Equipment versus practice posts and Rifle practice/shooting

Looking to buy some trekking poles and never used em before. Opinions on folding vs telescoping? And for shooting off of them seated, Quick Stix vs just looping handles and/or clamping with hand?
 
Let's try & get this thread going again. I can't read anymore about what color the font should be on the new scope or mils vs moa. The conversations on here are getting retarded. Im excited about the new scope to but holy shit

Anyway, ive posted on this forum multiple times about developing a flinch when I was younger. Ive been making a ton of progress in the last couple of months. Here is how ive been working on it with a story. One of my buddies was telling me yesterday that he he never flinches or slaps the trigger. In my opinion most people are unaware that they have this issue. We went out this morning to test it. I had him set up sitting unsupported with my 308. First round in the magazine he was live & the second was a dummy. He didnt know i did this. I told him he had 10 seconds to break 2 shots. He breaks the first & has a complete FN seizure on the second lol.

Back to my progress. Doing ball & dummy mainly with a 308 in different positions other than prone. Combined with a shit ton of dry fire & practice with my pistol has given fantastic results. Here is how I set up my ball & dummy as I usually shoot alone. Half of these dont have powder or a primer in them. I dump them on my mat & load them into my magazines without looking. If you think you dont flinch try ball & dummy offhand. I think youll be surprised
There is a difference between flinch and recoil control. Flinch is pre ignition movement of the gun, and its bad. Recoil control is just your body controlling the recoil after the gun goes off, so some of that might be acceptable in ball and dummy drills, as long as its post click not pre click movement.
Video showing post click recoil control:
Article talking about it:
https://www.gunnuts.net/2016/02/10/post-ignition-recoil-control-vs-pre-ignition-flinch/


The video below is great if you're fighting the flinchies. Chuck struggled with this problem and is/was a world class, on demand, no failure, no excuses, lose your job if you miss, stud of a pistol shooter. He has a patreon if you want to ask him questions directly and the in person classes he teaches are excellent.
Flinchies:
Training:
 
There is a difference between flinch and recoil control. Flinch is pre ignition movement of the gun, and its bad. Recoil control is just your body controlling the recoil after the gun goes off, so some of that might be acceptable in ball and dummy drills, as long as its post click not pre click movement.
Video showing post click recoil control:
Article talking about it:
https://www.gunnuts.net/2016/02/10/post-ignition-recoil-control-vs-pre-ignition-flinch/


The video below is great if you're fighting the flinchies. Chuck struggled with this problem and is/was a world class, on demand, no failure, no excuses, lose your job if you miss, stud of a pistol shooter. He has a patreon if you want to ask him questions directly and the in person classes he teaches are excellent.
Flinchies:
Training:

There's a lot of good stuff in this video. Here's a little I can add - it's handgun centric, but does apply to rifles too:

1) Dry-fire is critical in learning how to do a trigger press in a manner where the sights/dot does not move at all. If that dot moves at all, at any point in the trigger press from beginning through break through releasing the trigger forward again, you don't yet know how to do a proper trigger press. Until you do, understanding and diagnosing flinch vs recoil anticipation can be a bit challenging.

2) Both flinch and recoil anticipation are a function of mental anticipation - and both recede when you clear your mind of the mental loading. I've heard it described as the buildup of a kind of mental "static electricity" - with the flinch being its discharge. The less buildup, the less discharge. I believe there's a lot of validity to this analogy. Because what you make each shot mean can also amp this up or down dramatically. The more the trigger press is like just another mouse-click, the less anticipation and discharge there is - as opposed to "every bullet has a lawyer attached to it", or a championship attached to it, or a buck of a lifetime attached to it. Click off the meaning, and just execute like you've done thousands upon thousands of times before.

3) Grip is foundational to eliminating flinch during trigger press - whether it's coming from your trigger finger, your hand muscles, your wrists, or your forearms. There are some variants of how to grip a handgun that isolate all of this and make it more difficult to move the sights off target during that whole process. Others may be somewhat neutral, but open up opportunity for flinch/anticipation. And yet others actively induce unhelpful inputs during the process. The validity of any of these grips is really only exposed at speed and under stress or duress.

4) You need to cycle through crawl-walk-run pressures with the variants of the grips - to uncover deficiencies, then refine your grip, then try to seat it more effectively in your neural wiring with dry fire then slow-fire before cycling up again into greater speeds and duress. Dry-fire until you can't get it wrong with your sights staying still...then go apply to precision slow fire...then speed it up with faster drills of increasing shot strings. First doubles, then triples. Deficiencies will be uncovered through recoil, speed, and stress - modify your grip for less sight inconsistencies and greater overall accuracy and consistency, take it back into dry-fire, apply to slow fire again, apply to intense drills like bill drills. Repeat the cycle.

It's an ascending cycle that repeats, until your grip doesn't need to be modified, and you're pressing yourself to get similar accuracy at greater speeds. Skip a part of the cycle before then, and you set things in your wiring you'll have to unlearn later when you eventually discover the deficiency anyhow.
 
Sweet, I appreciate it. I was considering some from BD, but they get expensive. These look great.
They’re not great. There a huge difference in quality of carbon fiber, and those Cascade poles use some of the cheapest. They break incredibly easy compared to a carbon used by Black Diamond, Leki, MSR etc. You would be much better off buying aluminum BD’s than ever using those. I have poles in my hands probably more in one year than most will in their lifetime.

(Weighted backpack training, hunting, mountain running, skate skiing, backcountry Nordic touring, Nordic ice skating, Splitboarding)

Sample size matters, just as in everything we do.
 
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