Favorite Bedding Compound?

[Wiscgunner]

Marinetex grey

 

[Sevens]

I like MarineTex Grey, but lately I've been lazy and just used the cheap and easy to find JB Weld. Give it some time prior to use to thicken up and it works great.

 

[shortyrut]

just curious, has anyone ever seen any of the above mentioned "fail" in any way.

 

[DJL2]

I had a failed bedding job with Pro Bed 2000. It wasn't one of mine (I did 2x M70 and a T3x, no issues other than the atrocious appearance after I was done... perfectly functional). A gunsmith did a barreled action for me based off an ARC Nucleus Gen 2. They skim bedded the rifle along the sides of the action, which proved inadequate. They also failed to properly relieve the bedding around the recoil lug. Lastly, they didn't appropriately clearance the tang. The result was bedding that started to break/chunk out of the gun while ruining accuracy.

I keep Pro Bed 2000 on the bench (or I did when I still had a bench at least) and could have re-done the job... I elected to have the stock fitted with a Manners mini chassis instead.

 

[Newtosavage]

I always liked JB Weld

Same, and I always have some handy.

 

[Hill Difficulty]

I had a failed bedding job

DJK2

You had a failed bedding job or the bedding material failed? Or, a bad bedding job caused the bedding to fail?

If material failure, very difficult to compromise quality epoxy unless the prep work or mix ratios were careless. Whether Devcon, ProBed 2000, JB, Marine Tex,... All of that stuff is failure proof with proper preparation.

 

[SDHNTR]

Acraglass. Long pot life and forgiving to work with.

 

[Alg22]

Anyone recommend a tried-true approach to bedding? I know there are hundreds of YouTube videos. Looking for your expertise on what works - a reliable/simple approach.

Looking to bed a Ruger M77 Tang 270 Winchester on a Boyd featherweight thumbhole stock.

 

[Hill Difficulty]

Hi Alg22

I'm not a pro and I don't recall a particular video... but I've watched a few vids that were helpful. Have done at least 20 bed jobs. Zero fails. Most were full receiver on 700 or 700-clone actions + bedding the tang and lug on the 5 or so CZ actions I've owned.

Similar to a CZ, a Ruger action has a flat bottom, so bedding the tang and the action lug might be all that is needed. Be sure to confirm cuz I have zero knowledge of bedding a Ruger receiver.

Some thoughts/suggestions:

• Consider using Devcon 52345 Plastic Steel Epoxy. Cost is less than $10, makes 2 oz (can do a full 700 receiver or many tang/lug jobs with 2 oz), has a 60-min harden time, minimal mess, can use on all kinds of stuff. It's also 2-part, so can eyeball 50/50.
• Tho guys argue about it... can use any known release agent incl KIWI clear shoe polish, which is most easy to find (Walmart, Target, online...) + can use on your shoes, whatever.
• #1 is to have a full mental grasp of the bedding concept. Start with identifying and relieving any and all stress points where the stock can cause binding on the action metal. There's nothing fun about any of it, btw, and always think at least 2X before you tell anyone that you know how to do it.
• Most of the time & work is prepping the stock and action. Be smart about the epoxy work time - it can seem like disabling a time bomb.
• I use a lot of Q-tips and isopropyl alcohol to clean surfaces before and after. Isopropyl also great for cleaning epoxy from hands/fingers.
• Buy/use high quality masking and electrical tape. Have a sharp Exacto knife for cutting tape.
• One more reason to own a Dremel tool.

Hope this helps!

 

[hicountry1]

Devcon plastic steel..... $5 at a HW store...

Have bedded dozens with it.

 

[DJL2]

DJK2

You had a failed bedding job or the bedding material failed? Or, a bad bedding job caused the bedding to fail?

If material failure, very difficult to compromise quality epoxy unless the prep work or mix ratios were careless. Whether Devcon, ProBed 2000, JB, Marine Tex,... All of that stuff is failure proof with proper preparation.

Sorry boss, didn't mean to let this sit. Don't cruise back as often as I should. I had Sterling Precision chamber a Proof CF barrel and I also bought a Manners CS-2 from them. I figured I'd have them bed the rifle while I was at it. That's the setup.

Bottom line, it was a bad bedding job. Looked nice enough when it showed up (especially compared to mine), if not quite on the level of someone like LRI. However, when I headed to the range, the bedding started chunking out/breaking apart. I would assess they did not properly relieve the recoil lug as well as the tang. Between the bedding breaking apart and the rifle double grouping, it amounted to a waste of far more money than I care to recall.

 

[LRI_Chad]

FWIW:

Take the time to clay your stuff correctly. Ensure the inlet is spot on. Use a rock solid release agent, and MIX the snot out of the resin and catalyst. DON'T stir it in a cup. Use a piece of glass and knead it back and forth with a 4" wide putty knife. It'll keep the air out of it.

Smear in the thin layer and work it into the stock with a finger, so it saturates into the core material. If using aluminum pillars, scuff the snot out of them. Put a "snorty" tooth on the exterior and wash with alcohol.

Whatever resin you elect to use it should do the following:

• Open clamp time of 45m or more
• High percentage of solids
• High shore hardness
• High tolerance to chemicals/alkalies
• Low percentage of shrinkage

Cleanup. Test this first, but many Devcon products clean up great with good ol hot water and Dawn soap. Just be sure it dissolves and doesn't clump. Your sink trap will let you know! lol. Run the water for a few min after to ensure it flushes out of your pipes.

25+ years with no issues.

Good luck.

C.