Exoskeletal 2 broadheads and my set up

[ChrisA]

Got invited last minute on an archery elk hunt so I bought new arrows and brought home some EXO2 100 gr broadheads too.

Search results didn't turn up much on rokslide or the intertube. Does anyone have experience with these?

Shooting a 70 LB Bowtech Prodigy at 29.25" draw cranked all the way down.

Had planned on Ironwill 125S with IW 25gr impact collar and Easton HIT insert, 28.75" Axis 5mm, 3 Blazers and a lighted nock, for approx 468gr TAW.

Left the archery shop with 28" Axis 340 with a 75 gr stainless outsert and the 100gr EXO2 broadheads, TAW 470gr. These shot bullets on paper.

Any thoughts on this set up?

 

[Billy Goat]

I'd think you are flirting with being weak spine, shooting broadheads will tell you over all else.

 

[Colobwhntr]

Never heard of those heads. Have any pics?

 

[fatlander]

Full disclosure, I haven’t shot these heads at game. I took a look at them in an archery shop and wasn’t at all impressed. It’s really easy to see the weak point on the design of these heads. The blade attachment point doesn’t give me any warm and fuzzy feelings.

Personally, I didn’t want to shoot them at whitetails, let alone elk. I say all of that as a guy that shoots mechanicals at everything. You’ve definitely got the specs for a mechanical on elk if your bow is tuned. If you’re dead set of mechanicals, I’d look at something like the grim reaper fatal steel or pro series 1 3/8. The QAD exodus is tough to beat in the fixed head department for the money.


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[Zac]

Turned all the way down? What does that mean? What is your poundage? Why a broadhead you have no idea about? Assuming you just let the shop choose all of this for you. You still have to broadhead tune. I believe those heads are real low profile so they should tune okay as long as your spine is appropriate. It’s probably not super durable, but should be fine as long as you don’t hit any heavy bone.

 

[Dylan Sluis]

Well first off to me you sound like your arrow is too weak of spine. But I guess if everything tunes well go with it. And second of all that is probably one of the last broadheads I would want to take elk hunting if I were you. Heck I wouldn't even shoot a whitetail with them. I have never held any but I just looked them up and I would really rethink your broadhead choice if I were you. That thing just looks like its gonna break, and at 2 1/8" cut that not really a great thing to be shooting at elk. I have heard great things about the grim reaper pro series 1 3/8" Mechanical. Or like said above the QAD Exodus is an outstanding fixed head for the price and a great size head for elk. I'd run far away from that head if I were you.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

like everyone else has said, i'd be shocked if your spine wasn't weak, and i'd need to see a lot of dead animals from that head before I shot it at anything. If you want to stick with a mech head, the original deadmeat, rage trypan, and probably the new G5 T2 heads are better choices. the exodus is always a good choice too.

 

[ChrisA]

Agreed with most of you fellas and I had intended to get 300 spine but the shop owner says I'm fine and I've killed a few whitetails with 28.75" 340s and IW 125S. I even added a nocturnal to improve dynamic spine just in case.

I went with the 340 because they worked at 28.75" and the Prodigy tuned easily. The only reason I'm considering mechanicals is because now my arrow tip is 1/2" behind front of riser.

Probably shoulda forgot about the weight up front and ran a damn 300 at 28.25" and a 100gr head to make about 465 TAW.

When I said cranked down I meant as heavy as the sumbitch can go. I usually shoot it backed out 3 turns which should help with the 340s.

 

[Dylan Sluis]

I went with the 340 because they worked at 28.75" and the Prodigy tuned easily. The only reason I'm considering mechanicals is because now my arrow tip is 1/2" behind front of riser.

When I said cranked down I meant as heavy as the sumbitch can go. I usually shoot it backed out 3 turns which should help with the 340s.

The fact your arrow is 1/2" behind the front of the riser shoudn't affect your broadhead choice. No matter what broadhead you use you should not have any finger up anywhere near your arrow that it would get hit. With your specs shooting a mechanical is fine. But the mechanical you chose is I would say is one of the worst mechanicals you could have chose for elk hunting.

