What is the preferred method for field judging spread on moose? I know on deer around here, a reasonably accurate estimate can be made based on ear width, but I'm curious as to the best method for determining something like a 50 inch spread on moose?
I left Alaska 2 years ago with no moose even though we had a real nice bull at 250yds, we could tell he didn't have 4 brow tines but with a little snow falling we just couldn't be sure if he was 50+ so we didn't shoot, just to be clear, it was very hard not to shoot!! 4 brow tines or BIG without a doubt is the best bet unless you are a gambler.
Using the width of the head at the widest point (across the eyes) as a 10 inch guide is helpful in judging antler spread. Another common method used by moose hunting guides, is to visualize the ears laid out horizontally to the sides of the head, then use this "visualized" distance between the tips of the ears as a 28-30 inch guide. Imagine adding a foot from the tip of each flattened ear for a safe 50 inch guide, or double the 30 for a 60 inch moose. The approximate length of an adult bull moose's ear is 10 inches, the width of a moose's head is also roughly 10 inches. To effectively judge a bull you need a good straight-on look at him. Giving a quiet grunt or cow call just loud enough to be heard will cause him to look and listen, thus providing the ideal perspective.
Always allow for an acceptable margin of error if judging a bull close to 50 inches!
I know that was tough passing, and that's precisely what I am worried about. I've heard the 8-10 inch head width thing, but I feel like that is still a substantial gamble.
I don't know if anybody has any good shots of moose they've killed, but I think it would be great to see some pictures of bulls taken and their measurements. Obviously a picture never does it justice, but if nothing else, it's a chance for some shameless bragging on some bulls killed.
The best way to know what a 50"+ bull looks like on the hoof is to view a lot of moose in normal gait. I could post pics of bulls ranging all around 50-60" (some smaller than 50"), but judging a bull on the hoof standing 8-9' weighing close to 1700-lbs is NOT the same as trying to imprint a "size memory" of a bull on the ground. So i wont waste your time with pictures, but i do have hundreds in my Float Draggin' book and videos
So, that said, here's some rules of thumb I use:
1. Broadside view with bull's head 90 degrees to your position: If a bull's antler tips extend to the rear of the shoulder hump, he's wider than 50"
2. Head on view with rack wider than a bull's body. If his antlers curve UPward vs flat-lying spreads, he's likely under 50".
3. Rule of 9s or 10s: If you have a head on view and clearly can see to measure the width between its eye orbits, a good safe bet is to expect this distance to be roughly 9" (textbook theory is 10"). I use the 9" rule to have a more conservative estimate on overall width. Once you have a 9" rule between the eyes, "judge" the 9" segments of antler width right and left of the eye orbits...giving you an estimate of total width. I use this only as a source for dual confirmation, say, with the broadside view with antler tips in proximity of the shoulder hump.
4. Browtine count: straightforward though difficult in many scenarios. Dual confirmation required for safe judging.
When all else fails and you still dont feel confident...leave that bull for me to eat....
Larry's advice is spot on. Many guys try to use the antler bases and a width of 9 or 10 inches. I have found that there can be way too much hair covering the bases, or not much at all. You could be off by 2 inches. Using the eyeballs is a much better spot.
If you need to practice you can make a set of antlers that are big enough out of cardboard or thin under-layment and set them up at shooting distances to practice judging. make sure to change power settings on your optics, and see if there is something in your optics that allow for marking. Most bino's and spotters do not have anything, but a scope does. Its best to use this to learn how to determine the minimum size.
The one thing about a big moose is that when you see one you know its big. The problem for most folks is that they have not see many moose and any bull they see is big when they really aren't all that big.
You also need to understand what counts as a point on a moose. It has to be longer/taller than it is wide at 1 inch down from the tip. Here is an example of a moose that appears legit.
Be aware that some very experienced moose hunters said this moose was 52" wide when looking at the photo. Take a hard look at everything you see in that image around that rack and think about that.
So the two points I marked would be border line points, correct? If so and had I seen these on one side of the bulls I saw while I was there I probably would have pulled the trigger! I can see how it would be very difficult to determine that type of measurement at 200 yds away, I would bet that through binos it would look as if there were 4 distinct legal points on this bull.
JPD350, you have the right idea, and most guys that are desperate for a moose would shoot this bull in a 4 brow tine area despite not having anywhere near the width needed.
The left middle point is nearly 1.5 inches wide one inch down from the tip so its not a point. The second middle point is right at the legal dimensions. Both wide points on the other side are also right at the legal dimensions. This bull is 38 1/2 inches wide. His genetics are awesome, but he was killed long before he would have been breeding.
I nearly ran over this rack when driving in to caribou hunt in Unit 13 a few years ago. I picked it up and asked a few folks camped nearby about it. Nobody knew anything. On the way out a few days later I met up with the Trooper and he had been looking for the rack. The shooter had turned themselves in the night I found the rack on the road.
When counting brow tines make sure they look like fingers rather than toast points.
Thanks for posting the pic Ray, I hadn't given the brow point width much thought before but that pic really shows that the width and length issue can be easily misjudged while the moose is on the hoof.
The way that worked best for me was to buy a scope with mil dots, then bust out your math skills and figure out how many mil dots you need (to get 50 inches width) at 25 yard increments. Fill out a chart with these numbers then tape it to the butt of your gun. Then when you are out in the field you can range a moose with your rangefinder and then put your scope on him and use your table to determine if he is 50 inches or not. It takes some faith in the system and a few good looks at the moose dead straight on, but I was able to take a 53" moose confidently, knowing he was over 50" before I pulled the trigger. There are lots of ways to do it, but this is what worked best for me.
I use a Strelok ballistic app that also has my plain duplex reticle (and hundreds of others). With range and magnification setting, it tells me the distance between the fine to wide duplex points are on the target. Like Flydaho, I also have a cheat sheet
I've found that the best way to learn how to judge bull moose is to get out there and look over as many as possible. Hunting an area that requires 50" or 4 brows makes things tough but I have learned how to judge bulls and can usually get within a couple of inches when field judging them.