loose. The last time I readjusted my whole setup, tightened the snot out of it and popped it loose.

All snot must definitely be squeezed.

But, be warned, I bent the base of a viper by over tightening, LOL.

I can’t get the top off the vice because the bolts are now angled towards each over. I will have to pull the top off and elongate the holes.

 

[HuntHarder]

8 tikkas now on my Viper. The T3x's are night and day easier than a T3. I use drywall tape, tighten the shit out of the vice and an external wrench with a cheater and a whack from a hammer. The last 4 have left little to no mark on the barrel. The first few T3's was a serious learning curve. They all spun a little at first. The T3 barrels aren't worth anything because of their twist rates anyway.

 

[Boreal]

I just took off a barrel from a T3x light using the vise, wrench, and bushings from Buffalo Creek Machine. Kyle is still working on the wrench and I bought a kit from him to be one of the earlier testers. I did all the YouTube searching and his wrench idea specific to Tikka actions looked intriguing. And it worked brilliantly. A 24” breaker bar on the wrench and my 205 body weight did the trick. Used old targets to wrap the barrel and the action, no marks on either.

I’m not affiliated, just wanted to support a small business coming out with a great idea. I paid full price for the kit.

This is his video…

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Pickettpuncher]

All snot must definitely be squeezed.

But, be warned, I bent the base of a viper by over tightening, LOL.

I can’t get the top off the vice because the bolts are now angled towards each over. I will have to pull the top off and elongate the holes.

This is my homemade vise. The bolts are roughly 3/4/7-8. The bars are 1”+ square solid steel. I think the came off a trash truck. The top bar is bent. When I tightened it I have a 2 foot breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater bar.

 

[hereinaz]

This is my homemade vise. The bolts are roughly 3/4/7-8. The bars are 1”+ square solid steel. I think the came off a trash truck. The top bar is bent. When I tightened it I have a 2 foot breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater bar. View attachment 991635

That’s a beast!