First "Custom" Build - Any Pointers?

[gelton]

WKR's,

I have decided to do some custom work to my Weatherby Backcountry in .300wm (Vanguard version, not MK V) and having never done anything of the sort I am sure that I will miss or overlook some details that might be important.

Here are the specifics:

Action - as most already know the Vanguard is based on the Howa action which IMO is better than a factory Rem 700 action. It certainly isn't better than a custom Rem 700 clone, but apples to apples I give the nod to Howa. I am already aware of the host of other problems this causes due to a lack of aftermarket support but this rifle was a gift from my Dad who is getting up in age and I don't just want to throw it to the side and replace it, I want to make it better. I also don't have the budget for a custom Rem 700 clone.

Barrel - 24" Proof Carbon with Seekins ATC Muzzle Brake. I know there are lots of opinions on carbon barrels in general and this carbon barrel vs that carbon barrel, but this has already been ordered and is due to be delivered today.

Bottom Metal - this is the first issue I ran into regarding aftermarket support for the Howa Long Action - (there seems to be a lot more support for their short actions vs long action) - the only bottom metal that I could locate that offers a longer COAL than factory is LegacyWorx out of Australia which offers one that is AICS mag compatible but that still only gets me to 3.719 which is .20 longer than factor but not close to the 3.790 (or larger) offered for some of the Rem700 Long actions. I will be shooting 215 Berger Hybrids as I was recently able to source a fairly good bit of them along with some Lapua brass.

Stock - another drawback to building off the Howa LA is that you are extremely limited in your stock selection. I am most likely going with McMillan Game Warden in Carbon as that is one of the only stocks that they inlet for the Howa and I haven't found any other reputable stock makers that inlet for the Howa LA. There are some chassis manufacturers with Howa support but I am not too keen on putting a large magnum in a chassis. This will be primed from McMillan but finished with Cerakote at the smith. Left side flush cups and 2" pic rail up front.

Trigger - Already have a Timney trigger installed on the original and am happy with it so that is what I am going to stick with.

I am going to top it off with a Nightforce ATAC-R 4-16x42 on a Nightforce Rail and Nighforce UL rings - which should also be delivered today.

I had hoped to use Alamo Precision which is only about 1.5 hours from me but they kind of turned their nose up at the Howa LA, so I am most likely going to use Long Rifle Inc out of South Dakota for the cut, chambering, and finish work as they are one of the only well-known shops that aren't scared away from working on a Howa. Essentially this is a re-barrel but I do want the chambering and throat reamed for the Berger 215 hybrids to be .020 off the lands based on the COAL limitation of 3.719.

Questions/Comments -

1. What am I missing? Is there anything that I haven't thought of but should have?

2. Goal for this rifle is sub 7lbs (unscoped and empty) and the current rifle (Weatherby backcountry) is 6.75lbs with a Bell & Carlson aluminum bedding block stock and a #2 contour barrel, so I am guessing that this build will keep me close to that. I know there is a method for figuring out how much a barrel will weigh but I have not been able to calculate the weight of just the barrel for the factory backcountry that I will be spinning off of it and I am not exactly sure how much the action weighs...any input or advice here would be helpful.

3. I know arca rails are all the rage these days but I know nothing about them really. Was thinking of getting the studs installed from McMillan so that if I wanted to add one at a later date it would be easy to just bolt one on. For those that use an arca + tripod - where should I put the studs or should I just get one installed straight from McMillan, if so what location and length? How much weight does that typically add? Would/could it replace the Picatinny?

Apologies for the long post but wanted to include as much detail as possible. Any feedback, tips, and pointers are welcome and encouraged.

 

[gelton]

First, if you are allocating funds for a carbon wrapped barrel blank to be chambered by a smith and cerakoting a stock, you have the funds to buy a better action. I've been down the semi-custom road several times, and I've also built a rifle around an action that had sentimental value. I get it. But you are starting down the wrong path for your first custom build, and you'll be spending good money after bad down the road. Don't throw away your dad's action, and incrementally upgrade it down the road if you want, but recognize it for what it is.

