Exposed turrets?

[cuerro viejo]

Prob not enough. It’s annoying to see people pass off absolute bad information as fact.

You weren’t wrong though Maybe a touch heavy on the direct but spot on otherwise

Now, All we need is an ethics post on why anything over 250 is un- ethical

 

[TimberHunter]

I went back to the links. I found one that I think would allow me to zero the rifle and then create an accurate, customized DOPE chart. Based on my skill level, I already sorta had that since I am using common ammo/caliber.

I didn't see a form answer to my original question...
At 400 yards, I need to adjust 4.2 MOA. Do I need exposed turrets to do that? Or do I remove my scope caps for each adjustment? (Or do I learn where 4.2 MOA is on my reticle based on recommendations in this thread)

Since you’re newish, don’t go turning your turrets if they don’t have some type of zero stop. You’ll likely lose your zero.

Buy a cheap SWFA 10x fixed scope for sub $300 (bomb proof and proved over and over on this forum), commit an afternoon to watching some
videos or reading how to use mils by Formidilosu on here. Then go practice. It’s really not that hard nor expensive


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[CAElkhunter]

Agree with all the Hold over comments above. I have been on two separate outfitted hunts where clients were busy dialing their scopes on Bulls at 300 yds because they had turrets and zero at 200 yds. Both time the guides were shaking their heads and saying at this distance just put it on the top of the elk and shooooot! Both times the Bull got away due to the fiddling. You should be able to shoot out to 400 without any need for dialing turrets. As someone above said KISS. In the heat of the moment no need to complicate things.

 

[cuerro viejo]

I went back to the links. I found one that I think would allow me to zero the rifle and then create an accurate, customized DOPE chart. Based on my skill level, I already sorta had that since I am using common ammo/caliber.

I didn't see a form answer to my original question...
At 400 yards, I need to adjust 4.2 MOA. Do I need exposed turrets to do that? Or do I remove my scope caps for each adjustment? (Or do I learn where 4.2 MOA is on my reticle based on recommendations in this thread)

No you don’t BUT certain scopes were designed around constant dialing and return to zero and others not so much.. I have a little capped SHV 3-10 that I have removed cap and dialed multiple times. .

As far as your reticle holds they work at the correct power setting and if you ballastic solution is correct for current vs sight in DA. Biggest issue is having to be correct power setting for SFP scope. If you have a 2-12 it’s second nature, if you have 24X that’s a whole other issue.

Basically two options- go practice and verify your reticle and it’s holds, and/or invest in a system that offers a little more repeatability and ease of use.

 

[fatlander]

I’ve got a 3-12 Zeiss Conquest V4 with capped turrets and their MOA Christmas tree reticle in the scope that’s on one of my rifles. Using Zeiss’s ballistic calculator, with my rifle’s information, it’s been spot on. It does everything I need it to do at the distances the OP is talking about shooting.

I like decreasing fiddle factor when I can. Dialing within 400 yards is fiddling that isn’t necessary in my opinion, if you’ve got a reticle and calculator you’re comfortable with that you’ve verified at the range.


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[Wrench]

It's an elk at 400 yards.....not a ground squirrel. That's the prime environment for a holdover. Use your opportunity time to find a rest and shot angle....not fiddle with turrets.

This coming from a guy with a lot of target turret scopes.

 

[Wrench]

I went back to the links. I found one that I think would allow me to zero the rifle and then create an accurate, customized DOPE chart. Based on my skill level, I already sorta had that since I am using common ammo/caliber.

I didn't see a form answer to my original question...
At 400 yards, I need to adjust 4.2 MOA. Do I need exposed turrets to do that? Or do I remove my scope caps for each adjustment? (Or do I learn where 4.2 MOA is on my reticle based on recommendations in this thread)

Shoot a tall target at 400yds aiming for center. While aiming center, locate the impact point in your scope.

This is your holdover. It's that easy. There's a need to verify what mag settings you're on with a sfp scope....but typically @ 400 just pick a spot like wide open 9x on a 3x9 and locate the impact point.

Rock on.

 

[LongWayAround]

Agree with all the Hold over comments above. I have been on two separate outfitted hunts where clients were busy dialing their scopes on Bulls at 300 yds because they had turrets and zero at 200 yds. Both time the guides were shaking their heads and saying at this distance just put it on the top of the elk and shooooot! Both times the Bull got away due to the fiddling. You should be able to shoot out to 400 without any need for dialing turrets. As someone above said KISS. In the heat of the moment no need to complicate things.

That's a function of the shooter not knowing how to use their equipment, not because it takes too long to do for someone who is competent.

For my gun and preferred hunting bullet at 300yd, a 200yd zero means 8" of fall or 0.7mil and a 100yd zero means 13.8" fall or 1.3mil.

It takes maybe a couple of seconds to dial that or find the hash mark in the scope. It's not complicated.

If you're trying to do it with a capped scope and duplex reticle... well that's what you get.

 

[mt terry d]

In Montana on a pack hunt with horses and scabbards. My brothers 300 win mag was off by near a foot and a half when we came back after getting bumped. He had a Vortex Viper Gen 1 with exposed turrets and a zero stop. He didn't set the zero stop perfectly (gen 1s have the old "shim" system.)

He didnt have shot at an elk but when we got back he noticed it was moved. Took it to the range. A full 18 inches off zero.

wow.
just wow.

 

[Bluumoon]

I went back to the links. I found one that I think would allow me to zero the rifle and then create an accurate, customized DOPE chart. Based on my skill level, I already sorta had that since I am using common ammo/caliber.

I didn't see a form answer to my original question...
At 400 yards, I need to adjust 4.2 MOA. Do I need exposed turrets to do that? Or do I remove my scope caps for each adjustment? (Or do I learn where 4.2 MOA is on my reticle based on recommendations in this thread)

The reason I didn’t answer directly is there’s a lot to unpack prior to dialing or not dialing. For example, every time you buy new ammo even the “same” ammo your holdover may change. If your scope isn’t mounted correctly or doesn’t hold zero you’ll be unable to consistently figure out why you are missing.

I had 5 different guys over this year to help them get “sighted” in. I did what I could w what they were working with from ground up (remounting and proper zeroing). At the end I’d grab one of my rifles, call distances and dial elevation. They’d go from missing every thing past 200 on 10” plate with their rifles(even that was hit or miss) to nailing nearly every shot out to 450. Not part of the 5 guys, had a particularly sharp 11 year old consistent hitting 10” plate at 690 yards, but that was after spending a morning working on foundations.

 

[Bluumoon]

In regards to holding/ dialing. At 300yards I can use holdovers on 10” plate to my heart’s content. At 450” even knowing exact holdovers there are a lot more missed than dialing.

 

[Bluumoon]

If you have to pop the caps to dial, it’s the wrong scope for dialing.

 

[mad_angler]

If you have to pop the caps to dial, it’s the wrong scope for dialing.

That's an answer that is concrete and gives me direction...

 

[TradLife406]

All my guns now have Maven RS1.2's. Even my kids rifle.
Makes life so much easier especially when paired with a Revic range finder.
Makes life 10x easier even at mid range. Especially with my kids. I can dope the shot, dial and they can hold dead on.

If it's past 200 I'm dialing up.

Shooting 400 accurately takes some better gear. Not so much the elevation but having FFP vs second is a game changer for wind holds.

Guys cry they can't see a ffp reticle on the bottom end. Get glasses. I've never shot anything on min power in almost 30 years of hunting in Montana. And reticles are really good these days.