And if you are comfortable shooting your bow maxed out then you should do it. You shouldn't back your bow down in poundage to help tune your weaker spine arrows better. Especially at elk, if you were deer hunting ok. But for elk you need every bit of energy and force you can get going at those animals, so backing off poundage is also one of the last things you should do if you can shoot that higher poundage comfortably. I would recommend you go on youtube and watch some elk hunting videos to see how tough these animals are, because you are acting like these things just die if you hit em. Go see what these animals can endure and then maybe you might feel like you should get the correct gear for hunting these.

Example - Iron Will Bill Shot a bull with a mechanical and the arrow lodged in it's offside shoulder. 3 weekes later they saw the bull going up a hill steeper than they could climb dragging that one leg.

So ya you literally have to force these animals to die. There is no hoping that they will. It's why people say don't stop shooting until your quiver is empty or the bull is on the ground. I'd recommend you put a little more thought and effort into getting ready, otherwise all you are gonna come back with the woods with is a horror story.

 

[ChrisA]

The fact your arrow is 1/2" behind the front of the riser shoudn't affect your broadhead choice. No matter what broadhead you use you should not have any finger up anywhere near your arrow that it would get hit. With your specs shooting a mechanical is fine. But the mechanical you chose is I would say is one of the worst mechanicals you could have chose for elk hunting.

And if you are comfortable shooting your bow maxed out then you should do it. You shouldn't back your bow down in poundage to help tune your weaker spine arrows better. Especially at elk, if you were deer hunting ok. But for elk you need every bit of energy and force you can get going at those animals, so backing off poundage is also one of the last things you should do if you can shoot that higher poundage comfortably. I would recommend you go on youtube and watch some elk hunting videos to see how tough these animals are, because you are acting like these things just die if you hit em. Go see what these animals can endure and then maybe you might feel like you should get the correct gear for hunting these.

Example - Iron Will Bill Shot a bull with a mechanical and the arrow lodged in it's offside shoulder. 3 weekes later they saw the bull going up a hill steeper than they could climb dragging that one leg.

So ya you literally have to force these animals to die. There is no hoping that they will. It's why people say don't stop shooting until your quiver is empty or the bull is on the ground. I'd recommend you put a little more thought and effort into getting ready, otherwise all you are gonna come back with the woods with is a horror story.

Ya, I get it. Have seen a rag horn soak up three 300 grain Sierra HPBT out of a 338AI, albeit not surgical shot placement. My one and only elk took three 200gr AB from a 300WSM at 455yds.

I'm not in love with the looks of those B3 EXO2 either but its all speculation, guess I had a weak moment and too much money in my wallet.

 

[ChrisA]

Well, speaking of speculation...the proof is in the pudding and the Axis 340s with 100 gr Thunderheads and Muzzy 4 blade are grouping with field points at 46 yards. Will try at 60 yds tonight.

 

[Zac]

I was confused I thought you got the little fixed blade from B3. I just hate jack knife heads in general. Anyways I think dropping your poundage down for spine is a sensible thing to do. If it tunes I wouldn’t go screwing around with starting all over again. The elk probably isn’t going to know the difference of 2 lbs of draw weight. Any of those fixed blades should work just fine. You can keep one of those mechanicals in your quiver for follow up shots, it should work just fine for that.

 

[ChrisA]

I was confused I thought you got the little fixed blade from B3. I just hate jack knife heads in general. Anyways I think dropping your poundage down for spine is a sensible thing to do. If it tunes I wouldn’t go screwing around with starting all over again. The elk probably isn’t going to know the difference of 2 lbs of draw weight. Any of those fixed blades should work just fine. You can keep one of those mechanicals in your quiver for follow up shots, it should work just fine for that.

Ya, I sure handle 65 better than 70 anyway.

 

[Zac]

Ya, I sure handle 65 better than 70 anyway.

A girl I work with shot right through a mature bull with 50 lbs, and a 26 inch draw length. She was using an axis 400 with the standard 16 grain insert and a super dull out of the package solid 100 grain 3 blade. Shot was right at 40 yards.

 

[ChrisA]

FWIW, the B3 Exoskeletal EXO2 were duller than shit out of the package.