Focus on buying the right gear that you won't have to fight against. The R700 footprint remains the goliath in the industry, and it gives you the most stock/chassis options. The stock/chassis is how you interface with the rifle and has the largest impact on the shooter side of the equation. Don't compromise. Find a stock that has the correct length of pull, comb height, high heel, vertical grip, correct distance from grip to trigger, flat forend parallel with bore, etc (Manners LRH for example, which is offered for R700 footprints). The monte carlo rear of the Game warden is bad. The comb is low. The forend is angled. The toe is too steep and isn't conducive to using a rear bag particularly with a magnum. Hard pass. If money is an issue, definitely skip on the cerakote.

The barrel is the most important component as it relates to mechanical precision. Also don't compromise here. Buy one of the many quality barrels available (bartlein, benchmark, proof, brux, etc). If you are pinching pennies, skip on the carbon wrapped blank and return the one you ordered. A quality steel barrel chambered by someone good will be about $650 - $850. But if you are patient, and you buy a modern custom action that accepts prefits, you can find a prefit CF wrapped proof for about the same price.

In terms of action, you can pick-up a Mack Bros for $800, an ARC CDG for $900, a Zermatt Arms Origin for $1000, etc. Tons of options out there. Lots of options and features don't really matter and I think people put way too much focus on the action.

For bottom metal, I prefer the ease and management associated with dbm, but bdl can work too. Lots of options. I'd lean towards an M5 pattern bdl (Hawkins for example) so that you could easily switch to dbm if you want down the road.

If tripod shooting is something you are interested in, get a 4.25" Area 419 or Henderson rail installed just forward of your magwell. My A419 acra rails weigh about 1.5 oz. You can go full length, but sounds like you don't want that option. I'd skip the swivels altogether - majority of modern quality bipods & tripod heads attach via pic and/or arca. At a minimum get a pic rail installed at the forend. Go with flush cups on the side for sling mounting - I'd get both sides front and back.


I'll keep beating the dead horse - stock/chassis choice is by far the most important component. Don't limit yourself here, and don't let the action dictate your stock/chassis. If you absolutely refuse to get a new action, source a flat top stock that has all the right features that accommodates an appropriate fit, and have a smith custom inlet it (which will add costs to the build). I've spent tens of thousands on all kinds of stocks/chassis, and without a doubt there is a significant difference in performance when you get a rifle to properly fit you as the shooter. The importance can't be overstated.

All good stuff...I am set on this build being on this action. I have several other Remington 700 actions but do not need two .300wm. I am guessing I might build a 7mm SAUM or PRC off of one of the others.

As for stocks - I tend to agree with you and have heard similar complaints about the Game Warden. With that being said - I also don't have enough experience or testing with aftermarket stocks to even know what I am looking for as far as fit, comb height, etc as I have only shot factory offerings across a wide range of brands and most, if not all of them seem to fit me just fine, so I don't have enough info on what I might be looking for, just a weight that I am trying to hit for a finished rifle.

So, let's assume I get a flat top and/or letting isn't an issue, what might you recommend? I like the looks of the Manners you mentioned but I also don't really want an adjustable cheek weld. They offer the same stock without it but the largest barrel it would accept is a Sendero light contour and the barrel is a full Sendero.

 

[wind gypsy]

They offer the same stock without it but the largest barrel it would accept is a Sendero light contour and the barrel is a full Sendero.

If the LRH doesn’t accept a proof sendero, that’s a really stupid mistake on Manners part. That doesn’t make any sense with that stock design since it doesn’t even have a true barrel channel.

 

[DangerRanger]

The LRH can accept a proof sendero

Source:
The one on their site for sale inletted for a proof sendero

 

[gelton]

Ya'll are correct, I was looking at a different model.

 

[gelton]

So @TK-421 - any thoughts on thier newest offering the MCS-PH? Like the idea of a recessed pic rail and arca rail. Versus an AG Composites Alpine Hunter or something similar?

 

[Sevens]

The bolt stop on the Howa (Vanguard) is pretty weak. I’ve broken one during the normal course of working the bolt.

As many have said, don’t fight upstream and, instead, get something R700 footprint based like the Bighorn origin. The Bighorn is a R700 footprint, great action, and you can find tons of prefits for it due to its popularity should you want to try a different caliber later. Just one option though, lots of others like Kelbly, Lone Peak, Defiance, etc. that would all fit the bill.